Air compressors

[65535]

Hi guys,

I have a couple of compressed air questions, since I'm getting an air impact wrench :
1/ I have no filter/water trap whatsoever on my compressor outlet. Is that a major no-go or can I still use it like that with my wrench ? If I need a filter/water trap, does a cheap HF do the job ?
2/ I have no air oiler either. I read here and there that a few drops of oil in the wrench air inlet before each use is Ok. Do you confirm this or do I actually have to get an air oiler ?
3/ Is it possible/viable to increase my compressor tank size with used butane bottles ? Wouln't look so good but would be a dirty cheap way to increase my tank size...

Thanks for any input 🙂

If you use the Ipmact wrench a lot you'll want an oil/water seperator, filter, and line oiler.

If you only use it a little you can keep it oiled before use and during storage and you'll be fine.

DO NOT use ANY non-refillable fuel bottles. They are not rated for repeated compression/decompression cycles, they flex and the metal fatigues which can cause catastrophic failure, which could end up doing property damage and hurt/kill people in the immediate area.

If you want more storage look on ebay and craigslist for an old compressor or compressor tank and just plumb it properly.

More volume will only buy you more time before your compressor kicks in and longer for it to kick out. If you expect to use the impact wrench a lot, you'll need a properly sized compressor for it.

 

[tino_ale]

Thanks for the input. I'll stay away from dirty tank hacks (I was suspicious about that one, lol) 😀

About the air wrench : no I do not intend to use it massively like a they are constantly used in some shops. On the other hand I want to protect my investment since I pulled the trigger on what seem to be the king of 1/2 impact wrench : the Ingersoll Rand 2135QTiMAX

I intend to spray some 3-in-1 oil in the wrench inlet before use. It won't hurt either right before storage.

My understanding is that a cheap oiler does the job. I might get one if I get tired of spraying 3-in-1 oil.

On the other hand could you recommend a decent water trap + filter ? I want something that will protect my investment, does the job, for the least money. Does a HF do that ? I am worried that without a water trap the wrench could rust internally

Also another question : the IR documentation states the gun has a NPTF threaded inlet. Can I safely use "normal" NPT quick coupler plugs or do I need to source a NPTF threaded plug ?

Sorry for the many questions

 

[unterhausen]

I don't recommend 3 in 1 for anything. Get some air tool oil, it's cheap

Don't worry too much about the quick coupler plugs, pipe threads are crude and it is expected that you will have to make up for their deficiencies by using teflon tape or pipe compound

 

[65535]

Agreed, air tool oil is very cheap and does what it's supposed to do, I don't much care for HF stuff, I'm sure it would help.

Your best bet is a particulate filter/water trap and a motor guard filter after that.

A few drops of air tool oil before you start and after you are done will be fine. Just note it doesn't take much, you put a ton in and it will spray everywhere out the exhaust.

Your normal fittings are fine, just make sure you are VERY careful when taping it up, if you use tape you don't want any getting in your Impact wrenches air motor.

 

[tino_ale]

Ok then, I will get an air water trap/filter.

What is the matter with 3-in-1 oil ? Ok air tool oil may be cheap but I have 3-in-1 on hands so I would prefer not to have to buy more stuff if it's not necessary...

 

[saltytri]

Well I was getting tired of my compressors cheap regulator giving poor airflow and not regulating the air pressure very well, it was commonly 10-20psi below what it should have been when I set it.

So eBay supplies me a nice pair of CoilHose 3/8" regulators.

The only issue was the guage ports only read outlet pressure not line pressure, so I had to plumb the tank pressure guage into the pressure switch ports.

Flow is great and regulation is very precise, if anyone really needs a good regulator for their quincy or something these things are great.

I have the same compressor and the same problem. Could you be a little more specific about your mod? Like, what goes where and why. Thanks!!

 

[65535]

All I did was remove the old regulator and pipe nipple, then add a new piece of 1/4"x4" brass pip and a new regulator, then added the gauges.

On the regulator I purchased I had to put a gauge on the pressure switch port because the regulator only has outlet pressure ports on it. The picture show it pretty clearly.

 

[saltytri]

All I did was remove the old regulator and pipe nipple, then add a new piece of 1/4"x4" brass pip and a new regulator, then added the gauges.

On the regulator I purchased I had to put a gauge on the pressure switch port because the regulator only has outlet pressure ports on it. The picture show it pretty clearly.

Good deal. It sounded like it might be more complicated than that. I'll get the same regulator and, while I'm at it, add a ball valve to the drain like Will's. Thanks!

 

[65535]

Yeah I added a ball valve drain to mine, much better.

Also you can use any size regulator if you get the proper fittings to adapt. Mine is 3/8" so I need 1/4" x 3/8" NPT bushings.

 

[tino_ale]

Isn't THIS really cheap ???
Sorry no, it seems not

 

[Wattnot]

Wow. I never knew air compressors had such a following!

Maybe you guys can help me out. I just put this one up for sale. Am I asking the right price? The guy I bought it from years ago said Sanborns are great. However, I have a very large yard and lots of zones and it takes me forever to blow out my sprinklers so I took a friends 6hp Craftsaman no oil 33 gallon unit (great deal) and put mine up for sale.

I don't paint or run pneumatic tools . . . all I do is fill tires and blow out my sprinklers.

 

[65535]

Wow. I never knew air compressors had such a following!

