Access to leds in Seac-sub X-Led?

[The Magpie]

I've had a Seac-Sub X-Led for a few years and it works well, but of course I want more light. Hoping I might be able to simply swap the 3 leds for something with greater output I looked to open it up but I can't work out how to get into the head unit.

Anyone got any ideas? Or is it a stupid idea? I think the light might actually be made by Fami as the battery setup and led layout looks exactly the same as my mates Fami 40.

Anyway, anyone know how to get into this:

 

[wes_wall]

Looks like a band saw would get you in. Do you think they press fit the lens into the head? I can't really tell.

 

[wquiles]

Based on the diameter of optics, everything has to come out the front. It looks like a retaining O-ring on the outer lens - if you remove that, and use a suction cup, you might be able to get the lens to come out, and then the rest.

 

[The Magpie]

Thanks for that, I have had the lens o-ring out but the lens seemed firmly fixed in place like it was bonded or something.

 

[wes_wall]

So you don't like my band saw idea. wquiles idea gave me another one that may not be as destructive as the band saw.
Remove the o-ring and apply air pressure to the hole in the back. Just in case this idea works, I would hold one hand on the lens side. Since it is designed to resist pressure from the outside, the lens may be pressed in and the additional o-ring added while physical pressure is applied to the lens through some kind of fixture. This would be the cheapest way to hold it together....and very clever. I would use compressed air from the LOW pressure side of the regulator through a rubber tipped blower.
To re install the lens, you will have to make some kind of trimmed down hockey puck to distribute pressure evenly across the lens wile you somehow work the o-ring back into the groove. If this does not work please be careful with the band saw.

 

[The Magpie]

Thanks Wes but I'd like it to still be water tight when I've finished so the band saw will have to remain silent.

Haven't got access to a compressor unfortunately but thanks for the suggestion.

I took the first o-ring off again last night and the lens really doesn't seem like it wants to budge, there is a gap all the way round the edge of it but levering it gently with a small screw driver doesn't have any affect. I tried pulling it with a suction cup with no joy either. It's odd as it just looks like it's sat on another o-ring???

 

[Goldigger]

I emailed the uk distributer about the xled some time ago.. they informed me that you cannot get the led head out. So i would assume its bonded in somehow..

 

[The Magpie]

Thanks Goldigger, good to know now before I bust it trying to get it out!

 

[SUBjohan]

I would try the compressed air technique, I once opened a Kowalski light this way.

 

[kd5ahl]

It looks a lot like my Dive Rite LED Head that I disassembled.

There's an o-ring wedged into a groove in front of the lens, pick it out carefully, and then the glass should come out. This o-ring is primarily to hod the glass against an inner o-ring for the final seal.

once the glass comes out, the reflector/lens comes out and then you can get at the electronics.

See the photos below of my disassembly...

As you can see below, there's a little notch to let you get a tool in there, your image did not show one of those so be extra careful.

Left to right: optics, inner o-ring (goes under the glass), Glass, Outer o-ring.

EDIT: Will's suction cup idea sounds terrific. My lens was stuck to the lower o-ring and i had to tap the light head against my hand to get the lens to drop out.

Once you get it apart, post pictures, I'd be curious how similar the electronics is to my light.

 

[The Magpie]

Thanks for the great pics mate. I have had that first o-ring out and the glass still doesn't budge a mm :-(

 

[Packhorse]

I would try the compressed air technique, I once opened a Kowalski light this way.

Yeah, I concur. 232 bar should make it pop out.

 

[SUBjohan]

Yeah, I concur. 232 bar should make it pop out.

And break your glass, I would say don't go above 8 or 10 bar from a compressor

 

[portinfer]

I have the Fami power 40 and took it round last night to compare with the xled.

The head to body connectors are swapped on the fami (female on the head and male on the body).

I'm really keen to take this apart and pop in something more fun 🙂

Have removed the outer o-ring on the head.
So far have tried hitting it against hand (didn't work), using a lump hammer and suitable block on the reverse to try and tap the internals against the lens and force it out (didn't work) and like Tom I have also tried to prise out the lens (didn't work but did produce a nice splinter from the edge...).

Next step is to try and use a mate's compressor to blow the lens out. Failing that I guess it could be broken out and then replaced with a suitable disk of glass or acrylic ? Or is this too drastic ? Have tried to find the Fami site to see if I could order a spare (or two - Tom ?!) disk of glass but have had trouble finding it.

This is incredibly frustrating !

From seeing Tom's various torches last night I am set on trying to improve this little Fami. I can fit in maybe 2 x 18650's in the body and I guess I may need to change out some of the electrics inside but even if I replace what is in there (3 x luxeons running off 4 x AA) with something like a P4 it would be better. I might get a mate with a metal machining business to machine up an extension for the body or a new body...

Any advice ? - Ed

 

[portinfer]

Got it out in the end 🙂

Next step ?
Thanks,
Ed

 

[Goldigger]

So is there no electronics in the Fami??

Can you take a pic of the optics?

I would be concerned with the chip in the lens, that might not seal properely now..

 

[gav6280]

Surprised by how cheaply it appears to be put together, just a couple of resistors???? WoW.....

Strip it down completely. Add 3x XRE R2 and a suitable driver.

 

[wes_wall]

If you're a purist, replace the lens. Check with McMaster Carr under borosilicate discs. Match your thickness and diameter. I don't know about them shipping to UK, but I am sure they can.

If you are not a purist, consider this: only one side of the lens seals. If one side is smooth press it in against the inside o-ring. Using lots of lubricant try pressing the retaining o-ring in bit by bit all the way around, leaving the chip for last.

I believe however that you will have to fashion some sort of clamp to press the lens in and actually compress the o-ring. Clamp will need to be special in that you will need to put the retaining o-ring on (just sitting there) before you fix it into the clamp. I wish I were better at describing what I think you'll nee to do.

In any case have fun.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

 

[The Magpie]

Good work Ed, surprisingly bodged up in there eh!

So how did you actually get in then?

Hopefully someone here will have some better input but looks to me like p4's would be a direct swap, they look like the same format. But as Gav6280 says, you'd get a lot more out of 3 xr-e's or xp-g's though they'll need a driver.

 

[portinfer]

Sorry Tom - didn't mean to make you sweat - was just glad I had the sucker apart 🙂

Was getting frustrated with it (hence chip). Now that I have it apart it looks different to the Dive Rite torch (pix in black in this post see above).

There are three o-rigs. An outside one (easy to sort of roll/peel out) then the disk of glass with a thin gap around it and a corresponding inner one. Additionally there is an o-ring that goes around the rim of the glass.

This is why you won't be able to prise the glass out despite there appearing to be a gap (did I mention the chip ?!).

I took a guess that the reverse of the head was fairly solid and would evenly force out the glass from the back. To aid this I thought a change in temp would help so had the option of the woodburner (maybe 850C...) or the freezer (maybe -5C) and thought the the freezer would be kinder.

Froze it for an hour then took it out, placed the head face down on a piece of plasterboard and gave it some meaningful taps with a lump hammer and a piece of ash wood. Anyway the glass popped out and then I could see the extra oring.

I think that I'd get away with the chip as there is an additional oring on the rim internally and also I freedive so the depths will be a max of 20metres and as this is night diving rarely below 10m. In fact mostly about 7m max I'd say.

Anyway as for the elctronics - there are some in the body and I guess that this is a board to regulate the batteries ? Will have a go at whipping it out (without the aid of the hammer) tonight....

Thanks
Ed

(Tom - if you need to use my 'fami dissassembly' kit or want to laugh at the chipped glass I'll be in this afternoon - just give me a call - got sunday lunch first tho.)