5DM@G

[jimjones3630]

Hi,

Playing around with an old 5D, no D in the serial number, and discovered 4px5s 2700 Mah AA's fit. Sadly, FM's 3" head is different treads.

4p Elite 2000 4/5A wouldn't fit. It is not near the craftmanship of FM's Elephant and of course 4p 4/5A's will fit FM's with 120mm extension and 4px5s will fit with a tailcap mod.

3p 18650's will not fit. Finding a lack of established moders doing triboring and a lack of FM's excellant Elephants old 5D's is a viable host with limitations.

Jim

 

[Pellidon]

My two oldest Mag Lights are a 2 and 4 D cell units. Everything was larger then to accomodate the old carbon cells in the pre alkaline days. They also have D-ring tail caps I bought years ago at Galyan's.

If you can find one they make great hosts for the 12 AA to 3D conversions for any battery capacity.

 

[Icebreak]

Pelidon -

Good to know that. Seems like I've heard that before and thought I might find one at a yard sale.

jimjones3630 -

I guess you tried 3 parallel A cells and they didn't work? I tried them in my 1994 Mag 3D and they wouldn't quite fit.

Anyway. Good reminder that those older mags can handle more varieties of AA cells.

 

[jimjones3630]

Icebreak,

I didn't have A's around to try but I think they are 17mm diameter since the Elite 4/5 A are 16.7ish pretty sure they wouldn't fit.

D-ring tailcaps I've never seen on a maglite maybe I not old enough. 🙂

 

[jimjones3630]

Digging around some stored stuff junk I was going to get rid of and found a 3D kel-lite I think was purchased in 1971-72. Has a nice metal reflector. The bulb looks good, 6.5v. 0.7a HPR51, Hungry. I must have replaced the original bulb at some time.

4px4s fits very nicely and looks like only a slight tailcap mod needed to work.

The stock switch reads more ohms than stock mag switch but may clean up well since it is a 1/4in copper strip.

Anyone know what a good polish for metal reflectors? Don't want to remove the mirrow like finish.

Jim

 

[willrx]

As far as I know, the best thing to do with the reflector is leave it alone. Gently rinse in calm water at best.

 

[Icebreak]

It's likely that willrx is correct.

Member ABTOMAT is the resident Kel-light guru. I know he's mentioned the reflectors are aluminized steel. I don't think that can be polished but if it's bad enough you might want to try some semi-chrome. If you ruin it maybe you can get one of our builders to chrome it for you on thier next chrome run.

 

[ABTOMAT]

Most of the stock reflectors I've seen are aluminum coated, some are chrome. On the aluminum ones any attempt to polish it will probably ruin the coating. At that point you're looking at getting it nickeled or something like that. Clean with warm water and soap.

Don't do any mods that can't be reversed. Zero parts are available and there is some collecting interest.

 

[jimjones3630]

Thanks for the info.

I just cleaned it up, progolded contacts, 6 C cells fit, put ROP LO in and then there was light. Have a short somewhere since turned the light off and the body continued to get hot.

Haven't had chance to go over it and find the short. Probably in the swith.

Jim

 

[ABTOMAT]

Is this is a black plastic slide, or the metal hump with a red signal button? The hump switches tend to wear through insulation on the copper contact as it goes through the threaded portion.

The plastic slide switches are too simply to short usually, but there's a chance something's out of alignment.

 

[jimjones3630]

Abtomat, Sorry I lost track of this thread.

The kel switch is the metal hump with red signal button. And yes it did wear through the insulation at that point.
I tried a wrap of elecrical tape as a temp fix. Not sure what to use for the permanent fix. Maybe some hard drying goop.

Jim

Is this is a black plastic slide, or the metal hump with a red signal button? The hump switches tend to wear through insulation on the copper contact as it goes through the threaded portion.

The plastic slide switches are too simply to short usually, but there's a chance something's out of alignment.