Maybe you guys can help me out. I just put this one up for sale. Am I asking the right price? The guy I bought it from years ago said Sanborns are great. However, I have a very large yard and lots of zones and it takes me forever to blow out my sprinklers so I took a friends 6hp Craftsaman no oil 33 gallon unit (great deal) and put mine up for sale.

I don't paint or run pneumatic tools . . . all I do is fill tires and blow out my sprinklers.

Honestly, I would put the Craftsman no oil up for sale and keep the Sanborn.

You're right that thing will run forever and a half, the oil free is NOT 6HP and will not last too long imo.

But that's just my opinion, it should move at that price.

 

[precisionworks]

6hp Craftsaman no oil 33 gallon

The Craftsman makes 6.4 scfm at 80 psi, meaning that the motor is producing 2 hp. The Sanborn is also a 2 hp unit (well fed North American horses, not Shetland ponies). Since both are equal hp & equal scfm, the oil lubed Sanborn is the one to keep. Much more quiet, many times longer lasting.

I would put the Craftsman no oil up for sale and keep the Sanborn.

+1

 

[Wattnot]

I don't find my Sanborn quiet at all. In fact, I believe the Sears is a tad quieter. The oil makes a mess and blowing out the sprinkers takes me about 3 hours with all of the pausing for recharge. Each zone has several hundred feet of line so I need a sustained 40 pounds to make anything happen. I know the Sears won't give me that either but I was hoping the larger tank and faster charge time would help. When the pressure gets too low I believe the air is just passing over the water and not pushing it out. The model number of the Sears is 919.167340.

 

[65535]

Have you heard the oil less run?

Very few oil-less are quieter, the only notable exceptions are Thomas and Gast compressor, both of which will cost over $2k for a new 2HP unit, and around $3k for a tank and pressure switch.

Thomas has a contractor type compressor which is a 2HP unit small size, and good recharge time. It'll run you around $650.

Otherwise avoid them like the plague.

If your Sanborn is really louder than the oil-less Craftsman then something is amiss with your Sanborn, and some quick work should get it shut up nicely. A good start is a larger inlet filter, flows more air and quiets the unit down.

 

[precisionworks]

A good start is a larger inlet filter

+1

Quite a few intake filter silencers are available for $25-$50: http://www.drillspot.com/products/40166/Solberg_FS-19P-150_Intake_Filter_Silencer?s=1

The oil makes a mess

The oil in the compressor pump should make no more mess than the oil in your car's motor. If the pump has been overfilled it may run out when the unit is moved, but otherwise the oil should not cause a problem.

blowing out the sprinkers takes me about 3 hours with all of the pausing for recharge.

You have the classic Catch 22 ... trying to make a small (120 volt) compressor do a job that requires a large (240 volt) unit. You may want to consider these other options:

Use a CO2 tank, available at welding supply stores. Or use a dry Nitrogen tank, available from the same sources. You'll have any pressure you want & will not have to wait to use it.

Run a compressor using your cars engine for power. Lots of online articles on how to do this: http://coloradok5.com/york.shtml

 

[Wattnot]

Well you guys were right. I pulled the ad (the link above is now dead) and I'm selling the Sears oil free instead.

I double checked and the new one is a little louder. It's a different kind of sound but the Sears is overall louder than the Sanborn.

I ordered new filters so we'll see if that helps anything but it took only 2.5 minutes for mine to reach about 105 pounds and shut off. I stopped the Sears after 8 minutes but to be fair it was at around 145 pounds. I wasn't watching the meter to see how long it took to reach 105.

The oil mess from mine comes from the drain plug (I think). Is that bad?

Thanks guys!

 

[65535]

If it's leaking oil you'll need to pull the plug, drain the compressors then inspect the seal. May need to chase the threads or just add oil resistant thread sealant to the plug when you install it.

Then top off with good oil.

 

[Wattnot]

Need you guys again . . .

I emailed Eric at Master Tool Repair and about the oil getting in the tank he said this:

The reason you get oil in the tank is probably because one or more of the valves in the pump are sticking, allowing air to be pulled up into the head and into your supply line and tank.
This would require valve replacement, but the valves for this pump are unfortunately not available any longer; this being the case I would let it be for now, and if it gets worse you may want to install a new pump on the tank.

So I'm wondering if I should sell it now while it's still in decent shape (it's not a lot of oil, just a few drops come out when you're draining it and it's probably mixed with condensation anyway).

So for my home, non-pro uses, what would be a good compressor for under $500 new? Here is one I found on the Home Depot site:

Husky 2.0 Running HP 30 Gallon Vertical Compressor 
Model # VT6315 Internet # 100063473 
Store SKU # 723883 
$416.00/EA-Each

Here is a direct link to it. Any other suggestions are welcomed.

 

[precisionworks]

what would be a good compressor for under $500 new

You don't get much for that money ... the unit you referenced is a 1.5 hp "spec built" model, meaning that Home Depot said Build us something that we can sell for $416, and use the lowest quality parts available that will get the unit through the warranty period. Don't worry about durability or service after the sale, just make something to sell for that price.

It's an interesting concept, and lots of buyers place more importance on price than on performance or cost (which is total dollars spent over the lifetime of the product).

The Eaton units get good reviews & will be making air long after the Home Depot compressor is part of the landfill, but is well over $500:

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catalog/item/733537/344943.htm

It does make 3X the cfm of the Big Box unit, so you won't have to wait nearly as long for the tank to recharge. And the warranty is 5 years, versus 2 years.