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Sold/Expired Adjustable 10A linear LED driver - New and Improved!

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Re: Adjustable 10A linear constant current driver

DIWdiver said:
Unfortunately, the heatsink isn't the only problem. If you run one LED on an IS1006-0820, the driver will dissipate about 80W. Short of soldering the FET directly to the heatsink (which would then require that you electrically isolate the heatsink), there's no way to get that much heat out of the FET and into the heatsink without unacceptable temperature rise. The practical limit is around 30W, which is about what you get running three LEDs in series.
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As long as the bike is on, it will be moving faster than 10mph. I can honestly say that I've never ridden the bike slower than 15mph. Unfortunately, the bike has a LOT of torque and I cannot take off without it instantly speeding past 10mph in the first second or two. The Yamaha V-max is known for it's power.

Your concern is however noted. I can't imagine using more than 2 Lights on this bike though.. just seems like overkill. Any way to add additional lower powered LED's into the mix? Say like 2 XM-L's?

How about a Peltier affixed to a heatsink with the driver on the opposite side? I have a Peltier pulled from a C@sio Projector that had a SST-50 red led mounted onto it. I used the projector to harvest for blue Laser diodes.

Sorry, not meaning to clutter up your sales thread with discussions on lights and such.
 
Re: Adjustable 10A linear constant current driver

No problem cluttering up the thread, it's pretty bad already. Plus I always intended it to be for discussions like this.

As long as you keep the bike moving, the heatsink isn't the problem, it's the FET thermal interface, so the Peltier isn't going to help. Also, one intended for use with an SST-50 probably wouldn't handle the heat flux we're talking about.

You could add 3 XM-Ls, parallel to each other but series with the -90. Then you would have 2.67A in each XM-L and 8 in the -90, and less heat in the driver. If you added a 1-ohm 10W resistor in series with each XM-L, then they would current share very well and you'd releive more stress on the driver. In fact I'd be tempted to put two in series with each XM-L. That would reduce the max power in the driver to around 15W, which is very managable. It would mean that you'd need a tad over 12V to get full power in the LEDs, but I'd guess that wouldn't be a problem for you.
 
Re: Adjustable 10A linear constant current driver

Kenom said:
I'm not concerned about legal issues.
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You need to be concerned about legal issues, which are a good bit more important and specific (and applicable) than you seem to realize. Laws and regulations do not cease to exist simply because you aren't aware of them, don't understand them, or don't like them. Homemade lamps are not legal, unless you build them, have them tested, and certify them in accordane with the applicable technical regulations. That is a prohibitively difficult and costly proposition for a one-off kind of deal. You don't get to just declare the lights you build as fog lamps (or whatever) and call it good. The lighting modifications/products you're asking about or recommending are illegal. Rule 11 of this board prohibits advocating illegal activity. Stop it now, please.
 
Re: Adjustable 10A linear constant current driver

Scheinwerfermann said:
You need to be concerned about legal issues, which are a good bit more important and specific (and applicable) than you seem to realize. Laws and regulations do not cease to exist simply because you aren't aware of them, don't understand them, or don't like them. Homemade lamps are not legal, unless you build them, have them tested, and certify them in accordane with the applicable technical regulations. That is a prohibitively difficult and costly proposition for a one-off kind of deal. You don't get to just declare the lights you build as fog lamps (or whatever) and call it good. The lighting modifications/products you're asking about or recommending are illegal. Rule 11 of this board prohibits advocating illegal activity. Stop it now, please.
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What makes you think I am not going to take the prohibitively difficult and costly proposition or that this is a one of a Kind deal? When I tackle a project of this size, it's not for just my own person use. It's also for a manufacturing standpoint. It's all part of the research and development of a product. He was discussing legal issues which are not relevant to the discussion of the driver, hence my comment that I wasn't concerned about the legal issue. I appreciate you looking out for the board, but nothing discussed is illegal.
 
DIWdiver said:
Actually, shipping is now $5.15, so the total is $55.15.

Sorry for the delay, I had somehow missed that there was an update in the thread.
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No worries. I think part of the delay was actually mod time because I don't have my three posts in yet. Of course I was out of country when you replied. Sorry for the long delay. PP incoming.
 
Hi, What is the minimum driver input voltage differential OVER the led's forward voltage in order to be in regulation before going in DD mode. I wish to use a 7.2 VDC as input but the led's Fv is 6.2V. Would that bee too close ?( 1V over)
Also if I use an potentiometer for dimming, will that dimming be PWM or not ? and finally, if I throttle down the current to about 5 A to the leds via the potentiometer, will that cause excess heat due to power that has to be "burned"?.
 
Hi guys,

Somehow this thread got dropped from my subscriptions (probably my fault), and I didn't realize there were new posts in it.

Videoman,
The term for what you are asking about is 'dropout voltage'. The maximum dropout voltage of the IS1006 is 0.3V, at 10A. It's somewhat less at lower currents. The exact current/dropout relationship depends on the model. It's discussed in more detail in the data sheet. Let me know if you want me to e-mail it to you.

The dimming is analog, not PWM, so the heat in both the LED and driver is reduced when you dim it, and the reduction is approximately proportional to the dimming. However, because the LED voltage is lower at lower current, the efficiency of the driver is a little bit less. This means the heat in the LED drops a little faster than the heat in the driver.

john890,
Shipping is USPS priority flat rate, currently $5.15 within the US.

ninja_911,
I could, but it wouldn't be a simple modification of an existing driver. At the voltages and power levels that thing wants, the overall system design would have to be part of the driver design, and vice-versa. Mainly, I'd have to know a lot about the power source and the desired control scheme before I could say what might be appropriate for the driver. It might not even be necessary to have a driver. I'd be happy to entertain a conversation about how to run that device, but building a driver is a lot of work, and I wouldn't undertake it unless there were a significant number of people looking for it, or there were sufficient $$ in it for me.

D
 
Hi there i'm looking a running a sst-90 with 4 nimh c cells would this driver be ok with that ? also would it be possible to have a direct drive mode for max ?

Charles
 
Yes, that's exactly what this driver was originally built for.

However, running a single C cell at 9A is pushing it pretty hard. You won't get much burn time (20 minutes?).

Yes, you can easily bypass the driver for DD, just put a switch across the L- and B- terminals. But to do it using the mode inputs is not possible.
 
DIWdiver said:
Yes, that's exactly what this driver was originally built for.

However, running a single C cell at 9A is pushing it pretty hard. You won't get much burn time (20 minutes?).

Yes, you can easily bypass the driver for DD, just put a switch across the L- and B- terminals. But to do it using the mode inputs is not possible.
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Hi thanks for the quick reply, i intend to run the light from 4 c cells not 1 i'm very interested in this driver but i want a higher output more like 12-13amps 🙂 would this be possible at all ?
 
Even if you run it from 4 C cells in series each one of those cells will see 9A under load. Thats what he meant.
 
At 12-13 amps you'd be better off with a CST-90. It's the same die on a copper substrate instead of ceramic (which is usually mounted on an aluminum-based star), and is meant for higher current applications than the SST-90. I've seen pricing not much different, but heat handling is much different.
 
I need one !! but I can't PM you .. but if you can give me the price for one 10 2.5 and the port for france I send the paypal paiement
 
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