RepProdigious
Enlightened
Hi all, this will be my first review here and English is not my native language so please be gentle! I'm also aware that this tiny light has been reviewed before but since all those different reviews helped me choose i figured one more couldn't hurt :candle:
I recently bought two different versions K-109 (3 and 5 mode) at KD/DX resp. to compare the lights and shipping times.... Unfortunately i forgot about the whole new-years thing over in china so there was no real way to compare shipping but here's my little review on these two lights!
1) K-109 - bought at KD, JAN 2010 - ID 6975-SKU S006968, 3-mode orange rings/clicky - $19 - right light in pics w orange accents
2) K-109 - bought at DX, JAN 2010 - SKU 28545, 5-mode GITD rings/clicky- $13 - left light in pics with green accents
3) *UPDATE* AK-16 - bought at KD, MAR 2010* - ID 6671-SKU S006734, 3-mode orange rings/clicky - $23 - The pics with black backdrop sometimes next to the 3-mode
*) Note; On KD this light is labeled as "PDC AK-16" and not AKOray. Also, like my other AKOray ordered from KD this one took its time; from order placed to actually shipped took 1 month (and then another 5 days from hong kong to the Netherlands)! It is however worth the wait!!!
1) 3-mode Overall experience; Wow! What a great light for this kind of money! Very nice machining on the entire light, nice surface treatment and a good amount of O-rings! A 20 buck light that feels like a $50 worth!
HEAD: Shell - 9,5/10! Mine came with just the slightest scratch and thats why it didn't get a 10 for me. The head is completely anodized (or whatever it is), including the threads so those are not good for conductivity (but they don't have to).
Reflector/Lens - 9/10. Lens is just simple, no nonsense lens. The reflector seems to be chromed aluminium, there's some roughness on the bottom that looks like a solder blob but it isn't... Doesn't hurt performance tho. There's a nice O-ring where the lens meets the head shell.
LED pill - GREAT! 10/10. Nice machined aluminium puck to hold the guts and LED, great deep square threads and two o-rings on the LED side (top) that meet with the flat end in the head after the threads! The terminal to connect to the battery looks like brass placed in a thick plastic base. I have not opened up the pill.
BODY: Battery tube; 10/10, machining just as perfect as the head, beautiful deep square threads and two o-rings where the body meets the head. These two O-rings however are not thick enough for a good tight seal! The inside dimension is somewhat large for a primary (slight rattle), protected cells should not be a problem. The whole body has the same treated surface as the head, the top of the tube has been machined clean to provide good conductivity for the LED pill, as are the threads on the bottom where the body meets the clicky-housing. There's also two little notches for the clip in the body.
Markings front/back: AKOray / P.D.C. 0.7-4.5V DC K-109
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 10/10, same great quality as the head and body. Only the part that's visible when assembled has surface treatment, the threads and inside are bare metal. There's one O-ring where it meets the body.
Clicky; 6/10 The clicky is of low-ish quality and this in combination with the flat/stiff rubber button makes it slightly hard to operate. The clicky is squeezed in place by a plastic ring (no soldering here) that ring also holds the somewhat flimsy spring, but its all stiff enough to do its job.
CLIP: 7/10. I don't really like the thing but its pretty OK i guess, even has a rubber on it so not to damage the light's body.
All the threads and o-rings came untreated, even a bit dirty! After a quick clean and lubejob it was all incredibly smooth!
FUNCTIONALITY:
-3 Programmable modes with memory (0-100% - two speed blink - strobe with adjustable speed - SOSOSO)
-White light, bright for a cr123 light, nice throw
- 880mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 14mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
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2) 5-mode Overall experience; Disappointing. It's all just less quality than the 3-mode. I know its cheaper but only by like $5 dollars it feels way cheaper than that however! I took it out of the package, put a battery in and turned it on; No light :S Threads were incredibly dirty....
A 13 buck light that feels like a $9,99 light from the discount bin.
HEAD: Shell 7,5/10. The head has been surface treated but it appears the threads has been cut after that because they are bare aluminium. The threads are also not cut as deep and clean as the 3-mode. The heads inside diameter feel to wide for the LED-pill, its sitting loose in there when not screwed down tight, and it feels all wobbly on disassembly.
