#4 FOURSEVENS Quark Smart QSL !

[ronniepudding]

Also, it will only eat unprotected cells. Protected cells are too long.

I think there is some variability in different samples of the QSL working with different length batteries. I found that +\- ~0.5mm can make a difference in whether the [cell + plunger] length is too long to allow the tailcap to be tightened down, or (on the other extreme) whether the [cell + plunger] length is too short to reach the switch in the head.

I wanted to use protected RCR123, so I shortened the length of the plunger slightly using some sandpaper. The price is I can't use primary CR123 with that tailcap any more.

 

[kalel332]

What kind of batteries can be used with this light?

 

[ronniepudding]

What kind of batteries can be used with this light?

Primary CR123A seems to work best in most samples, and unprotected 16340/RCR123 will work too provided the length of the battery is short enough. Or you can shorten the tailcap plunger by ~.5mm and use longer 16340 cells exclusively. There's a lot of discussion on this subject earlier in the thread. Basically the length of the battery is a critical factor in determining the 'action' of the Tailcap button, and cells that are too long can prevent the Tailcap from being tightened down all the way. Some folks have used the QSL with the Tailcap slightly loosened to accommodate longer cells, but I found that arrangement caused an intermittent problem with my light losing electrical connection briefly while actuating the Tailcap button, which caused the light to crash/reset.

 

[kalel332]

Primary CR123A seems to work best in most samples, and unprotected 16340/RCR123 will work too provided the length of the battery is short enough. Or you can shorten the tailcap plunger by ~.5mm and use longer 16340 cells exclusively. There's a lot of discussion on this subject earlier in the thread. Basically the length of the battery is a critical factor in determining the 'action' of the Tailcap button, and cells that are too long can prevent the Tailcap from being tightened down all the way. Some folks have used the QSL with the Tailcap slightly loosened to accommodate longer cells, but I found that arrangement caused an intermittent problem with my light losing electrical connection briefly while actuating the Tailcap button, which caused the light to crash/reset.

thanks, can't wait to get mine to test it, I was trying to look on the thread, but has become pretty long with 800 pages.

 

[hiuintahs]

Guys, I got my QSL-X in the mail today and have been playing with it for hours. There was not much of a manual to go by. So I made an attempt to put one together. I do not have an I-phone or way to program it with Bluetooth but it looks as though you can accomplish everything without it. If anyone would like the Word document to this so as to get better formatting send me a PM with email and I'll send it to you. Also if I've made any mistakes let me know so I can fix it. I know there is a way to check battery life which I think is 3 clicks from off but the blinks didn't make sense with my batteries voltage. Sorry if I have plagiarized anyone's prior comments. I did have to rely on what information I could find to be able to put all this together in one source. Hope this is helpful to those that don't have a phone connection.


Quark Smart QSL-X Operating Instructions for Non Bluetooth Users

The Quark Smart QSL-X has two switches from which the functionality and operation of the flashlight is derived.........an electronic tactile side switch and a mechanical momentary tail cap switch. The way these switches behave in controlling and operating the Quark Smart is dependent on which user interface (Pro, Tactical or Infinite) and which Mode Table has been selected.

Side Switch Basic Operation

From Off:
A) A quick press and release of the side switch turns the Quark Smart on.
B) Press and Hold - The Quark Smart goes into moonlight mode and will continue to ramp up in brightness (a total of 8 steps) until you release the side switch.
C) 1 Tap then 1 Hold - The Quark Smart will activate in Maximum output mode. You can release the side switch once the light activates. If you continue to hold the side switch, the light will ramp down in brightness until you release the side switch.
D) 2 Taps - The Quark Smart will activate in Strobe mode.

From On:
A) 2 quick taps of the side switch advances the output to the next mode per Mode Table that has previously been programmed.
B) A quick press and release of the side switch turns the Quark Smart off.

