AA Flashlight (new single cell converter) addition to the series

[qmtu]

Love the AA, I want a Haiku in single AA.

Would you go for XP-G2 or Nichia 119V?

 

[yoyoman]

The proper answer is both. But let's be reasonable. More output with the XP-G2 and higher CRI with the Nichia 119v. I bought an AA Haiku with the Nichia and it didn't grab me. I put the light engine in a mule head and I'm happy. The Haiku head now has a XP-G2 3S light engine and a 123 Pak. Also happy with that. I'm not a tint snob and the XM-L Haiku is my favorite. An AA XM-L light engine in a Haiku head would also be very nice - more output than the XP-G2 and that wonderful floody beam profile.

 

[anongpc]

so beatiful,looked like works of art !!!!

 

[mcbrat]

I didn't mean to ever recommend this converter for use with 4.2V cells due to the consideration that any voltage above the Vf of the LED and some presumed overhead, the excess voltage would be burnt off as heat. The converter can handle input voltage up to 4.5 but its efficiency would suck for want of a better term at higher voltages. I think I put in a 3.5V ceiling in the chart and this not as an actual limit but as a practical limit. I believe there are some rechargeable cells that are in excess of 3V but not as high as the 4.2 Li-Ion? I wanted to allow them for reasonable consideration.

carrot,
I think one way to compare the AA converter to the 3S would be to consider it a "miser" version of the 3S. On high it puts out 300 mA to the LED VS the 500 mA or 660 mA of the 3S, depending on LED used. As far as being able to milk all the juice out of a CR123, yes the input voltage floor is way down there but once the battery is depleted to the point that it can't provide the power requested of the light engine, the LE is not going to perform as desired. I don't know if it can effectively milk more power from a spent CR123 than the 3S or not. :shrug:

FYI: it appears that a very brief ( < 1s ) momentary bust of V that is way to high will not blow the converter...
I put a AA Mule head onto a 2xAA body that I forgot I loaded in two 14500's for a different E head
I realized it right away and shut it off... no apparent damage done, but I'm not gonna test it again

 

[Q619]

FYI: it appears that a very brief ( < 1s ) momentary bust of V that is way to high will not blow the converter...
I put a AA Mule head onto a 2xAA body that I forgot I loaded in two 14500's for a different E head
I realized it right away and shut it off... no apparent damage done, but I'm not gonna test it again

Did it get warm?

 

[mcbrat]

No, but I don't think it was on long enough to generate any real heat....

 

[F89]

This converter is great. My new Haiku AA is now my favourite light.
The combination of the AA pak and AA converter is definitely something to add to any McGizmo collection if you can.

 

[OneBigDay]

I keep coming back here thinking I would really like a AA setup, but could never decide on a head, emitter combo. Purpose is just good general purpose EDC type light. I'm not really a tint snob, but I do tend to get wrapped up in the "shape" of the beam.

From what I can gather, from floodiest to most focused would go something like this (excluding Nichia emitters) XM-L2 Mule --> Sundrop XM-L2 --> Haiku XM-L2 --> Haiku XP-G2

Pretty sure I don't want a mule (yet), and I know I would love the Haiku XP-G2, but really more curious about the beams in the middle. I know describing these things is not easy but would anyone be willing to describe the difference in beam profile between going with a Sundrop XM-L2 and a Haiku XM-L2 ? Is the Sundrop beam profile closer to the mule, or closer to a reflectored light?

 

[OneBigDay]

Still reading. Found this video posted in another thread, which is old but seems to go quite a way towards my question above. Liking the idea of the sundrop more and more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_KYXjup-Lk

 

[Q619]

I've been carrying my AA Haiku w/119 (not the 119V) every day. My favorite light by far.

 

[OneBigDay]

I finally decided on a configuration and have received my Haiku a couple days ago. I am VERY pleased with the end result.

My configuration: Haiku head/XM-L2 LE/AA Pak body/HIVE converter
I'm running a single Efest button top Li-ion (14500).

For me the thing that has kept me from McGizmo lights (up until the AquaRam!), was that everything was based around primaries (3.0v) and specifically CR123 sized offerings. I had been hoping eventually something as small and useful as a Haiku sized light would emerge that took a single Li-ion (4.2v). Now with the fairly recent AA Pak and HIVE converter combination, the single Li-ion Haiku is here!

I prefer floody beams and the XM-L2 in the Haiku is sweet. The XM-L2 has more than enough throw for my needs. I would still be interested in a XP-G2 head someday, but first things first. If I only get to have one or the other, I feel like I made the right choice with the XM-L2.

The HIVE converter is impressive and stock has 4 levels - LL-Med-High-Turbo. The high is somewhere around 350ma and is plenty of light for any real extended use, but it is really a nice feature to have a turbo (1000ma) that is meant to be used in short bursts, but is nonetheless available.