Reflector/lens - 8/10. Lens is quite a bit thicker than on the 3-mode. The reflector diameter appears smaller than on the 3-mode and the outside its tapered in stead of straight like on the 3-mode so its also wobbly. There's a very thick O-ring between the glass and the head-shell.
LED Pill - Horrible! 5 /10. The pill-housing is made from the flimsiest thinnest aluminium they could find and the machines threads are as flimsy as the material. The LED sits in a plastic ring with too small dimensions and the bottom has nothing at all, just exposed electrical board with a circle and a ring on it, the inner circle makes the connection to the battery and the outer ring is soldered to the outside pill housing. Because of the thinness of the housing its a sh!tty job to take it out because you cant get a nice thick tool in there to turn it out. Not a friendly design!
BODY: Battery tube: 7/10. Same rough sharp but not deep enough threads as the head again without any surface treatment. The head screws on horribly bad, there's a lot of play between the threads and all feels rough! The two GITD O-rings that mate up with the head however are great, nice and thick! The inside diameter is just right for a primary, might not fit all protected cells. The threads are the conducting parts here and not the top of the tube. There's two notches in the body for the pocket clip.
Markings front/back: AKOray K-109/CREE LED
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 9/10, better in quality than the head and body. Only the part that's visible when assembled has surface treatment, the threads and inside are bare metal and rough. There is a single GITD O-ring where it meets the body.
Clicky; The clicky is of low-ish quality and this in combination with the flat/stiff GITD rubber button makes it slightly hard to operate. The clicky is squeezed in place by a plastic ring (again, no soldering here) that ring also holds the somewhat flimsy spring, but its all stiff enough to do its job. This bottom is harder to disassemble than the 3-mode.
CLIP: 5/10. I don't really like clips anyways but this one is crappy for any clip. Flimsy steel, no rubber to protect the body
The GITD O-ring actually were lubed on this one but unfortunately everything was so dirty that the light wouldn't even turn on at first. Everything was covered in a thick layer of aluminium chips/powder and excess solder.
FUNCTIONALITY:
-5 permanent modes without memory (high, medium, low, medium strobe, SOS)
-Very ugly green light, about 60% brightness of the 3 mode [*edit* this green tint only becomes visible if powered with anything under 3.3 volts give or take]
- 310mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 15mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
3) AK-16 Overall experience; Quality wise exactly the same as the 3-mode 109 so this is another keeper!!! Inserting a CR123a sized cell is just as easy as in the other lights, inserting a AA sized cell however is a bit fiddly so if you're planning on running this primarily on those i suggest you try the 106! But if you like me intend to run it 99% on 16340's and only see the AA as a nice backup feature in case of emergencies this is recommended 101%
HEAD: Shell - 10/10! Exact same part as 109 3-mode.
Reflector/Lens - 9/10. Exact same part as 109 3-mode.
LED pill - GREAT! 10/10. Same story as the 109 3-mode, with one obvious exception; The bottom of the pill (where it meets the battery) has a sleeve and a spring to compensate for different size batteries.
BODY: Battery tube; 10/10, again basically the same as on the 109 3-mode but then 16mm longer.
Markings front/back: AKOray / P.D.C. 0.7-4.5V DC AK-16
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 8/10, same part as on the 109 3-mode, however the plastic part to hold everything in place has a sleeve like the head and the spring is a bit weaker and tapers more heavily (so it can flatten a bit better i guess). This 'new' plastic part however also has a disadvantage: The lip running around the outside of the part (to prevent it from slipping into the bottom-part completely) is too thick and because of this the bottom wont screw in all the way! Functionality-wise this is no biggy (the o-ring still meets up with the wall like its supposed to do, so its still waterproof) but it just doesn't look right hence the lower rating.......
Clicky; 6/10; See 109 3-mode
CLIP: 7/10. See 109 3-mode
All the threads and o-rings came untreated an dirty as suspected! After a quick clean and lubejob it is now all incredibly smooth!