Program a User Interface and Select a Mode Table

There are three user interfaces (UI): Pro, Tactical, and Infinite; and there are 5 different mode output tables. To enter the program mode:

From off, rapidly press the side switch five times. The side switch LED will blink five times.
Each double-click of the tail switch will go to the next UI. The number of red blinks after each double-click signifies which UI is currently selected, as follows:

1) Pro mode
2) Tactical mode
3) Infinite mode

Each single-click of the tail switch will go to the next mode table. The number of red blinks after each single-click signifies what table is currently selected. The choices are below:

1) High
2) High - Low
3) High - Strobe
4) Low - Medium - High - Strobe
5) (default) Moon - Low - Medium - High - SOS - Strobe - Beacon high - Beacon Low

To save and exit the programming, single-click the side switch (red led will blink once).


Pro Mode User Interface
The side switch performs as stated in the "Side Switch Basic Operation" description.
The output modes are per your prior selection from the Mode Table programming.
From Off:
A single click of the side switch or tail cap switch turns the Quark Smart on.
A double click of the tail cap switch advances to the next output level (per Mode Table selection) just as the double click of the side switch. There is mode memory of the last mode used when powered back on.
From On:
A single click of the side switch or the tail cap switch turns the Quark Smart off.

Tactical Mode User Interface
The side switch performs as stated in the "Side Switch Basic Operation" description.
The output modes are per your prior selection from the Mode Table programming. Mode memory is only with the side switch.

Tail cap switch is now momentary only.

To choose which output mode you want to activate when you press the tailcap switch, click the side switch to your desired mode so that it is currently selected and the Quark Smart is on. Then, triple click the side switch and turn the light off via the tailcap switch.

From On:
A single click of the side switch or tail cap switch turns the Quark Smart off

Infinite Mode User Interface
The side switch does not perform the same as stated in the "Side Switch Basic Operation" description.
The side switch and the tail cap switch perform the same operation.
From Off:
A single click of the side switch or the tail cap switch turns the Quark Smart on.
From On:
Pressing and holding the side switch or tail cap switch ramps the output until switch is released. That output is memorized and will be the level next time the Quark Smart is turned on.
A single click of the side switch or tail cap switch turns the Quark Smart off.

Brightness Measured Output Modes (lumens)
Note that lumen accuracy is approximate and measured via non-calibrated equipment. Proportionality between output modes could be considered useful.

8 Infinite Mode Steps (lumens)
Moon 0.16
0.53
2.57
Low 29
54
107
Med 156
208
High 419 (note: no infinite mode at this level....stops at 208 lumens)

 

[nnasko]

Hello all FourSevens fans.
I would like to share my solution to stop QSL auto resets and glitching when I use RCR123 protected battery. To be able to use the tail switch the tail cap should not be tightened all the way. But in this situation - there is a small amount of movement between the cap and the body, witch makes QSL to freaks out. Auto resets, freezes with red light on the side switch and so on...
The fix is very simple and since I use this spacer for about 6 months - not a single restart or freeze!
In my case - I am using a single string from a CAT5 network cable. This allows me to fully tighten the tail cap - no play, no issues at all!
Hope this helps for all ao you using RCR123 batteries.

 

[ronniepudding]

I would like to share my solution to stop QSL auto resets and glitching when I use RCR123 protected battery. To be able to use the tail switch the tail cap should not be tightened all the way. But in this situation - there is a small amount of movement between the cap and the body, witch makes QSL to freaks out. Auto resets, freezes with red light on the side switch and so on...
The fix is very simple and since I use this spacer for about 6 months - not a single restart or freeze!
In my case - I am using a single string from a CAT5 network cable. This allows me to fully tighten the tail cap - no play, no issues at all!
Hope this helps for all ao you using RCR123 batteries.

Clever solution! Just a matter of finding the right spacer to extend the overall battery tube length ever-so-slightly, while still maintaining a solid electrical connection via the tailcap threads.

I experienced similar issues while using this light with a loosened tailcap, and came to the same conclusion you did... namely that the tailcap cannot be kept in a loosened state. When you push the tailcap button (especially double-clicks for some reason), electrical contact is broken in the tailcap, causing the head to crash and sometimes reset. Since I modded my tailcap a few weeks ago, my QSL has been totally reliable, no crashes or resets.

