[4K Review] EMISAR D4V2 - 4300 LUMENS - versus Lumintop FW3A!

ChrisGarrett

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Is it really 4300 lumens with SONY VTC5D?


Great video until the 8:30 mark, where you went “full retard. You’re never supposed to go full retard.”

I’ve never wanted the FW3A, but I own the D4, D1, D1S and the D4V2.

In my opinion, they’re the best lights out the for their features, options and price and it’s not even close, if you ask me.

Chris
 

jon_slider

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... In my opinion, they’re the best lights out the for their features, options and price and it’s not even close, if you ask me.

Chris

full retard.. lol... sppppoooookie

what do you see as some of the compare and contrast between fw3a and d4?

I dont own either, I played with a D4 briefly, enough to learn the anduril UI, which I respect
though I felt the ramping was a bit quick,, I tended to overshoot and then come back down.. it was a bit more clicking than I want to have to live with on a day to day basis. Im spoiled by my magnetic rotary dial UI

but Im curious, since the UI is the same whats left are hardware differences
and maybe the flashy aux boards, but I think both lights have that option now.. no?

button location
fw3a on the tail, d4 on the side of the head..
personally I prefer tail click, easier to find in the dark

LED number
3 for fw3a, 4 for d4
personal preference, 3 for me

beam
fw: medium flood, d4: wide3 flood

d4 wins on coverage in open areas, reverse is true when there are walls or bushes on the near periphal then the backsplash from a wider flood is not ideal.. narrow beams reach down narrow alleys, farther.. wide beams cover more lawn area, in open space flat areas.. I spend more time that are not wide open like a footbal field. Personally, I would go with the triple.

max lumens
looks like d4 wins
personally, I dont have much experience with more than 600 lumens and usually Im down well below 300 in my applications, primarily indoors and close range

tacticool use
for a grocery getter, go down the alley, fantasize spotting bad guys, I would say a rear clicky with a captive pocket clip is more "tactical"
personally, I give this one to the fw3a

clip
captive spinner, vs d4 w a clip on
I go spinner, would prefer screw on

ergonomics and aesthetic preference
I find the fw3a sleek and the d4 square and industrial
Im going with sleek

design simplicity and potential reliability
fw3a has a weird switch, there is a small part that can fall out and get lost
its operated by a metal dome, that squishes up and down, like in a lot of 2 mode 10180 lights.. I am not impressed. And theres this signal tube, another spare part to go wrong.. reminds me of the Novatac, which is famous for having signal issues as the light ages and the parts bed in.

d4m, well, its Kiss.. all the goodies are in the head.. no need for a signal wire or sleeve, nothing to fall out and get lost. And this means swapping battery tubes to 18350 is easy. The Fw3a fails to offer an 18350 opportunity..

this category has a clear winner, the D4

sublumen levels, ramping, anduril
yes, both


different people have different assumed use scenarios for their torches

there is no wrong for all reasons, each light has advantages and disadvantages, in different environments and applications

Please share the Application, Location and Intended Use of your light to help us understand your choices :). Are you at the beach, are you indoors, wide open area, of densely populated urban streets and alleys.. reading a menu, cooking bbq, nightstand duty etc
 
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StarHalo

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I guess it's inevitable that we'd eventually have interfaces with so many features that even when demoing it in a video, only ~50% of it makes sense..

Amazing feature set though, quite the showcase pocket rocket.
 

ChrisGarrett

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Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
5,652
Location
Miami, Florida
full retard.. lol... sppppoooookie

what do you see as some of the compare and contrast between fw3a and d4?

I dont own either, I played with a D4 briefly, enough to learn the anduril UI, which I respect
though I felt the ramping was a bit quick,, I tended to overshoot and then come back down.. it was a bit more clicking than I want to have to live with on a day to day basis. Im spoiled by my magnetic rotary dial UI

but Im curious, since the UI is the same whats left are hardware differences
and maybe the flashy aux boards, but I think both lights have that option now.. no?

button location
fw3a on the tail, d4 on the side of the head..
personally I prefer tail click, easier to find in the dark

LED number
3 for fw3a, 4 for d4
personal preference, 3 for me

beam
fw: medium flood, d4: wide3 flood

d4 wins on coverage in open areas, reverse is true when there are walls or bushes on the near periphal then the backsplash from a wider flood is not ideal.. narrow beams reach down narrow alleys, farther.. wide beams cover more lawn area, in open space flat areas.. I spend more time that are not wide open like a footbal field. Personally, I would go with the triple.

max lumens
looks like d4 wins
personally, I dont have much experience with more than 600 lumens and usually Im down well below 300 in my applications, primarily indoors and close range

tacticool use
for a grocery getter, go down the alley, fantasize spotting bad guys, I would say a rear clicky with a captive pocket clip is more "tactical"
personally, I give this one to the fw3a

clip
captive spinner, vs d4 w a clip on
I go spinner, would prefer screw on

ergonomics and aesthetic preference
I find the fw3a sleek and the d4 square and industrial
Im going with sleek

design simplicity and potential reliability
fw3a has a weird switch, there is a small part that can fall out and get lost
its operated by a metal dome, that squishes up and down, like in a lot of 2 mode 10180 lights.. I am not impressed. And theres this signal tube, another spare part to go wrong.. reminds me of the Novatac, which is famous for having signal issues as the light ages and the parts bed in.

d4m, well, its Kiss.. all the goodies are in the head.. no need for a signal wire or sleeve, nothing to fall out and get lost. And this means swapping battery tubes to 18350 is easy. The Fw3a fails to offer an 18350 opportunity..

this category has a clear winner, the D4

sublumen levels, ramping, anduril
yes, both


different people have different assumed use scenarios for their torches

there is no wrong for all reasons, each light has advantages and disadvantages, in different environments and applications

Please share the Application, Location and Intended Use of your light to help us understand your choices :). Are you at the beach, are you indoors, wide open area, of densely populated urban streets and alleys.. reading a menu, cooking bbq, nightstand duty etc

Are asking me all of those questions, specifically?