FUNCTIONALITY:
-Above all; Able to run on all AA and CR123a sized cells and alike (heck, i even managed to get a AAA in there and the AK16 even ran good on that one.... however i highly doubt 1.5A+ will do the little cell any good)
-3 Programmable modes with memory (0-100% - two speed blink - strobe with adjustable speed - SOSOSO)
-Nice white light, bright on li-ion secondary - dims fast on 1.2-1.5V cells
- 830mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 13mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
- 1.4A @ 100% brightness on fresh eneloop
- 60mA @ lowest low on fresh eneloop
- 1.3A @ 100% brightness on out-of-the-box exp. 2017 Panasonic ESSENTIAL power Alkaline
- 55mA @ lowest low on out-of-the-box exp. 2017 Panasonic ESSENTIAL power Alkaline
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Moral of the story *REVISITED*
If your in the market for one of these, its 101% worth it to break the bank
p) and get one of the more expensive programmable versions because the only thing the 5-mode has over the programmables are the GITD goodies (if you're into that kind of thing). So if you're looking for a CR123a only sized light i suggest the 3-mode, if you'd like the AA as a backup feature you can also consider the AK-16 but DONT buy the latter for running primarily on AA-sizes because fitting those cells is a fiddly business!
Here's alot of pics, apologies for the lube on the 3-mode:
Here you can see the quality a bit better on the 3-mode, nice and clean:
Result if you put the best bits of both models together;
[Update 5 march 2010]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I received my rechargeable batts today and immediately ran some tests with the 3-mode, beamshots will follow shortly;
-The AW's cells will fit with room to spare!!
-On full power given enough time the 'head temperature' will rise up to as much as 45 degrees Celcius at ambient 15 °C! So these will double as nice hand-warmers during winter-times! I did some heavy duty heatsinking and thanks to this the lights temperature protection didn't kick in (without this little mod it would kick in under 5 minutes). The battery tube also warmed up quite a bit but not even close to the temperature measured at the head so in my book its still safe enough for the Li-ion cells (this temperature could shorten lifespan in the long run tho)
-It will drain a fully charged battery (750mAh @ 3.7V nominal new generation protected AW) in about an hour at 100% output, so that would be about 1C so the batteries can handle this light OK.
-If the light is set to run on 'unprotected cell' mode the lights protection (i guesstimate 2.5V under load) will kick in before the battery circuit (2.45V) by lowering output and blinking twice on a 5 second interval or so(and in minutes the cells undervoltage protection will kick in and kill the light)
[Update 8th April 2010]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I promised you guys some beamshots, here they are! My apologies for the quality (and the un-ironed drapery sheet) but this is my first go at this kind of thing!
The setup:
FLRT: TK11 - AK-16 - 5-mode - 3-mode - fresh AW 2600mAh 18650 - fresh eneloop - new Alkaline - 3x fresh AW 750mAh 16340
Shots are taken from 1.4meters from the sheet, lights were placed 1.2m from the sheet, hight visible in pics (top-bottom) is roughly 1m.
All single beam beamshots were taken at the same aperature/shutterspeed (F4.0 1/8 ISO50 for those interested ), the multishots vary because the brightness produced was too high for that same setting so only use the multi-shots to compare the beams/brightness you see in that single pic.... and i kinda 'eyeballed' the white-balance on the camera so the beam tints look like i felt like they should look I added the TK11 as sort of a comparison/control piece.
Light tint/current wise the AK16 and the 3-mode are very very similar (this confirms my hunch that the internals are exactly the same but ill have to open em up one day to be 100% sure) so when comparing the primary cells in the AK16 i measured that one up to my 3-mode.
TK11 @ high
TK11 @ low
AK-16 16340 @ high (830mA)
AK-16 eneloop @ high (1.4A)
AK-16 16340 @ low (13mA)
5-mode @ high (310mA)
5-mode @ low (15mA)
3-mode @ high (880mA)
3-mode @ low (14mA)
FLTR TK11 @ low - AK-16 @ high (830mA) - 5-mode @ high (310mA) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
FLTR AK-16 @ low (13mA) - 5-mode @low (15mA) - 3-mode @ low (14mA)
FLTR AK-16 eneloop @ high (1.4A) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
FLTR AK-16 Alkaline @ high (1.3A) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
Oh, and ALL of these lights have the same outside dimensions on the head part, so all fit my 'gynecologists-tool' (i cant help it, thats how my lady calls the thing)
Click the pic for more info!
