A Tribute to Nitecore D10

Lithium466

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great photos and info, thanks, I trust Lithium466 knows his stuff, when he talks, I listen.

curious, to replace the XR.. would you lift a new 10mm mcpcb with the new LED, using copper washers?

kaidomain will put a 2700k LH351d onto a 10mm mcpcb.. so DHart would only need to solder wires, no LED reflow task..

I have only modded models with XP LEDs and have not figured out how to tackle one of my XR lights.. tips appreciated
Oh oh, it's been so long I wouldn't listen to myself ;)
Plus I only ever had a D11.2, back in the day I had put a Nichia 219A in it!
2700°K LH351d sure sounds interesting...I have Novatac and HDS that could use a led update.

As for replacing a XR...it's been way too long for me to remember properly. The reflector has a wider opening but if well design to avoid the "Cree ring" it shouldn't need to have the led sit too high. Back in the day replacing XR-E with XM-L was pretty straightforward, using only a 1,5mm thick mpcb, but hey, was I picky like today (with all the great options out there) regarding the beam? Not sure.

Using the Sinkpad 10mm (they are slightly thicker at 1,65mm) and trial and error to see if washers are needed or not? But the contacts would probably be begging to short on the reflector, so it might be easier keeping a 12 or 16mm board...Sinkpad if you go the Nichia route, as they are slightly thicker (unless there are other options nowadays!).
I remember centering rings that would fill the "XR-E openings" of XR-E designed reflectors and center a 3535 led, a bit like this one maybe :

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_82&product_id=242

But I'm not sure that would work well with a Nichia led, so perhaps it would be better to use one of these "butterfly" centering things, that would allow the reflector to sit lower?
 

jon_slider

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5,140
DHart said:
XP-L HI V2 5A … On a 16mm MCPCB…works fine

congrats! :)

I would also recommend new thermal paste under the mcpcb

ninemm did the same mod, and I also have a D10 with that same 16mm board, that came with the XP-L Hi NW. I reflowed a Nichia, to get High CRI.

fwiw, your LED names are reversed, your green driver had the XR LED
as pictured on left. On the right is the 16mm board you just installed.
qRV39Iyl.png


Your red driver has an XP-G. I would reflow a new LED directly onto the stock mcpcb on your Red driver, pictured on the right: (I added the LED names to your photo)
DHart said:
(I would omit the piece of black tape with a hole in the middle)

but I know you enjoy skipping reflowing if possible, so no harm trying the 16mm mountain board.. it will work the same, if it is the same thickness as the stock board.

otherwise, you can practice reflowing the LED off the 16mm mountain board, and onto the stock board on your Red driver..

I look forward to your succes! :)


Lithium466 said:
I remember centering rings that would fill the "XR-E openings" of XR-E designed reflectors and center a 3535 led

I have some, they are pretty tall, and not needed for the XR mod to 16mm MTN board. DHart, ninemm, and I, are all successfully using 16mm MTN boards to replace the XR LEDs in D10 lights.. with no added centering rings or spacers.


Lithium466 said:
perhaps it would be better to use one of these "butterfly" centering things

I do not think DHart will need a butterfly spacer for his second mod. More likely the stock mcpcb on his red driver is thinner than the 16mm MTN board. If that is true, then reflowing onto the stock mcpcb in the Red driver light would be the way to maintain stock pill to reflector spacing.

Whenever I have the option to reflow a new LED onto a stock mcpcb, I go that route, instead of replacing the mcpcb, (unless they are the same thickness, and are compatible with the same centering ring).

On the D11.2 I just reflow, I do not replace the MCPCB, because the centering ring in those models has posts that go through holes in the MCPCB.

on left is the 16mm MTN board in a D10 that was XR equipped. had the same XP-L Hi DHart just installed. I reflowed a 219b in place of the Low CRI XP-L Hi. On right is the stock D11.2 mcpcb and centering ring.. I reflowed a 219b to replace the Low CRI XPG.
JlFbaDvl.jpg
 
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DHart

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congrats! :)

I would also recommend new thermal paste under the mcpcb

ninemm did the same mod, and I also have a D10 with that same 16mm board, that came with the XP-L Hi NW. I reflowed a Nichia, to get High CRI.

Your red driver has an XP-G. I would reflow a new LED directly onto the stock mcpcb on your Red driver

...no harm trying the 16mm mountain board.. it will work the same, if it is the same thickness as the stock board.

otherwise, you can practice reflowing the LED off the 16mm mountain board, and onto the stock board on your Red driver..

I look forward to your success! :)

DHart, ninemm, and I, are all successfully using 16mm MTN boards to replace the XR LEDs in D10 lights.. with no added centering rings or spacers.

I do not think DHart will need a butterfly spacer for his second mod. More likely the stock mcpcb on his red driver is thinner than the 16mm MTN board. If that is true, then reflowing onto the stock mcpcb in the Red driver light would be the way to maintain stock pill to reflector spacing.

Whenever I have the option to reflow a new LED onto a stock mcpcb, I go that route, instead of replacing the mcpcb, (unless they are the same thickness, and are compatible with the same centering ring).

Jon... I watched a video on reflowing an LED and I'm fine with doing that. One question on that, though, when you put the solder paste on the MCPCB board contacts, before setting the LED on top, wouldn't the solder paste, when heated to flow, liquified short out across the + and - contacts on the board, under the LED?

Also, what would you recommend for solder paste and what's the purpose of flux? Do I need some flux too?

