5761 in a 2D Mag? What is needed?

[IcantC]

Can someone shed some light on how to make this? I saw this from LuxLuthor
"The legendary Philips 5761 30W 6V bulb overdriven to about 7.2V Ma"ny have used this bulb in C size Mags with 2 x AW C Li-Ion cells, but it requires about 5.5A, so it is close to tripping his protection circuit. Again ideal for a regulated driver with soft start, and even the Emoli/A123 solutions. Works out to about 1400+ lumens."

I have searched and read many threads and there is no complete guide. I would like to know how to make it work in 2D and what things I need.

So far from what my research has shown
1) Metal reflector(fivemega)
2) Bipin bulb holder (fivemega)
3) 5761 bulb
4) UCL or Borofloat(plan to use BF lense)
5) Batteries(which ones for use in 2D?)
6) Is stock switch ok or will it melt?(Could not find anything on this)



Thanks!

 

[Rommul]

You might be okay with the stock switch since the resistance will take some of the bite out of the bulb.

I am in the process of building a mag 275 (Osram 64275) with a AWR hotdriver set to 7.0 volts. This bulb pulls about 6 amps and I will be using one of Kaidomain's packs in my HAIII 2D.

http://kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=3985

Now if KD ever gets off it's duff and ships out my order I would be able to tell you first hand how this works out, as of today I can't but thats the direction I am going.

 

[mdocod]

your best bet for simplicity would be a pair of A123 systems 26670 nano-phosphate cells. You can get them here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=178188&highlight=A123

the nice thing about them is they are very safe, can handle MASSIVE current no problem, can be abused heavily without problems, they discharge VERY flat ~3.3V into most loads for a near-regulated style output.

 

[jimjones3630]

2 A123 fit in 2D as well as Emoli cells. Both work with a simple tailcap mod. Emolis need voltage stepped down from 8.4vbat fresh charge to 7v or so depending on the batch of 5761's you get. JimmyM has or will have more pwm that would work, an NTC, one of AWR hotdrivers will all work.

If you look at the thread below after the first few posts may be helpful.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=172284

mag stock switch may not melt but will get fairly uncomfortable to hold unmoded.

1) Metal reflector(fivemega)
2) Bipin bulb holder (fivemega)
3) 5761 bulb
4) UCL or Borofloat(plan to use BF lense)
5) Batteries(which ones for use in 2D?)
6) Is stock switch ok or will it melt?(Could not find anything on this)



Thanks!

 

[sb_pete]

You could also use NiMh.
FM 6xAA - 2D adapter or a welded pack from someone like LuxLuthor. Be careful to let it rest though. Also, the less resistance, the more danger of insta-flashing. Using a stock switch and an FM style bi-pin adaptor, this shouldn't be a prob though. Although it will get hot to hold, this shouldn't be enough to melt the switch unless you do something like turn it on, set it down lens-down on a black table and walk away.

FM also used to make a 6x14500 adapter that was 2s3p which I would think would work, although I could be wrong here. I think the fact that it is 3p should allow the use of protected 14500's with this bulb, but I've never tried it and am not an electrical engineer so hopefully Jim, Lux, or some of the other hot-wire gurus can chime in here.

AW protected "C" cells are not currently available as you know, but should be again some time soon.:shrug:

Kai protected "D" cell packs seem like a great option, but they are as yet untested

I've never played with Emoli or A123 (not to be confused with CR123) batteries and they are relatively new on the scene. They are the technology used in new power tools. They are supposed to work great, but they do require a special charger. And as has been said, Emoli's would require some form of regulation which would up the overall cost of the light (although it would be cooler and more functional for it).

I hope that helps.
-Pete

Oh and BTW, UCL is worth the extra dollar at flashlightlens.com. Well worth it for anything above an ROP.

 

[mooman]

What brand of Nimh AA batteries can handle the amps? Runtime differences?

 

[rizky_p]

What brand of Nimh AA batteries can handle the amps? Runtime differences?

I think everyone here recommends CBP AA for high current drain. Elite 1700 seems to be a good one or Sanyo Eneloop.

 

[robm]

This thread may provide some pointers, although it is for a 2C rather than 2D (so different cells are required).

Guide to a 2C Mag 5761 w/ SoftStart (pics)

 

[jimjones3630]

Emoli cells are rechargeable with older chargers using Li Io or Li Po programs.

A123 require newer program to charge unless you know how to use a bench power supply.