I recently bought two different versions K-109 (3 and 5 mode) at KD/DX resp. to compare the lights and shipping times.... Unfortunately i forgot about the whole new-years thing over in china so there was no real way to compare shipping but here's my little review on these two lights!
1) K-109 - bought at KD, JAN 2010 - ID 6975-SKU S006968, 3-mode orange rings/clicky - $19 - right light in pics w orange accents
2) K-109 - bought at DX, JAN 2010 - SKU 28545, 5-mode GITD rings/clicky- $13 - left light in pics with green accents
3) *UPDATE* AK-16 - bought at KD, MAR 2010* - ID 6671-SKU S006734, 3-mode orange rings/clicky - $23 - The pics with black backdrop sometimes next to the 3-mode
*) Note; On KD this light is labeled as "PDC AK-16" and not AKOray. Also, like my other AKOray ordered from KD this one took its time; from order placed to actually shipped took 1 month (and then another 5 days from hong kong to the Netherlands)! It is however worth the wait!!!
1) 3-mode Overall experience; Wow! What a great light for this kind of money! Very nice machining on the entire light, nice surface treatment and a good amount of O-rings! A 20 buck light that feels like a $50 worth!
HEAD: Shell - 9,5/10! Mine came with just the slightest scratch and thats why it didn't get a 10 for me. The head is completely anodized (or whatever it is), including the threads so those are not good for conductivity (but they don't have to).
Reflector/Lens - 9/10. Lens is just simple, no nonsense lens. The reflector seems to be chromed aluminium, there's some roughness on the bottom that looks like a solder blob but it isn't... Doesn't hurt performance tho. There's a nice O-ring where the lens meets the head shell.
LED pill - GREAT! 10/10. Nice machined aluminium puck to hold the guts and LED, great deep square threads and two o-rings on the LED side (top) that meet with the flat end in the head after the threads! The terminal to connect to the battery looks like brass placed in a thick plastic base. I have not opened up the pill.
BODY: Battery tube; 10/10, machining just as perfect as the head, beautiful deep square threads and two o-rings where the body meets the head. These two O-rings however are not thick enough for a good tight seal! The inside dimension is somewhat large for a primary (slight rattle), protected cells should not be a problem. The whole body has the same treated surface as the head, the top of the tube has been machined clean to provide good conductivity for the LED pill, as are the threads on the bottom where the body meets the clicky-housing. There's also two little notches for the clip in the body.
Markings front/back: AKOray / P.D.C. 0.7-4.5V DC K-109
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 10/10, same great quality as the head and body. Only the part that's visible when assembled has surface treatment, the threads and inside are bare metal. There's one O-ring where it meets the body.
Clicky; 6/10 The clicky is of low-ish quality and this in combination with the flat/stiff rubber button makes it slightly hard to operate. The clicky is squeezed in place by a plastic ring (no soldering here) that ring also holds the somewhat flimsy spring, but its all stiff enough to do its job.
CLIP: 7/10. I don't really like the thing but its pretty OK i guess, even has a rubber on it so not to damage the light's body.
All the threads and o-rings came untreated, even a bit dirty! After a quick clean and lubejob it was all incredibly smooth!
FUNCTIONALITY:
-3 Programmable modes with memory (0-100% - two speed blink - strobe with adjustable speed - SOSOSO)
-White light, bright for a cr123 light, nice throw
- 880mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 14mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
2) 5-mode Overall experience; Disappointing. It's all just less quality than the 3-mode. I know its cheaper but only by like $5 dollars it feels way cheaper than that however! I took it out of the package, put a battery in and turned it on; No light :S Threads were incredibly dirty....
A 13 buck light that feels like a $9,99 light from the discount bin.
HEAD: Shell 7,5/10. The head has been surface treated but it appears the threads has been cut after that because they are bare aluminium. The threads are also not cut as deep and clean as the 3-mode. The heads inside diameter feel to wide for the LED-pill, its sitting loose in there when not screwed down tight, and it feels all wobbly on disassembly.
Reflector/lens - 8/10. Lens is quite a bit thicker than on the 3-mode. The reflector diameter appears smaller than on the 3-mode and the outside its tapered in stead of straight like on the 3-mode so its also wobbly. There's a very thick O-ring between the glass and the head-shell.
