3D MagLite LED Mod - recommendations please

[UnknownVT]

Please recommend an inexpensive and effective LED mod for the 3D MagLite?

I'm looking for at least equal brightness and similar throw.

I did like the looks of the Diamond regulated 1watt LS SE replacement bulb -
BUT they want $10 shipping! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Thanks,

 

[UncleFester]

Your best bet is an O-sink from yeasumofo, TxxK or TxxL Lux 3 and direct drive. Works great with either alkalines or nimh. Parts and shipping will be about $30 plus your host.
I personally DON'T like the beam the side emmiter makes in a Muglite.
3rd_shift is selling these lights turn key. Ij you're not into doing your own work, this is the way to go.

 

[mykall]

[ QUOTE ]
UncleFester said:
Your best bet is an O-sink from yeasumofo, TxxK or TxxL Lux 3 and direct drive. W


[/ QUOTE ]

How would these compare to the Everled?

Thanks
MB

 

[3rd_shift]

It's not even a fair comparison between an everled and a 3 watt led as far as performance goes.
Especially when an SX1K emitter on an Osink is getting pushed hard and bright by nimh D cells. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[UnknownVT]

[ QUOTE ]
UncleFester said:
Your best bet is an O-sink from yeasumofo, TxxK or TxxL Lux 3 and direct drive.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you very much for that recommendation - sounds good.

For clarity, please bear with my very novice questions -

1) The O-Sink takes a BARE Luxeon emitter? (ie: not a star)

2) How is the emitter fitted to the O-Sink?

3) How is the emitter/O-Sink then fitted to the MagLite assembly?

4) Anything else that I (a novice) should be aware of?

or please point me to a reference on how to do this.

Sorry for such basic simple questions -
I've never done this before.

Thank you,

 

[Pajamas]

Vincent,

I'm the same boat as you...check out this website
Space Needle Mod Instructions although it talks about using a Mag C body with CR123 batts, you could do the same with Mag D and normal D alkies.

As for your questions:
1. Yes, emitter only, no star needed.
2. Use thermal epoxy.
3. See the link above.
4. See the link above.

One question I did have and haven't really found an answer for is:
There are so many different Mag C/D mods, yet no one place that compares them in terms of brightness, throw, cost, etc. If anyone has a link to someplace that does this, let me know.

HTH!

 

[GarageBoy]

Lemme tell you this, soldering wires to the center contact of a Mag swtich is a B****, even if you break off the tower, worse, if you don't. If you get a heat sink/LED pre made for you from 3rd shift, request that he doesn't put the wires to it. (easier to solder the wires to the emitter alone, than to solder the wires attached to a big heavy thing into a tiny space.) I ended up soldering my own wires to the switch and the wires he put on to mine

 

[UnknownVT]

[ QUOTE ]
Pajamas said:I'm the same boat as you...check out this website Space Needle Mod Instructions although it talks about using a Mag C body with CR123 batts, you could do the same with Mag D and normal D alkies.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you Pajamas for your help, much appreciated.

That link was very useful and comprehensive - gives me confidence to tackle the task -

Although as GarageBoy pointed out soldering the wire/lead in the center switch contact may be a bit tricky. I guess if done in the order of MR Bulk's Space Needle Build Instructions - one wouldn't be attempting to solder wires to the switch contacts while the wires are attached to the emitter/heatsink combination.

Just checking - is the light still focussable with this O-Sink LuxIII mod to get flood or spot?

Thanks guys - any other recommendation of a not too expensive drop-in or bulb replacement for a 3D Mag that might be comparable in performance?



Thanks,

 

[pedalinbob]

There are a few drop-ins available. You could check Quickbeam's site for more info.

I mod the big mags a little differently.

I solder the negative lead to the part that snugs the bulb into the socket. You just file a notch on the upper rim, and it solders easily.

Next, I take a chunk of dowel and drill a hole through it...Thread a wire through...ball some of the bare wire and make a solder blob. The blob will contact the center (+) contact. It is essentially a dummy bulb. you can use epoxy (I use JB weld) to hold the wire firmly in place.

Now you have a + and - wire ready for action.

Run the + and - wires through holes drilled in the heatsink. Place the heatsink into the tube (it will push the "fake" bulb assembly down a bit) Solder and enjoy.

You can direct drive a luxIII, and get a VERY bright light. Choose your own reflector or optic.

Bob

 

[GarageBoy]

I tried following Mr Bulk's instructions, but I couldn't get the swtich back in place after I made the connection there

 

[modamag]

GarageBoy, you only connect the switch to the luxeon after the switch is inside the Mag host. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[GarageBoy]

Modamag, WHAT? (I brought a sink with the lux and the wires attached, no way of getting it off as the wires them selves were expoxied and isolated)
In Mr Bulk's instructions, he wired the lead to the lux from the metal contact under the switch. How does the wire run back up through the switch through the hole?

 

[modamag]

GarageBoy, if you bought the sink & lux from me then there should be a "male" bi-pin (rev.1) or connector (rev.2,current) that comes with it.

For a SN2 mod, you would need to make a connection to the negative (metal contact on the opposite end of the button), and a connection to the positive (inside the switch itself) to the female bi-pin or connector.

Reinstall the modified switch with the female pins/connector pointing out the front.

Connect your epoxied/mounted luxeon. Apply some thermal grease (artic silver).

And fire it off.

Here's a picture of what it looks like from my coreswap program. NO SOLDERING REQUIRED!

 

[wquiles]

Cool pictures!

Is the lightly colore stuff around the emiter glow paint?

Will

 

[Nitroz]

Most likely glow powder set in epoxy or glow powder added to clear finger nail polish and painted on.

 

[GarageBoy]

Mine came from 3rd Shift. Can you show me a pic of how the positive wire is soldered to the swtich assembly/base? Negative to the copper strip was easy enough, though I cut too much off

 

[gpk]

Soldering to the center mag contact (and other hard to solder to parts) is a lot easier if you coat it with a tiny bit of rosin flux to it first...least it was for me.

gpk

 

[GarageBoy]

Thanks. I guess the easiest is still the way I do it. I hope I don't screw up a LuxV