3P/Clones, I get and I don't!

sawlight

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
617
After losing my Novatac 120P I wanted to try and build something cheap to tide me over until I can get a new HDS.
I found a Solarforce L2 body, single cell, and picked it up. I've built it up with parts I have now, cannibalizing other lights waiting for the rest to show tomorrow.
I wanted to share some initial thoughts on it.
In it's original state, this must have been a pretty dismal light, but with the drop ins around now the concept really is appealing. But man is it BIG! It's a LOT bigger together than the sum of the parts would make you think.
It fits the hand, at least mine, PERFECTLY! Nice grip, nice size, nice balance, really is good!
But it fits in my pocket about as well as a snub nose revolver! Maybe not that big, but sure is close! Not the "pocketable" light I was hoping for.
Right now I have the Lumens factory 250l "select tint" drop in in it, I'm waiting for the P4 drop in (Solarforce from Lighthound) to see what that does to it. For the size, this thing can be a FLAME THROWER! I've no idea what run times will be, I doubt that good with an RCR123.
I've asked in another thread about multi-mode drop ins working with this setup with no response, so I take it they don't!
For a pocket light, I think I'd look at other options.
For an LEO, I'd be happy as a clam to have one of these hot rods on my duty belt!
For a home owner, this will make a great nightstand light.
I can also see it fitting well, or decently well, as limited use weapon light.
Neat little lights, lots of options, just kinda sucks it doesn't fit my needs.
 
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.... the P7 drop in (Solarforce from Lighthound) ....

I could not find it on the website, can you leave a link plz.

I agree, a "6p" sized light is not pocketable, not comfortably any way.
 
Yes the Solarforce L2M is HUGE for just a single 16340 cell. Its big enough to house a 17500 cell, if you remove the B+ spring from the drop in.
 
You say that as if it is larger than the 3P, or did I misunderstand?

I knew it would be bigger, but I was really shocked that it's that large together!

Interesting about the 17500, might improve run times a little, good information, thank you!
 
The Solarforce L2 tailcaps are longer than they need to be. If you substitute a Z41 the light will be a bit shorter. Still, they're not very pocketable. I have a 3P size light that I assembled using an LU60 and it's chunky. I made it to be as small as possible within the form factor and still use a single CR123a battery. It's smaller than your typical 3P or L2M. A SureFire E1B is a lot smaller than this Frankenstein both in length and in diameter. A Quark MiNi 123 is even smaller still than the E1B, again, both in length and in diameter. The MiNi 123 is about as large of a light as I would want to carry in a front pants pocket. Too bad 4Sevens won't make this one available in a clicky.
 
I got the rest of the parts today, the P4 dropin is about the same tint and brightness as the LF "select tint" bulb. A whitish-blueish color, it's ok, certainly for the price, but no big deal.
The normal Solarforce bezel, fine as it is, but the "striker" part is every bit of 1/4" longer than a 6P bezel! It didn't help my situation at all:oops:
Then the pocket clip, on a two cell body, this thing would be pretty good, on the single cell body, not so much! The end of it rests on the hex part of the bezel, once you do get it to hook over anything, forget about getting it off anytime soon! You really have to tweak on it to get it unhooked the way it is. Nicely made, but it sticks off of the body a lot more than I care for. It's again almost 1/4" off the body of the light in this configuration.
Good quality parts mind you, I was impressed with that, just not what I was hoping for in this setup. I'm hoping someone else will learn from some of my mistakes:D
 
You say that as if it is larger than the 3P, or did I misunderstand?
I am not sure how the L2M length compares with the 3P, its definitely longer, but I am not sure by how much. Its been a while since I have used/held a 3P.

Interesting about the 17500, might improve run times a little, good information, thank you!
17500 run times will ~double since the 17500 capacity is at least 2x that of a 16340 cell. I dont think the L2M would fit a protected 17500, but I did try mine with An unprotected cell and it fit fine.
 
Thanks Kramer, I thought they were supposed to be about the same, learning lots of new things now!

Garageboy: I know about the E1, but the idea of cheap drop ins, and a decently cheap light were what encouraged this project. With a little research, of course after buying some parts, I've found sources for the hosts and can build them for $25 or more. Depends on the drop in used. It was cheap enough to give it a try IMO. I am also increasingly fascinated with what can be done with a single cell light and wanted to see what I could put out the front for cheap. This thing is pretty wicked for no more than it would cost to build it!
When all is said and done I'll probably give it to my neighbor so he has a good nightstand light when he gets a firearm, it's not going to waste!

Being a typical flashaholic, I'll nut around spending at least as much money trying things that wont work for me before I spend the right money and get the right light lovecpf
 
If you really want a small good light that you can somewhat Lego, get the items below. All the items below can be found on either candlepowerforums.com or cpfmarketplace.com.

The nailbender drop-in is going to be brighter than the Kuku E series drop-in.



Vital Gear FB1 (this is a single cell body, CR123).
Surefire E series head

Surefire E series head

Kuku E series 2 mode XPG tower module that runs off one CR123 cell.

or

Vital Gear FB1 or Vital Gear FB2 (2xCR123 body)

E to C series adapter

Surefire 6P head

nailbender XPG 3 mode drop-in that works off 3-6V
 
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If you really want a small good light that you can somewhat Lego, get the items below. All the items below can be found on either candlepowerforums.com or cpfmarketplace.com.

The nailbender drop-in is going to be brighter than the Kuku E series drop-in.



Vital Gear FB1 (this is a single cell body, CR123).
Surefire E series head

Surefire E series head

Kuku E series 2 mode XPG tower module that runs off one CR123 cell.

or

Vital Gear FB1 or Vital Gear FB2 (2xCR123 body)

E to C series adapter

Surefire 6P head

nailbender XPG 3 mode drop-in that works off 3-6V

Decent suggestions, but not the "budget" I was really working for.
The Kulu is $65, the FB1 is $30, then average $30 for a used E1 head. That's a $125 light.

The E to C adapter is $30, the FB1 body is $30 and the nailbender is around $60, the $8 for a P60 head. $120ish light again.

All within the realm of buying a replacement HDS, which is what I'm after in the long run.
This was just a "stop gap" experiment I wanted to try out. "How much of a "pocket rocket" could I build for a reasonable cost, and would I like it?"
I can build it for around $30, anyone can for that matter, it's wicked bright and depending how much you want to spend for a dropin, it can get crazy bright!
It's a neat little "pocket rocket" with unimaginable choices and options that can be changed on a whim for a low cost. Unlike the E series lights, the incan bulbs cost all most as much as this build, and the LED's are VERY pricey and have been hard to come by.
For a grab and go, this thing is pretty slick, I'll have it in my pocket Halloween night honestly. For a defensive light, I think it's pretty slick.
But for an EDC it's as long and bigger around than my E2E, with just a single cell.
As I said, this was just an experiment and I thought it would be fun to share what I've learned as I went along.
 
I know it is not a cheap option but the Malkoff VME 1 x CR123 with a M31 is IMHO a great 240 lumen light and only 2.8 inches long approx!!

vme011.jpg


MD2, Ra Clicky & the little fella!!
vme010.jpg
 
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