$1 for an NTC regulates 2 emoli cells powering 5761.

http://www.newark.com/72J6730/passives/product.us0?sku=AMETHERM-SL12-1R010&_requestid=243717

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=177344

 

[KROMATICS]

Can six AA Eneloops handle the 5.5 Amp pull?

 

[IcantC]

This thread may provide some pointers, although it is for a 2C rather than 2D (so different cells are required).

Guide to a 2C Mag 5761 w/ SoftStart (pics)

Ok thanks for the link, just read it. Also thanks everyone for the help.

Now can I use FM's 6AA to 2D adapter with Eneleoops? Would I need a softstart driver?

 

[robm]

Now can I use FM's 6AA to 2D adapter with Eneleoops?

Yes, but you will get higher output with 'better' cells (Emoli, A123, AW'c C LiIons - currently unavailable) which do not 'sag' under load as much.

Would I need a softstart driver?

Afraid the answer is 'it depends'

If you have NOT done any resistance fixes, then you may be okay as the resistance in the light prevents the initial current surge being too high. However you are also sacrificing output (as the resistance also limits current during normal runtime).

If you have reduced the resistance (or have a naturally low resistance light ) then you may need a soft starter. Using a NTC is a very cheap way of doing this too, so I can't see a reason not too.

 

[IcantC]

Thank you very much for all the info guys.

I am not too electrical savvy so was trying to avoid using a soft start or NTC.

I figured I already have FM's 6AA to 2D adapter and reflector, so might be able to use those with Eneloops.

Hmmm not to mention not sure I would want to spend so much(after seeing the almost $80 AW soft start).

 

[medicmerlynn]

hey guys... to save starting a new thread, i'll post here... anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that i have my own ROP 2D that is actually a really beautiful light. i keep the ROP Low in for functionality and 'decent' runtimes... anyway, i wanted to know if i could keep my exact setup and trade out the ROP Low light for a bi-pin adapter and a 5761 and still be okay... that would be close to doubling visible light output but i don't know what kinda of strain it would put on the battery pack nor if the runtime would be worth mentioning. i use FM's 6AA>2D adapter and i love it. i just wanted to push something just a bit harder and brighter and came to the fact that this light was just about the brightest i could get without surgical intervention. what do yall think?

 

[LuxLuthor]

As you can see there are a number of battery combinations that will work. Some will give a bit more output than others, but even at the lower voltage range, the 6AA (Eneloops or Elite 1700AA) will give a wonderful output.

Pay attention to the voltage delivered to the bulb. Once you get a system figured out (i.e. resting NiMH, or using some type of Lithium Ion with voltage/current regulator/resistor, etc.) then you are good to go using it the same way over and over.

 

[medicmerlynn]

lux, thx for the quick reply... i just wanted to make sure the 6AAs would work - and apparently they will. i wanted to mod the 4 m*gs i have lying around. ROP 2D has been made, so 3 more. have a 4D and a 3D and a 2C i want to mod. wanted to do the 5761 with the 2C and not sure of what to do with the 4D or 3D... any ideas? was thinking an 1185 with the 3D as that seems to be a nice popular setup... and then was thinking about an original ROP with the 4D, but who knows yet...

 

[robm]

i wanted to know if i could keep my exact setup and trade out the ROP Low light for a bi-pin adapter and a 5761 and still be okay... that would be close to doubling visible light output

It is more like a tripling of output ROP LO -> 5761,

As long as you have low resistance battery pack (which you do - FM) and 'robust' cells that can provide the current (e.g. Eneloops or Elite 1700AA as LuxLuthor suggested)

 

[medicmerlynn]

robm, thx! sounds like a plan... i just can't imagine how ridiculously bright this thing is going to be. also, since i am using Eneloops, do i need to let them 'sit' after a fresh charge? if so, how long? but if i can get away with building the 5761 out of a 2D with the stuff i have already, that will save a ton of money and will just be friggin sweet...

 

[IcantC]

Thanks I guess I can try this with my current ROP Low/High setup by swapping for the holder and 5761. Then I can save up, get some better batteries.

 

[slagell]

1) Metal reflector(fivemega)
2) Bipin bulb holder (fivemega)
3) 5761 bulb
4) UCL or Borofloat(plan to use BF lense)

I am trying to assemble this similar light. I plan to use the mdocod 6AA->2D adaptor with eneloops. I can find the 5761 easy enough. I haven't looked for the borofloat lens yet. But I cannot find where to buy these fivemega parts.