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Abnormal behavior of my Haiku and swapping ofLE ?

cubebike

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
359
Location
HK
My haiku wasn't operating normally for first 5-8 mins last night and then appeared to be back to normal.

My 5 days old haiku might have some problem. I wrote to Don already.

I turned it on last night and it was flashing on/off! I thought the panasonic primary was dead, I changed a fresh primary! The haiku did not response when I turned it on, 2-3 seconds later it dimmed on ( gradually from low intensity to max)! I pressed on/off for good 10-20 times trying to change light intensity! It was still in dim on mode and I could not change the intensity!

Ok, I changed to Aw R123 to check what will happen, still doing the dim on mode!
I changed to surefire e1e body and check again! No luck at all!

After 5-10 minutes numerous attempt and frustration , the haiku behaving normally all in a sudden!

My second question regarding the swapping of LE . I have Sundrop XRU Nichia and the Haiku Xml . Are the LE interchangeable ? Any modification needed

If my LE has issue, I wanna just to send the LE back to Don and hopefully he will be
able to send me another LE!

Thanks for your time and will try to update all!

I think I am natural LE enemy! I had to send my Sunwayman Mr Elfin and the jet beam tcr01 back for warranty due to LE problems!
 
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Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

These LE's might have a calibration process that was some how triggered. Don should know... or others that know more than I.

eala
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

These LE's might have a calibration process that was some how triggered. Don should know... or others that know more than I.

eala

The light engines do have a calibration process which is unnecessary for the user to ever mess with unless a new LED replaces the existing one. It is possible though to enter into the calibration mode if you quickly cycle on-off-on enough times in rapid succession. This might have been the case for cubebike but I don't know. From what I can gather in messing on the bench with the LE's is once you do trigger the LE into callibration, it requires some on time to sort things out and you typically see the light ramp up in brightness, hold for a few moments and then it shifts into low level and holds steady. From that point on the light will behave properly unless you once again enter calibration mode. If the battery is too low in power and you enter calibration mode with the converter unable to pull enough power to establish constant current to the LED in high mode, calibration will not be completed until the LE is provided enough power.

You have to cycle something like 10 times really fast to enter calibration mode and in "normal" use this is most unlikely?!?
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

Thanks Don. I will closely monitor the Haiku now. So far, it appears normal
I have further questions regarding swapping of LE. The LE of sundrop xru Nichia and Haiku Xml , are they interchangeable? Any modifications needed?

Thanks

ps. I did not cycle through my Haiku when the "calibration" happened . The Haiku was left unattended for 2 days . I just wanna to turn it on and it showed the abnormal behavior .
 
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Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

cubebike,
If you run into any mis behaving of the light engine, contact me via e-mail and we can sort out an exchange. I have no idea what was going on there?!?!

The SunDrop XR-U head can accommodate any the light engines. The reflectored heads are specific to Light Engines and in the case of the Haiku, there are two reflectors I use; one which works for the XP-G and 119 and the other presently with the XM-L. The Haiku reflectors have small O-rings that must be in place between the reflector and LED/ MCPCB to insure proper focus as well as electrical isolation. The Nichia LE is not compatible with a Haiku XM-L configuration.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

Thanks for the quick feedback. I will keep an eye on the XML performance.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

I have been testing the Haiku for a week or so. So far the LE performing normally.

I have been searching the topic regarding the removal of button hex screws. I found quite a lot of people stripped the screws at some stage. I thought I stripped both of the screws and was planning for dermel cut/drill job. I used WIHA and Bondhus 1/16 hex driver with no luck and basically I stripped both of the drivers. Finally, I bought HUDY hex driver and fortunately I was able to remove the half stripped screws from the HAIKU. I hope my experience will be useful for others McGizmo user when they encountered same problems.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

I have been testing the Haiku for a week or so. So far the LE performing normally.

I have been searching the topic regarding the removal of button hex screws. I found quite a lot of people stripped the screws at some stage. I thought I stripped both of the screws and was planning for dermel cut/drill job. I used WIHA and Bondhus 1/16 hex driver with no luck and basically I stripped both of the drivers. Finally, I bought HUDY hex driver and fortunately I was able to remove the half stripped screws from the HAIKU. I hope my experience will be useful for others McGizmo user when they encountered same problems.

In your search did you find any mention of the Thorpe driver? Your experience will help others if they happen to read about it prior to attempting to remove the screws. Are the screw threads stripped or is the hex socket deformed? I am curious why you had to remove the screws. Was there an issue with the clip?
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

Hi Don,
i stripped the hex socket by the Wera and Bondhus drivers! I found the MIP thread but it is not available at my part of the world for immediate usage!
I wanna to set center of my clip so that I have to loosen the screws! Also, I wanna to swap the clips between my 2 Mcgizmo !
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

I ordered a Thorpe 1/16" from eBay and was able to remove the hex screws to change the clip out to the laser edged one. Like you, I damaged a few drivers in the process. Thorpe saved the day.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

I am now in the process of looking for the titanium screws. Hopefully, I should be able to get some locally! I will stick to the HUDY driver for the time being, if it fails in some stage, I will definitely get the Thorpe.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

I am currently using the hudy tools as most of my tools for my other (rc) hobby are hudy. These are great tools and i have yet to encounter any damaged screws on my three mcgizmos.
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

The light engines do have a calibration process which is unnecessary for the user to ever mess with unless a new LED replaces the existing one. It is possible though to enter into the calibration mode if you quickly cycle on-off-on enough times in rapid succession. This might have been the case for cubebike but I don't know. From what I can gather in messing on the bench with the LE's is once you do trigger the LE into callibration, it requires some on time to sort things out and you typically see the light ramp up in brightness, hold for a few moments and then it shifts into low level and holds steady. From that point on the light will behave properly unless you once again enter calibration mode. If the battery is too low in power and you enter calibration mode with the converter unable to pull enough power to establish constant current to the LED in high mode, calibration will not be completed until the LE is provided enough power.

You have to cycle something like 10 times really fast to enter calibration mode and in "normal" use this is most unlikely?!?

Hi Don,
As a matter of fact I'll be swapping the LED from a 3S LE shortly. Can you provide me with the calibration process ? I have tried cycling fast with no success. Do I just start from off and rapidly press the switch ?
 
Re: Abnormal behavior of my Haiku last night

To enter calibration mode, you start from off or on from what I can gather and then rapidly cycle off-on ten times ending with the light on. If you have successfully entered the calibration mode, the light will come on in a low output and then work its way up to full brightness and ultimately drop back into low. Once it appears stable in low, you are done and can turn the light off. I don't find it an easy process.
 
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