 

[Woods Walker]

I found a new Smart Quark glitch. If you keep the light off for days it takes multiple attempts to turn the light on initially. As if something is retaining a charge. This is using Infinite mode (which is a nice UI). Have not tested any other UIs. The flashlight was disconnected from the phone for 16 days... LOL! But had fun playing with the infinite UI on the phone yesterday.

 

[Woods Walker]

Hello all FourSevens fans.
I would like to share my solution to stop QSL auto resets and glitching when I use RCR123 protected battery. To be able to use the tail switch the tail cap should not be tightened all the way. But in this situation - there is a small amount of movement between the cap and the body, witch makes QSL to freaks out. Auto resets, freezes with red light on the side switch and so on...
The fix is very simple and since I use this spacer for about 6 months - not a single restart or freeze!
In my case - I am using a single string from a CAT5 network cable. This allows me to fully tighten the tail cap - no play, no issues at all!
Hope this helps for all ao you using RCR123 batteries.

I wonder if an O-ring would do the same thing? The problem was it's impossible to keep the switch in place if backed off as the tolerances are that tight. You idea seems really good!

 

[nnasko]

Hello Woods Walker
I think an o-ring so thin will compress and the tail cap will still have this annoying play, making the reset-freeze issues. This string is hard, so I fully tighten the tailcap against it and no compression -no movement at all. This makes my QLS very reliable - I am using it in my evening-night runs as a main light. The Pro mode and tail switch functionality is EXCELLENT for such usage.

 

[subwoofer]

I'm definitely coming to this party really late. I was waiting for the android app, but that is not to be any more. So I've borrowed a work ipad and have updated the Smart's firmware to 1.29 (assuming that is the latest).

The non-app controls are really useful, so thanks to all who have added to those set of instructions.

Also, I'm pleased to see the radio can be turned off using the ten tap method, however I have found this is not 100% reliable and needs checking to ensure it has indeed been turned off. (I don't like any wireless devices I can't turn off).

This is something I might have missed, but is there a way to stop the side switch from flashing? It is definitely going to increase drain, and I want it to be properly dark.

Currently on Infinite mode. Wishing there was a 'straight to moon mode' control, as you need to go all the way through max output to get back to moon.

 

[kalel332]

Does anybody know if there is an extension to use 16650?

 

[Woods Walker]

Does anybody know if there is an extension to use 16650?

Yes and no. Check back a few pages. I used a quark 2XCR123 body and it worked with a protected Keeppower 2500 mAh however the tail cap needs to be screwed on just right as is the case with 16340. I might try the method described in the last few posts to rectify that.

 

[bluecrow76]

Guys, I got my QSL-X in the mail today and have been playing with it for hours. There was not much of a manual to go by. So I made an attempt to put one together.

Thanks for putting this information together! We bought a bunch of these lights for employees for Christmas, so I put it all in a document and made a PDF that we can send to everyone. The two links below are to the PDF file. Google Chrome will complain that the first website is unsafe, which is complete crap. <rant>They say the site redirects users to unsafe websites. I have some source code files on the site for reference, and three of the files were page redirect templates for legitimate websites, but they're all inert because they have .txt at the end of the filename.</rant> That's why I included the Dropbox link also.

Anyway, thanks!

Link to PDF on my files website (as stated above, Chrome will complain about this link):
http://files.bluecrow.net/flashlights/Foursevens_Quark_QSL-AF_User_Manual.pdf
Dropbox Link to PDF:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vupmwhjy21fecy/Foursevens Quark QSL-AF User Manual.pdf?dl=0

 

[kalel332]

Yes and no. Check back a few pages. I used a quark 2XCR123 body and it worked with a protected Keeppower 2500 mAh however the tail cap needs to be screwed on just right as is the case with 16340. I might try the method described in the last few posts to rectify that.

I guess I will have to wait until the new owner takes over now, everything on the website is sold out.

 

[Woods Walker]

I guess I will have to wait until the new owner takes over now, everything on the website is sold out.