LED Pill - Horrible! 5 /10. The pill-housing is made from the flimsiest thinnest aluminium they could find and the machines threads are as flimsy as the material. The LED sits in a plastic ring with too small dimensions and the bottom has nothing at all, just exposed electrical board with a circle and a ring on it, the inner circle makes the connection to the battery and the outer ring is soldered to the outside pill housing. Because of the thinness of the housing its a sh!tty job to take it out because you cant get a nice thick tool in there to turn it out. Not a friendly design!
BODY: Battery tube: 7/10. Same rough sharp but not deep enough threads as the head again without any surface treatment. The head screws on horribly bad, there's a lot of play between the threads and all feels rough! The two GITD O-rings that mate up with the head however are great, nice and thick! The inside diameter is just right for a primary, might not fit all protected cells. The threads are the conducting parts here and not the top of the tube. There's two notches in the body for the pocket clip.
Markings front/back: AKOray K-109/CREE LED
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 9/10, better in quality than the head and body. Only the part that's visible when assembled has surface treatment, the threads and inside are bare metal and rough. There is a single GITD O-ring where it meets the body.
Clicky; The clicky is of low-ish quality and this in combination with the flat/stiff GITD rubber button makes it slightly hard to operate. The clicky is squeezed in place by a plastic ring (again, no soldering here) that ring also holds the somewhat flimsy spring, but its all stiff enough to do its job. This bottom is harder to disassemble than the 3-mode.
CLIP: 5/10. I don't really like clips anyways but this one is crappy for any clip. Flimsy steel, no rubber to protect the body
The GITD O-ring actually were lubed on this one but unfortunately everything was so dirty that the light wouldn't even turn on at first. Everything was covered in a thick layer of aluminium chips/powder and excess solder.
FUNCTIONALITY:
-5 permanent modes without memory (high, medium, low, medium strobe, SOS)
-Very ugly green light, about 60% brightness of the 3 mode [*edit* this green tint only becomes visible if powered with anything under 3.3 volts give or take]
- 310mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 15mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
3) AK-16 Overall experience; Quality wise exactly the same as the 3-mode 109 so this is another keeper!!! Inserting a CR123a sized cell is just as easy as in the other lights, inserting a AA sized cell however is a bit fiddly so if you're planning on running this primarily on those i suggest you try the 106! But if you like me intend to run it 99% on 16340's and only see the AA as a nice backup feature in case of emergencies this is recommended 101%
HEAD: Shell - 10/10! Exact same part as 109 3-mode.
Reflector/Lens - 9/10. Exact same part as 109 3-mode.
LED pill - GREAT! 10/10. Same story as the 109 3-mode, with one obvious exception; The bottom of the pill (where it meets the battery) has a sleeve and a spring to compensate for different size batteries.
BODY: Battery tube; 10/10, again basically the same as on the 109 3-mode but then 16mm longer.
Markings front/back: AKOray / P.D.C. 0.7-4.5V DC AK-16
BOTTOM: Clicky housing; 8/10, same part as on the 109 3-mode, however the plastic part to hold everything in place has a sleeve like the head and the spring is a bit weaker and tapers more heavily (so it can flatten a bit better i guess). This 'new' plastic part however also has a disadvantage: The lip running around the outside of the part (to prevent it from slipping into the bottom-part completely) is too thick and because of this the bottom wont screw in all the way! Functionality-wise this is no biggy (the o-ring still meets up with the wall like its supposed to do, so its still waterproof) but it just doesn't look right hence the lower rating.......
Clicky; 6/10; See 109 3-mode
CLIP: 7/10. See 109 3-mode
All the threads and o-rings came untreated an dirty as suspected! After a quick clean and lubejob it is now all incredibly smooth!
