A Controversial Possibly Incendiary Point Of View

[tatasal]

Oh well, just wait until someone includes the word "Tacticool" again!

 

[Beamhead]

I prefer rotary lights with a tail clicky. My experience with the high parasitic drain of the Niteye and another Jetbeam dictate so. My SWM's with clicky tail caps have been flawless. I have 2 of the 2020 RRT01's and they fit the bill for me.
How are they "rapid response" let alone "tactical"?

 

[jon_slider]

parasitic drain

imo, concern about parasitic drain is exaggerated FUD..

Standby Drain

For the RRT-01, the standby current fluctuated between ~50-65uA on CR123A (~55uA average). It was a little lower on 1xRCR, at ~30uA. For a typical 1400mAh CR123A and 750mAh RCR, this would translate into ~2.9 years before a fresh cell would be fully discharged, in both cases. This is not a concern, but you can always twist the head slightly to physically lock-out the light.

once I learned RRT-01 parasitic drain takes years..
it became a non issue for me.
The drain is the same for all 3 RRT-01 models, 2012, 2019, and 2020

 

[Beamhead]

imo, concern about parasitic drain is exaggerated FUD..



once I learned RRT-01 parasitic drain takes years..
it became a non issue for me.
The drain is the same for all 3 RRT-01 models, 2012, 2019, and 2020

I was speaking of the Niteye and other Jetbeam and for the record I measured 33ma myself which proves out my cells dying in days.

 

[jon_slider]

the Niteye and other Jetbeam and for the record I measured 33ma myself which proves out my cells dying in days.

thanks for sharing your experiences

Im not sure which Niteye and "other" Jetbeam you mean,

Sounds like youre getting a very different measurement than selfbuilt, for the 2012 Jetbeam RRT-01.
(same driver as Niteye Eye10)

which light did you measure at 33ma? (thats not "normal" for an RRT-01)
sorry to hear,
makes sense it kills cells in days..

fwiw, we can still buy replacement 2019 and 2020 RRT-01 drivers... from info at jetbeamlight dot com

It can definitely happen, that a driver will have unusually high parasitic drain
Unfortunately I own a Nitecore D20 that kills AA cells in 3 days.. thats just Wrong!
and sadly, for that one, I cannot buy a replacement driver

I can unscrew the head, but, if I forget, I kill the batteries..
have not decided yet, whether to put it in the garbage..

I have other Nitecore Piston Drive lights, and they dont kill batteries in 3 days.. so I know my D20 is not normal.

 

[Beamhead]

Both the niteye EYE10 TIC and the TCR20 read the exact 33-34ma. The TCR 20 had the weird end switch so it was able to be locked out, the EYE10 I had to shorten the spring so it could be physically locked out.
That is why I like the 2020 RRT-01's.

 

[jon_slider]

Both the niteye EYE10 TIC and the TCR20 read the exact 33-34ma

I cant explain why these three other people are getting different data than you:
the 2012 has a drain of 30uA
the 2019 has a drain of 27uA
the 2020 has a drain of 28uA

I have not had any parasitic drain issues with any of my RRT-01's TCR-1s nor Eye10, nor Eye10 TiC

what I have experienced, is sudden darkness when using a protected battery

this happens because on a low battery, it is possible to trip protection by turning the dial to maximum

for this reason I use UnProtected batteries in my stepless rotaries. They just get dimmer, and wont reach as high a maximum, as voltage drops.. this becomes noticeable to me, so I recharge.. but Im never suddenly in the dark, from tripping a protection fuse.

 

[knucklegary]

Asked and answered.. Thanks Jon!

 

[nightshade]

I've modded and repaired a few dozen of the 2012 version RRTO1. It's a very time proven and robust design. All parts including o-rings, lenses, magnets, retention spring and ball,etc.are (relatively)easily sourced. It allow several led dies and footprints to be used. The only part I hand make is the battery spring.
Driver repair, even replacement , thanks to JB parts department, are possible. I've only experienced one with a abnormal parasitic drain problem and that was due to a resistor mod gone wrong with solder trace damage.
At some point I need to check out the new offering.

 

[jon_slider]

At some point I need to check out the new offering.

you may find the 2020 driver interesting, it adds thermal step down to the 2019 driver

If you try one of the new models, you may also enjoy the 18650 extensions, they fit the 2019 and 2020 hosts.

 

[nightshade]

you may find the 2020 driver interesting, it adds thermal step down to the 2019 driver

If you try one of the new models, you may also enjoy the 18650 extensions, they fit the 2019 and 2020 hosts.

Thank you , does the 2019 and/or 2020 driver fit the 2012 version? I can see from the JB site that external diameter is larger. Just curious if they kept the driver dimensions the same.

 

[jon_slider]

Thank you , does the 2019 and/or 2020 driver fit the 2012 version

yes they are the same size and completely interchangeable.


this outstanding TCR-1 build by moderator007 has a swapped in 2019 driver, for the added strobe:

here are some other differences between the drivers

The stock resistor in the 2019 driver is .050 ohms, the original RRT-01 and TCR-1 driver used a .100 ohm resistor. The V10R used a .150 ohm resistor

 

[nightshade]

Excellent! 👍 Thanks Jon!

 

[bykfixer]

The original tactical flashlight meant you could signal or morse code with it. A sliding switch would be used. Later the sliding switch had a half-way point with a button to push or hold for momentary. Later filters were added to reduce the distance a light could be seen from. We're talking world war 2 technology when those were added. Then water tight was added. Again world war 2 technology where rubber gaskets were sandwiched in between parts. Later JustRite incorparated a twisty switch during the Korea period onto their aviator light that was a 2aa with ability to place a filter over the bulb.

SureFire and Streamlight set the stage with a 6P and Scorpion that could literally withstand being run over by a tank. The clicky was introduced but still retained the ability to signal or morse code. It's when the LED light and micro-chips got involved when the tacticool was presented. Now things are all fuzzy. But the main thing is that the light is durable. If it can spell out "eat at Joes" but can't withstand being dropped in a puddle it's not a good light for tactical purposes.

Actually, having a dial to raise and lower output with a button for instant full power is a pretty 'tactical' idea.

 

[Katherine Alicia]

The original tactical flashlight meant you could signal or morse code with it. A sliding switch would be used. Later the sliding switch had a half-way point with a button to push or hold for momentary.

I have about a dozen old lights (in pristine comdition) that fit that bill exactly. I`m one of the cool kids now!
that "tactical" button for me meant being able to turn off my lights at night instantly without a *click* sound that would give away my under-blankets reading activities.

 

[orbital]

+

pictures

 

[Katherine Alicia]

+

pictures

that`s a fair ask I guess, here`s some from in the house, I think there`s a couple more in the workshop too.

 

[gunga]

Nice classic collection!

 

[Katherine Alicia]

Thanks, those are just the ones with the momentary "Tactical" button, I have quite a few other ones without that too. all those are working incan lights BTW each with their own batteries and ready to work at any time

 

[euroken]

"BTW each with their own batteries and ready to work at any time "

Now here is a true tactical preparedness :twothumbs