Check the auction sites. That's how I got my 2XC123 quarks.

 

[subwoofer]

This is a great post from @hiuintahs with what could be the main reference set of instructions for the Smart lights. If @hiuintahs is happy to maintain the original post http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Smart-QSL-!&p=5161815&viewfull=1#post5161815 or perhaps it need to be reposted with updates?

Either way I have the following comments / additions for these instructions:

To disable the RF (bluetooth), rapidly tap the side switch 10 times. There is no indicator this worked, but scanning for new bluetooth devices with your phone (Android or iPhone) will confirm if it is on or off.

Comment - I'd not include 'general' operation for the side switch as it is different for each mode. Personally I'd put that into each mode with its specific control.

Infinite mode:
To ramp the output Up, press and hold either the side switch or tail switch.
To ramp the output Down (instead of up) when ON, tap and then hold the side switch or tail switch.

Power indicator? (not sure on this one yet - can anyone else confirm?):
From OFF, tap the side switch rapidly three times - the side switch flashes red once for each 10% battery remaining (so 10 flashes for 100%)

Quark Smart QSL-X Operating Instructions for Non Bluetooth Users

The Quark Smart QSL-X has two switches from which the functionality and operation of the flashlight is derived.........an electronic tactile side switch and a mechanical momentary tail cap switch. The way these switches behave in controlling and operating the Quark Smart is dependent on which user interface (Pro, Tactical or Infinite) and which Mode Table has been selected.

Side Switch Basic Operation
....

 

[subwoofer]

In part I'm going to answer my own post but it is not really an answer but an observation.

I have a QSL-X (1.29) and QS2A-X (1.31), and this time set them both to Pro with Strobe and SOS disabled. While still connected to the borrowed iPad I did the ten tap to turn off the RF. Both lights initially had the side switch lit green for about 5s, then it went out and did not flash. So I have what I wanted, no flashing side switch, but why? Is it the Pro mode, or was it the RF off while connected to the app?

Maybe Infinite mode always has a flashing side switch?

I also tried measuring some drain current readings. It looks like when the side switch goes quiet, the drain can drop to 9uA, but when flashing, even when the side switch is not lit, it draws around 4.5mA BIG difference. Strangely, the RF output being on or off didn't seem to affect the drain apart from the fact I could not get the side switch to stop flashing while I was doing these tests.

I like the fact there is programmability even without the app, but would like the RF on/off to have an indication and for there to be a specific setting to not have the side switch flashing. If you know more, please let me know?

I'm definitely coming to this party really late. I was waiting for the android app, but that is not to be any more. So I've borrowed a work ipad and have updated the Smart's firmware to 1.29 (assuming that is the latest).

The non-app controls are really useful, so thanks to all who have added to those set of instructions.

Also, I'm pleased to see the radio can be turned off using the ten tap method, however I have found this is not 100% reliable and needs checking to ensure it has indeed been turned off. (I don't like any wireless devices I can't turn off).

This is something I might have missed, but is there a way to stop the side switch from flashing? It is definitely going to increase drain, and I want it to be properly dark.

Currently on Infinite mode. Wishing there was a 'straight to moon mode' control, as you need to go all the way through max output to get back to moon.

 

[ronniepudding]

Power indicator? (not sure on this one yet - can anyone else confirm?):
From OFF, tap the side switch rapidly three times - the side switch flashes red once for each 10% battery remaining (so 10 flashes for 100%)

Correct.

To stop the side switch from illuminating after the light is turned off, go into advanced options (tap the clock icon from the UI screen) and turn off the nightlight feature. Interesting that it draws that much power... I'd be curious to know if disabling nightlight successfully drops the drain down to 9uA.

 

[subwoofer]

To stop the side switch from illuminating after the light is turned off, go into advanced options (tap the clock icon from the UI screen) and turn off the nightlight feature. Interesting that it draws that much power... I'd be curious to know if disabling nightlight successfully drops the drain down to 9uA.

Also hoping there is a way to do this without the app. 'borrowing' an apple device is awkward for me.