Regarding my two D10 LEDs - thanks for correcting me on them - the green driver is a D10 R2 which originally HAD an XR-E emitter. The red driver is a D10 R2 Hybrid (smaller switch O-ring like the S2) and has an XP-E emitter.

I'm fine with re-flowing a Nichia 219 onto the original D10 MCPCB, to replace the XP-E.

Lastly - dome vs. domeless? The XP-L HI 5A that I just installed in my D10 R2 was domeless - what difference would I see if it had a dome on it?
 
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jon_slider

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DHart said:
wouldn't the solder paste, when heated to flow, liquified short out across the + and - contacts on the board, under the LED?

solder paste magically gets sucked and pools onto the metal contact pads when it flows.. like oil drops pull together on water

I tap the LED to make excess solder squirt out the sides.. it is demonstrated in the video I posted above.. where he uses the word Boing to describe an LED that gets sucked into alignment when the solder holding the LED wets (melts)

DHart said:
what would you recommend for solder paste

its against the rules to post where to buy links on CPF, there are suggestions in the video I posted above

you might not need solder paste to reflow an LED onto the stock XP-E mcpcb, because it already has solder on it. But it is better to use solder paste on a brand new LED that has never had solder on the pads.

another option is add solder to the mcpcb solder pads using a soldering iron whose tip you have added solder to, so there will be plenty for the matching solder pads on the LED

you want a very thin layer of solder, so tapping the LED to squeeze out excess is a good practice imo
watch the video I posted above, it will all make sense


==

happy for you to embrace reflowing, its not hard, and creates a lot of modding options

it will be good practice to experience the XP-E come free of the mcpcb when the solder melts..

I would then remove the mcpcb from the hoptlate, let it cool.. apply a dab of flux on the old solder, and place the LED on the flux..

if you are lucky, the existing solder will be sufficient to bond to the LED

you may want a DMM to confirm correct polarity when placing the LED..
in the case of the 219b you can use the dark triangular notch as the marker for where the negative wire goes… hope that helps

DHart said:
what's the purpose of flux?

It makes solder joints shiny

it washes oxide off of solder pads and wires so they melt together properly and leave a shiny joint

so before I unsolder wires to remove an mcpcb, I put flux on them, and then apply the soldering iron to release the wire from the mcpcb..

same in reverse when reattaching wires.. flux on the solder pad and wire, heat so the joint melts to finish with a nice shiny blob
 
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Orbital Rotation

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Dec 27, 2020
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A question for the group: does anyone have any resources on getting a D10 back up and running?

This used to be my daily carry for years. It's given me hundreds and hundreds of hours of marvelous light. Right now, the piston will click, but no response from the unit, no flicker, no light, no noises. I looked through it, and I don't see any obvious signs of a damaged component or connection. If anyone has a suggestion on what I should look for next, or can recommend anyone who offers repair services, I'm all ears, thanks!




VkJTQJz.jpg


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k5WFbOC.jpg
 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
Messages
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Welcome to the forum

well done posting photos

sorry your light stopped working
at least we can be glad you enjoyed it for a long time

I dont see anything obviously wrong with the LED, or I would suggest replacing it.

I know no source for D10 replacement parts.

the only thing I see that gives me pause, is some white stuff near the red wire.. I dont know if thats battery chemical corrosion, or just some thermal paste. If it is corrosion, I would clean it off with alcohol, just in case it is causing a short circuit to the body. If it is just thermal paste, that is non conductive, so nothing to be concerned about.

The only Nitecore Piston lights I know of that are available now, is not an AA light, it is the CR123 powered Nitecore EX11.2.. you can find them on ebay, and I also have a couple with LED swaps for sale.
 

calipsoii

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Apr 21, 2010
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Ensure that the driver PCB (the green circuit board) is inserted fully into the brass driver pill. Gently but firmly press on the PCB to ensure it's properly resting on the brass shelf hidden inside the pill.

The D10 is an electronically-switched light and requires a constant power supply to operate. The ground connection is made by the PCB pressing against the brass driver pill. If there's even a tiny gap between PCB and pill then things won't work.
 

Orbital Rotation

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Dec 27, 2020
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Welcome to the forum

well done posting photos...

the only thing I see that gives me pause, is some white stuff near the red wire.. I dont know if thats battery chemical corrosion, or just some thermal paste. If it is corrosion, I would clean it off with alcohol, just in case it is causing a short circuit to the body. If it is just thermal paste, that is non conductive, so nothing to be concerned about...

Ensure that the driver PCB (the green circuit board) is inserted fully into the brass driver pill. Gently but firmly press on the PCB to ensure it's properly resting on the brass shelf hidden inside the pill....

Thanks for the welcome and the suggestions guys. Unfortunately the white substance is not corrosion or conductive, it's some kind of glue/caulk/sealant (it literally looks like bathroom caulk) that was pressed up from under the board. As the sole owner of this light, and never having opened it before, I'm certain it was applied at the factory.

No joy with a loose PCB either. Looks like I'll just have to shelf this one as a deceased relic. Appreciate ya'll!
 

the.Mtn.Man

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Oct 3, 2008
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I regret not buying a D10 when I had the chance. I got the D20 instead, and it was junk. The piston was sticky, the switch was flaky, and it had a nasty habit of suddenly turning on by itself and going to full brightness, and I wouldn't realize it until I felt my leg burning through my pocket.
 
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