~300 lumen drop-in module with the LEAST waste heat

[FNinjaP90]

Here's the situation. I need something like this or this that puts out 300lm but with the LEAST waste heat possible. My application is non-flashlight and heatsinking is rather difficult. I'm not concerned about hot-spot or beam quality whatsoever. As long as it puts out ~300lm of white light in one general direction and stays somewhat cool doing it.

Any thoughts?

 

[KevinL]

If you're seeking to minimize waste heat, then you're best off starting from the most efficient LEDs to begin with, which means the Cree XP-G. To get to about 300lu, you'd need 3.5V at 1A, or 3.5W.

Alternatively you could underdrive two XP-Gs, as LEDs are yet more efficient at lower power levels. I think two XP-Gs at 350-400mA would just manage to touch 300lu.

 

[ANDREAS FERRARI]

That P7 looks good but will probably produce a lot of heat if ran for an extended period of time.

Here is a cheaper R5 that I have been using without heat issues.

 

[tre]

The only one I know of will be the Malkoff M61 (it is about 260 Lumens). I'm not sure this is exactly what you are looking for. It has a massive heat sink to get heat away. Any drop-in at 300 lumens is going to produce massive heat - nothing you can do about it except have a good heat sink.

 

[jcw122]

The only one I know of will be the Malkoff M61 (it is about 260 Lumens). I'm not sure this is exactly what you are looking for. It has a massive heat sink to get heat away. Any drop-in at 300 lumens is going to produce massive heat - nothing you can do about it except have a good heat sink.

I may be wrong, but just because it is well sinked and because heat is well dispersed, doesn't mean that it has the least amount of wasted heat (efficiency). Although, keeping the light cooler should make it more efficient.

 

[Kestrel]

I belive that the champion in this regard would be the Moddoo XP-G 3-mode triple on 'medium'. Its output is only ~200 lumens or so, but the very low drive currents for the three leds almost has to produce less heat than a single well-driven XP-G.

 

[WadeF]

Maybe a MC-E? Have each die put out 75 lumens. Maybe easier than dealing with 3 or 4 XP-G's.

As you increase the current, efficiency will go down, and you will create more heat.

 

[alpg88]

take 26mm p7 drop in and drive it so it makes 300lm, (you will have to remove original driver, and replace it, use any driver that is 1000ma also while you have open "cup" copper led holder, find a piece of aluminium or copper rod, about 1\2in diameter, and thermoglue it in place where driver was,
i do it when i use these drop ins in my lanterns, i cut the rod to 1\2-3\4in length depending on room available in my housing.
you will not have heat issues, xpg will make more heat making 300lm cuz it's driven hard, close to limit, otoh 300lm for p7 means led is under driven, thus makes less heat. i have small p7 light at mid (pbly something close to 300lm) i can run it for hours, and it doesn't even heat up, on high otoh, in 5 min it will be really warm.

 

[Kestrel]

Re: MC-E or P7. Both excellent ideas, better than my XP-G triple idea except that it's a slightly more custom option. I like the idea of dialing in the MC-E / P7 driver to produce exactly the output you're looking for rather than using the pre-set 'medium' output of the Moddoo 3-mode triple. :thumbsup:

 

[Jash]

Cursious as to why you're looking at a P60 drop-in for a non-flashlight situation as there are probably better options available that will deliver the light output and be more practicle to set up.

Sinounion make a drop-in (Fusion 36) that makes VERY little heat but a lot of light (400 lumens) in a smooth beam. They are also very efficient for the amount of light they make.

 

[FNinjaP90]

That P7 looks good but will probably produce a lot of heat if ran for an extended period of time.

Here is a cheaper R5 that I have been using without heat issues.

Ooh I like that R5.

So the driver on that takes in 4-18V. Does it attempt to regulate the output by increasing/decreasing current, or does the brightness vary depending on the voltage input?

I want to build a custom high-end headphone amp. However, I want it to be unlike any other by making the chassis a tinted acrylic pyramid and I want to stick this LED shooting out the top with a lead crystal topping piece a la the Luxor hotel.

I think I want to put a single-fan water cooling loop in it now. Less heatsink concerns now. There's already a 9V and 15V transformer in there, so I'd like to hook up this LED in parallel with the component that one of those transformers powers, without an extra potentiometer in series if possible.

 

[Chicago X]

I want to build a custom high-end headphone amp. However, I want it to be unlike any other by making the chassis a tinted acrylic pyramid and I want to stick this LED shooting out the top with a lead crystal topping piece a la the Luxor hotel.

If you want that narrow beam, you might do well to look at an aspheric-lens flashlight.

Check the budget sites like DX for C78 model LED. It is around ten bucks, and very bright on 14500 battery.

Your project looks very cool, BTW. :goodjob:

 

[Notsure Fire]

Malkoff - a good bet.