TranquillityBase
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2005
- Messages
- 3,742
OK...I gave up:sigh:
RV7, said his NiMH drivers need a good quality switch, and the Kroll is a no go for this driver...I was pretty sure it wouldn't work, but no harm in trying.
RV7's NiMH driver pulls about 1850 mA at the battery side, so the Kroll is out:thumbsdow
This driver really sings with the direct connection offered by a twisty design...The exciting side benefit is, this 'twisty screw' can be adapted to other existing Kroll bodied lights:twothumbs
I didn't mod the cell tube, and a #15 o-ring works excellent for sealing the plug, while offering good resistance for setting preload on the 1AA cell. I used the old Sharpie for a line of reference, then I set the cell preload...No worries about damage to the driver, the cell tube bottoms out, long before too much stress would be loaded on the driver board.
The end results are fantastic, no DMM or light meter necessary...My 1AA light warmed up much quicker, and the difference in brightness was very easy to see.
RV7, said his NiMH drivers need a good quality switch, and the Kroll is a no go for this driver...I was pretty sure it wouldn't work, but no harm in trying.
RV7's NiMH driver pulls about 1850 mA at the battery side, so the Kroll is out:thumbsdow
This driver really sings with the direct connection offered by a twisty design...The exciting side benefit is, this 'twisty screw' can be adapted to other existing Kroll bodied lights:twothumbs
I didn't mod the cell tube, and a #15 o-ring works excellent for sealing the plug, while offering good resistance for setting preload on the 1AA cell. I used the old Sharpie for a line of reference, then I set the cell preload...No worries about damage to the driver, the cell tube bottoms out, long before too much stress would be loaded on the driver board.
The end results are fantastic, no DMM or light meter necessary...My 1AA light warmed up much quicker, and the difference in brightness was very easy to see.


