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A few questions regarding an LS20

ma tumba

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Oct 7, 2013
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1,344
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Russia
Good afternoon CPF,

Following the great js' post on the LS20 as the best EDC light I got one. After about 6 months of regular use I think that js was about right, but there are a few issues that still bug me and it is time to clarify.

1. I don't like cool tints, and the one of my LS20 is no exception. I am aware of some fantastic mods but I just wanted to avoid any modification of the light which I like so much in its stock form. So I got a carnet of lee film filters and I will eventually pick one that modifies the original tint to my preference. The point is that I need to insert a round piece of the film behind the glass - between the glass and the ring with the 3 LEDs. Now the question is: has anyone had the experience of disassembling and reassembling the head so this goal could be reached without compromising the light?

2. I love the PD mechanism and would never use a clicky version. But the piston seems somewhat sticky. After I press it to the point when the flood mode is activated and then release it, it stays too deep inside. Regardless how far the head has been unscrewed. Is this a feature or has the spring become too weak, or there is another reason?

Thanks,
Anton
 

maxspeeds

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Joined
Jan 24, 2007
Messages
2,175
Location
Oahu, Hawaii
Hi Anton,

The LS20 is a great light! Here are my responses to your questions:

1)Removing the glass window from the LS20 is fairly straight forward. It is being retained by two O-rings (one below it and one above it). You only need to remove the exterior one that is above it. To do this, use a needle and slowly pull the o-ring out of it's retaining groove by pricking it and pulling up. Make sure you mark the exterior side of the glass with painter's tape or something that can be easily removed as you want to ensure you re-install the glass in the same orientation (due to the underside of the glass' AR coating).

2) The o-ring on the piston is probably causing the friction you are experiencing. One thing to try is to lube the o-ring and wrap Teflon tape on the open end of the piston. This reduces friction substantially.

Have fun!
Joel
 

mcorp

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
375
Location
Singapore
Hey Anton,

1) Every time I see a modded LS20, I itch to send mine for modding but the stock look is far too nice to disturb it for now. :devil: Indeed removing the glass window is as straightforward as Joel has mentioned :)

2) I had the same issue also and had initially thought that the springs had weakened. But swapping in a new oring and lubing up with Christo Lube MCG 111 (what Don uses), solved the "sticky" issue. It is also recommended to use silicone orings and not EPDM ones for the piston oring.
Hope your fix is as easy as mine.
Here is the list of oring sizes if you happen to need them :grin2:

Cheers
Matthew
 

ma tumba

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Oct 7, 2013
Messages
1,344
Location
Russia
Hi Joel, Matthew,

Thanks a lot for your suggestions! It is really great that I don't have to mess with the head. Every time when I attempted any kind of surgery on any light, the light went back to the workshop in critical condition :)

Now, I think that we have just local brands of lubricants, so what you guys suggested is a silicon type lube, right? Or a teflon type would do as well?

And BTW, where do you guys normally order things like o-rings and rubber/silicon tail caps in the US? Probably I'll have to order from the US as I have failed to find a good source locally.

Thanks again,
Anton
 

tobrien

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Dec 16, 2005
Messages
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Georgia Highway 441
Hi Joel, Matthew,

Thanks a lot for your suggestions! It is really great that I don't have to mess with the head. Every time when I attempted any kind of surgery on any light, the light went back to the workshop in critical condition :)

Now, I think that we have just local brands of lubricants, so what you guys suggested is a silicon type lube, right? Or a teflon type would do as well?

And BTW, where do you guys normally order things like o-rings and rubber/silicon tail caps in the US? Probably I'll have to order from the US as I have failed to find a good source locally.

Thanks again,
Anton

I love http://www.theoringstore.com/ for O-rings and I recently bought some MCG111 in a small 5g squeeze tube for $7 from eBay
 

ma tumba

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Oct 7, 2013
Messages
1,344
Location
Russia
OK, I used your great hint and easily removed the front glass. Then I tried a few Lee filters as well as some combinations of the filters following the idea I found in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?320811-Changing-LED-Tint-With-Filters.

The most appropriate line of filters is called C.T. Straw, their original purpose is to warm daylight to some specific CCTs of Tungsten light. For mw, the best one is filter #443 i.e. quarter ct straw which warms incident light by 1400K. The tints past the filter is still on the cool side, significantly cooler than eg nichia 083, but I would not go further, for stronger filters start adding noticeable unnatural coloring. To make sure that I can really understand the modified tints I cut circles out of each filter, incerted them in place of the glass window and used each "mod" for awhile both in bright daylight and in the evening, either in or outdoors.

The specs of the filters are here, for reference. http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html#
I should note that these filter carnets are normally distributed for free as samples. On the side note, these filters are not flammable and highly resistant to heat.

Thanks again guys, owing to your help, this light is now much more useable for me than before.
 

ma tumba

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Oct 7, 2013
Messages
1,344
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Update: I stepped up to filter #442, that is half ct straw. Now my lunasol has one of the most pleasing tint I have had in my lights. Close to the 4000K sst p4, used in the older hds.

Now when I have this great tint, the light becomes my only EDC, no more EDC rotation whatsoever.
 

RedLED

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Oct 5, 2006
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Palm Springs, CA, Beverly Hills, CA, Washington, D
I would advise you to use 1/4 Orange CTO gel. That should make it a nice white. Just a suggestion for you, seems like you have it. The straw's are excellent for this as well.

It's fun to do this with the gels, isn't it?

You can also pre cut some other colors you use only once in awhile, and insert them in a Surefire F04 diffuser, (Someone correct me if that is not the one), and you can just switch them out, like red, blue, green and so on.

Have fun and give us a report, I may want to play around with the gels, I have not done this in a while, and it would be nice to see what you and others come up with.

Nice to hear from someone who understands Color temp. I used to, in the film days, use the big sheets of gel to cover my 6' tall soft boxes when shooting tungsten chromes.

Best,

RL
 
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