Abyss Dive Lights - Mark1

MAD23

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 10, 2013
Messages
40
Hello everyone!!

We are proud to show you our Mark1 canister dive light

Some specs:

Machined from a single piece of aeronautical aluminium
Hard anodized, more than 40µm
Silicone o-rings
Polycarbonate Makrolon lens (5mm thick)
MKR-J2 led @2amps
High discarge rate Lipo Battery
Gold plated pins
Nielsen sessions Inox clamps
GITD treatment
Optional TIR or Fresnel lens
Exclusive 90º turn locking system, you can use it on any flat surface, e.g helmets
Delrin machined goodman handle
Individually tested to 20Bar, each one of them goes into the pressure chamber

Hope you like it!!

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I've almost forgot it, the electronics are made by the great George, from taskled!!
 
Spot from the Mark1 fresnel lens version

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2 meters aprox, slightly defocused
 
looking good. is that only 1 o-ring on the cannister lid? wouldn't it be better to add an additional o-ring on the part that slides inside the cannister? that way, it may stay dry if one lock opens somehow.
(never used these locks so don't know if this could happen).

What kind of switch are you using?

Johan
 
looking good. is that only 1 o-ring on the cannister lid? wouldn't it be better to add an additional o-ring on the part that slides inside the cannister? that way, it may stay dry if one lock opens somehow.
(never used these locks so don't know if this could happen).

What kind of switch are you using?

Johan

Those locks have a "locking" handle, so that if you need to open the latch you have to press the handle and then open the latch, it is extremely complicated to the laches to open by accident, in fact all of the big manufacturers use them with the exact same configuration, 1 o-ring in the lid, without any problem in years.

We use ip68 toggle switches with silicone rubber boot

Glad you like it!!
 
I use the same latches and have done so for some time. Recently I have found some are failing due to the spring that holds the locking tab out rusting out.

I use an axial and a radial Oring seal in my cans. It adds very little to build time/cost but adds a significant level of protection (IMHO).
 
I use the same latches and have done so for some time. Recently I have found some are failing due to the spring that holds the locking tab out rusting out.

I use an axial and a radial Oring seal in my cans. It adds very little to build time/cost but adds a significant level of protection (IMHO).

Nielsen sessions? i have been using them for years without any problem with the spring or any other part of them, in fact i have one of my first cans with about 1000 hours of underwatter use and it's still in very good condition :thinking:
 
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