Great combo, very pleased. I wanted to post my experience in case anybody else out there is reading and debating which converter to use (AA or HIVE). I have no doubt the AA converter would also be nice and in some ways more practical using regular low voltage AAs, but at the end of the day having a potentially programmable driver, and also having turbo at 1000ma stock put me over the edge and in the HIVE camp.

Also wanted to mention I really appreciate how Don does business, he puts his cards on the table, and delivers what he says. He follows up, corresponds quickly and very professionally. He has made his process sustainable, therefore ensuring not only his own success but a happy customer base. It is painful to watch the slow motion crash and burn that has happened to some vendors here because of offering things that are not possible to deliver for any sustained time period.

Thanks Don! Fellow CPFers, <hypnosis> you need a Haiku </hypnosis>

 

[rush]

OneBigDay,

It is great to read such a positive review about the Hive driver, it is awesome that you are convinced of the advantages of the driver over Dons' other offerings.
Of course both the HiveLD and the AA converter have their strengths and some people prefer to be able to run off alkaline or NiMH cells.
However i am wondering why you say that the AAPak and the HiveLD are the first combo that allows to use a single LI-Ion cell? Wouldn't a 16340 Li-Ion in a standard Haiku body offer the same battery configuration and a similar battery capacity?

 

[OneBigDay]

Hi Rush, good point about 16340. It is a personal hangup but I just don't buy 16340 or CR123 lights. I decided this a long time ago and with very few exceptions have stuck to it. I would rather use an 18350 with better capacity and higher safe amp draw. Then 14500 or AA lights have the advantage of slimming down a little bit, which I also like. In practice this 2mm doesn't amount to a lot of extra width, but it's just a line in the sand a drew a long time ago.

 

[HRace]

Hi guys! I have 2 questions regarding this single AA pack (running a Haiku head, not that it matters).

Has anyone mounted one the handlebars of a bike as a front light during dusk / dawn rides? I'm curious if anyone has found a mount that will work with / around the clip and DEFINITELY hold that fine Ti piece in place with no risk of drops.

Second.......from my over 10 hours of reading the McGizmo forums trying to get caught up, these lights sound like near tank level of toughness.....but I'm nervous about subjecting it to constant vibration from a bike frame into the light. Since the Light engine isn't potted like a Malkoff for instance, would any of you subject the light to this.

Honestly, I want to get a light and use it for basically everything, including a bike light. But definitely don't want to cut down on the reliability of the light. Any advice?

Thanks guys. I can definitely just research bike mounts but maybe somebody already has it figured out perfectly. I'll think if one of Don's loc-lines may work with the threaded clip mount. Lots of ideas.

 

[eala]

I use these.
http://www.twofish.biz/bike.html

Should be no problem for the McG. The block part is rubber.

I would not worry about vibrations of this nature with the McG light, but using the rubber block it really should not be a concern.

eala

 

[qmtu]

Don, I sent you an email on 10/29 for a Haiku HiCRI 119V head with AA converter. Checking to see if you received the email.

 

[McGizmo]

Don, I sent you an email on 10/29 for a Haiku HiCRI 119V head with AA converter. Checking to see if you received the email.

Thanks for posting here! I just looked in my spam folder and found yuour request. So Sorry! I will get the head built and off in the mail tomorrow...

 

[F89]

I just noticed that my AA converter uses PWM, which isn't a particularly bad thing but I always thought it was said to be a CC driver.
PWM only bothers me when I can see it in use which I don't with this converter but interestingly enough it appears to use PWM on all levels albeit very fast on high.
Has anyone else noticed this?

Just compared it to a 3S and it also has the same very fast PWM on high. Interesting.
I'm simply posting out of interest, no gripes with these excellent drivers.

 

[blankc72]

I have two Haiku’s with AA converters and can’t see PWM. I’ve gone out of my way to see PWM with them and never did. The reason I went with the AA rather than the 3S is because it doesn’t have it as mentioned in the first post of this thread. Maybe it was a recent change? Either way, it’s still my favorite light by far.

 

[F89]

I have two Haiku’s with AA converters and can’t see PWM. I’ve gone out of my way to see PWM with them and never did. The reason I went with the AA rather than the 3S is because it doesn’t have it as mentioned in the first post of this thread. Maybe it was a recent change? Either way, it’s still my favorite light by far.

If you don't notice it in use with the AA converter you wouldn't notice it on the 3S.
I got my AA about 2 years ago.
Try using your phone camera to test (turn the exposure right down) if you're interested, you'll have to look closely to see it in high but medium and low are easily seen.
Pretty unscientific but the PWM frequency of the AA converter looks much the same as the more recent 3S converters.
I generally pick up on PWM in use but the 3S and AA converters must have a high enough frequency for me not to notice it.