FUNCTIONALITY:
-Above all; Able to run on all AA and CR123a sized cells and alike (heck, i even managed to get a AAA in there and the AK16 even ran good on that one.... however i highly doubt 1.5A+ will do the little cell any good)
-3 Programmable modes with memory (0-100% - two speed blink - strobe with adjustable speed - SOSOSO)
-Nice white light, bright on li-ion secondary - dims fast on 1.2-1.5V cells
- 830mA @ 100% brightness on fresh AW 16340
- 13mA @ lowest low on fresh AW 16340
- 1.4A @ 100% brightness on fresh eneloop
- 60mA @ lowest low on fresh eneloop
- 1.3A @ 100% brightness on out-of-the-box exp. 2017 Panasonic ESSENTIAL power Alkaline
- 55mA @ lowest low on out-of-the-box exp. 2017 Panasonic ESSENTIAL power Alkaline
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Moral of the story *REVISITED*
If your in the market for one of these, its 101% worth it to break the bank
p) and get one of the more expensive programmable versions because the only thing the 5-mode has over the programmables are the GITD goodies (if you're into that kind of thing). So if you're looking for a CR123a only sized light i suggest the 3-mode, if you'd like the AA as a backup feature you can also consider the AK-16 but DONT buy the latter for running primarily on AA-sizes because fitting those cells is a fiddly business!Here's alot of pics, apologies for the lube on the 3-mode:
Here you can see the quality a bit better on the 3-mode, nice and clean:
Result if you put the best bits of both models together;
[Update 5 march 2010]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I received my rechargeable batts today and immediately ran some tests with the 3-mode, beamshots will follow shortly;
-The AW's cells will fit with room to spare!!
-On full power given enough time the 'head temperature' will rise up to as much as 45 degrees Celcius at ambient 15 °C! So these will double as nice hand-warmers during winter-times! I did some heavy duty heatsinking and thanks to this the lights temperature protection didn't kick in (without this little mod it would kick in under 5 minutes). The battery tube also warmed up quite a bit but not even close to the temperature measured at the head so in my book its still safe enough for the Li-ion cells (this temperature could shorten lifespan in the long run tho)
-It will drain a fully charged battery (750mAh @ 3.7V nominal new generation protected AW) in about an hour at 100% output, so that would be about 1C so the batteries can handle this light OK.
-If the light is set to run on 'unprotected cell' mode the lights protection (i guesstimate 2.5V under load) will kick in before the battery circuit (2.45V) by lowering output and blinking twice on a 5 second interval or so(and in minutes the cells undervoltage protection will kick in and kill the light)
[Update 8th April 2010]--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I promised you guys some beamshots, here they are! My apologies for the quality (and the un-ironed drapery sheet) but this is my first go at this kind of thing!
The setup:
FLRT: TK11 - AK-16 - 5-mode - 3-mode - fresh AW 2600mAh 18650 - fresh eneloop - new Alkaline - 3x fresh AW 750mAh 16340
Shots are taken from 1.4meters from the sheet, lights were placed 1.2m from the sheet, hight visible in pics (top-bottom) is roughly 1m.
All single beam beamshots were taken at the same aperature/shutterspeed (F4.0 1/8 ISO50 for those interested
), the multishots vary because the brightness produced was too high for that same setting so only use the multi-shots to compare the beams/brightness you see in that single pic.... and i kinda 'eyeballed' the white-balance on the camera so the beam tints look like i felt like they should look I added the TK11 as sort of a comparison/control piece.Light tint/current wise the AK16 and the 3-mode are very very similar (this confirms my hunch that the internals are exactly the same but ill have to open em up one day to be 100% sure) so when comparing the primary cells in the AK16 i measured that one up to my 3-mode.
TK11 @ high
TK11 @ low
AK-16 16340 @ high (830mA)
AK-16 eneloop @ high (1.4A)
AK-16 16340 @ low (13mA)
5-mode @ high (310mA)
5-mode @ low (15mA)
3-mode @ high (880mA)
3-mode @ low (14mA)
FLTR TK11 @ low - AK-16 @ high (830mA) - 5-mode @ high (310mA) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
FLTR AK-16 @ low (13mA) - 5-mode @low (15mA) - 3-mode @ low (14mA)
FLTR AK-16 eneloop @ high (1.4A) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
FLTR AK-16 Alkaline @ high (1.3A) - 3-mode @ high (880mA)
Oh, and ALL of these lights have the same outside dimensions on the head part, so all fit my 'gynecologists-tool' (i cant help it, thats how my lady calls the thing)
Click the pic for more info!
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