I don’t own the FW3A, so obviously I can’t compare something that I don’t have, to those that I do have.

I like neat designs, but I’m totally content to find things dropped on the ground, using my Battery Junction freebie coin light.

Chris
 

5S8Zh5

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Does it come standard without a magnetic tail cap?

edit: found out it's an option, not standard. which is nice.
 
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Fireclaw18

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Mar 16, 2011
Messages
2,415
I have both the FW3A and Emisar D4V2. I like them both. My impressions:

- Emisar with 18650 tube feels much more secure in the hand. Knurling covers most of the body and is grippier than the much more limited knurling on the FW3A.
- Emisar has better heatsinking
- Emisar lacks the fiddly inner tube so is more likely to work out of the box.
- Emisar is heavier (with cell installed, approximately 113g for D4V2 compared to 100g for FW3A).
- Emisar is less likely to accidentally turn on in the pocket (in my experience), though both are not immune to it. The original D4 had RampingIOS firmware that was known for accidental burning holes in pockets. Fortunately, both the D4v2 and FW3A use Anduril which offers features making it relatively pocket-safe even when not locked out.
- D4v2 comes with multicolored aux bezel LEDs. FW3A comes with no aux LEDs.
- For SST20 High-CRI versions: FW3 series feature FD2 tint bin, which is considerably better (less green) than the SST20 high-CRI found in Emisars.
- Emisar is designed for handshake grip, FW3A is designed for cigar-grip. I find the handshake grip to be more secure, but that's just personal preference.
- Emisar is brighter ... not surprising since it has an extra LED. It also is at least as throwy as an FW3A with the same emitters and a Carclo 10507 narrow spot optic.
- Both lights are available in multiple variations and multiple materials. Currently, Lumintop appears to be pulling out all the stops and there appears to be more variations on the FW3A available or coming.
- Both make excellent EDC pocket rockets. Though if you want something that can sustain a halfway decent ouput for a longer period of time, you're better off reaching for a Zebralight SC600w IV Plus.
 
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KG_Tuning

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Sep 1, 2016
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Wakefield UK
I guess it's inevitable that we'd eventually have interfaces with so many features that even when demoing it in a video, only ~50% of it makes sense..

Amazing feature set though, quite the showcase pocket rocket.

It's hard to even demo 50%!!!
I feel guilty for not showing the audience how to calibrate/set temp sensors and set ramping/stepped modes and levels!!!
 

5S8Zh5

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What is the difference between these LEDs: Luminus SST-20 5000K - Neutral White and Nichia 219C 5000K 90+ CRI - Neutral White?
 

Fireclaw18

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Mar 16, 2011
Messages
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Re: Emisar D4v2 raised v. flushed ring:

I have both. The raised ring provides a protective ridge around the button and greatly reduces the chance of accidental pocket activation. The button makes it almost impossible actually. At least as much protection as any Zebralight, and possibly more. However, I did find the upper edge of the ridge to be slightly sharp. It won't cause injury or damage clothing, but it's just slightly uncomfortable to press against with a finger. I prefer my homemade raised ring (using a filed down finishing washer), which has a very comfortable rounded upper edge.

The latest version of Anduril found in my D4v2 Ti comes with "pocket-protection". If the button is held down it ramps up to max ramp, then pauses for a couple seconds and then ramps down to moonlight, then turns off and activates electronic lockout. This protects against the typical accidental pocket activation where the button is held down.

Unlike the earlier D4v1's Ramping IOS, All versions of Anduril also allow the user to manualy set the max ramp. I typically set it at just below where pocket damage might occur. That way even if the light were to turn on accidentally in the pocket, it should never get bright enough to burn through my pants. For XPL HI, I usually set the max ramp at 35 steps below max turbo. I can still access max turbo with a double-click from ON.

Re: difference in LEDS:

SST-20 5000K. I don't have this LED, but I do have the 4000K version. Compared to Nichia, the SST-20 is more intense... so you'll get a smaller brighter hotspot that throws further. It's also slightly greenish at low and intermediate power settings.

The Nichia 219C produces a very nice neutral white tint that probably isn't greenish at any power setting (at least the ones in my EDC18 weren't green even at lower power). However, total lumens is comparable to or less than SST-20, and the hotspot is much less intense, making it only suitable for close-range use.

I still prefer XPL-HI in these small hot-rods. It's not high-CRI, but the very large increase in lumens and reduced heat more than makes up for it.
 
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5S8Zh5

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Hoping for a black friday / cyber monday sale on one.

edit: Got a sand, flat ring SST-20 5000K coming from Hank.

:)
 
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