Amilite T3 Neo Power run on a rcr123

I just purchased some of these: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13810 to use in an Amilite T3 Neo. I just remembered, as I'm typing this, that I gave my little Ultrafire WF-138 rcr123 charger to my dad, last year. There is a switch on this charger that allows you to choose either 3.0v or 3.6v. I'll have to get another charger before I try them out.
 
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I have both 3.7v and 3.0v RCRs. sorry but I don't have an Amilite to try the 3.0v cells in. I just wanted to say that the 3.0v cells don't give good runtime in many lights I've tried them in. I've handled two Amilite's at a PhotonFest and they are real nice lights with beautiful beams, but the lack a good rechargeable option has prevented me from springing for one.
 
Hi Thrift,
Would you know if all of the 3.0v rcr's behave similarly? I hate to even buy another charger for these batteries, if they're only going to disappoint.

*Edit* I've been reading some and apparently the 3.0v rcr's need to be charged with a 3.6v charger: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163571
So, I guess I'm all set already for when they show up in the mail. Also, apparently Thrift's frustrations are shared by many that have tried 3.0v rcr's. It's not looking too promising at this point. :(

*Edit_#2_* This is encouraging: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2627023 ! :)
 
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I should add that all my RCRs are protected, and the protection circuit reduces the capacity of the cells. AFAIK all protected 3.0v RCRs have a limited capacity, which is usually lower than their rated capacity.
 
thanks for the replys
So i know these lights were great back in 2006 can any one " for sure tell me that it can use a RCR123 " as some CPF'ers say YES and some say NO any good mods to do on this light? cheers may thanks DocD
 
They still are great lights. I'd spring for a T5 myself because it is two stage. I don't see why the 3.0v RCR's wouldn't work but runtime may suffer. Don't try running it with a 3.7 RCR though, it won't handle it very long. I haven't modded one, but I'm sure some type of driver could be made to work as the light disassembles easily.
 
MARNAV1 is right. If you use a RCR123 in your Amilite T3, it will be very bright for a while, and then (quite soon) the LED will start to discolor. Eventually it will turn dark brown and burn out. Sometimes this happens within a very few hours of use.
 
any good mods to do on this light?

Yesterday I replaced the Luxeon III board with an SSC USWOH board, in my own Neo T3. It was definitely brighter but the tint was too cool for my liking, so I put the stock Luxeon board back in the light. The stock Luxeon emitter's bin is not marked on the back of the board, so there's no way to identify.
Today I remembered that I had a warmer tint SSC USVOH board somewhere, so I searched until I found it and then I replaced the stock board with this one. The tint is very pleasing, to me, and it's much brighter...so this emitter will remain in the light until perhaps I find something even better. I really appreciate how easy this light is to swap emitters, drivers, etc.:)
 
A 4100k Rebel emitter, on a star, showed up in the mail today:

rebel_1.jpg


Since the Rebel sits so low on the board (star), I had to use a second, blank, board behind it to raise the emitter to the correct height. I used Arctic Silver grease between the 2x boards and between the rear board and heatsink.
the output is very bright, but also very yellow:

rebel_2.jpg


I will have to try this outside when it's a bit darker, to assess this color/tint out of doors. I turned on another flashlight with a 5A-Q3 Cree in it, and it looked absolutely blue in comparison.
 
Soshine 3.0v batteries arrived, today, and fresh off the charger they were giving 3.84v. When put into a little Dereelight C2H, fresh from charger, they would not power this light in high-mode. Discharging them with the Dereelight 'til they would not even power this light in low-mode, they still tested @ 3.6v. I chanced it and put 1x into the Neo T3, but it would not even power the light. Into the bin these went, hardly more than 1 hour out of the package.
Next, I hope to try LiFePO4. I've ordered another Ultrafire WF-138 charger for these, already. Now, to order some cells. Will try to update this thread with this info, when available.:)
 
*latest update* My Amilite Neo T3 now looks like a Neo T5, since adding the T5 body and 2x stage tailcap. Also, my T3 is the earlier type, I believe, as it has a smooth reflector instead of the stippled/orange-peel surface type. Here is the only image that I have of it as it appears, now:
tint.jpg


...it's on the far right. The image is for a tint comparison and all lights are each on their individual low-mode. The T3's emitter is an SSC P4 USVOH and it's being driven @ 900ma by a non-stock driver, which allows me to use rcr123 cells. I get 30min high-mode/ 2hr 45min low-mode runtimes with an AW protected rcr123 cell. It's quite bright as is but, as "nanotech17" suggested, it could be 10% brighter (or more) by using a newer P4 U2SVOH emitter. Here's an image of the stock controller:
amicom_controller.jpg


I will try to find out if it's possible to change resistors to up the output from 550ma to 700ma, as I'm wanting to try a neutral-tint Cree XP-E emitter w/ Ledil Optic. I will also try to find out if some board component can be changed to allow rcr123 use, with this board. I'd like to shoot for a near 40min runtime with the stock board, rcr123, Cree neutral-tint XP-E and Ledil Optic.

*update_#2*
Here is an image with a Ledil 26deg Optic w/ modified holder for fitting over Luxeon Rebel Neutral-White 4100k emitter:
led_26deg_reb.jpg

and here is an image that shows the 4100k Rebel's tint, taken with daylight WB:
yellow.jpg

*note* There is no hotspot with the 26deg optic.
*update_3*
I cut away all 4x sides of the base of the optic holder so that it would allow the SSC P4 USVOH dome to fit (works also w/ Lux I, II, V, K2, etc.) Here's an image with the P4 driven @ 900ma, through the 26deg Ledil optic:
svo_tint.jpg


And since I'm doing a lot of changes I put the original driver back in, so here's the P4 USVOH @ 3.0v/550ma/26deg optic:
svo_3v.jpg

This is about 1/2 as bright as the rcr123/900ma driven LEDs above. I really like this optic as it lights up the whole yard, when the light is driven hard.

*edit_#4*
Stock controller @ 550ma, cr123, Ledil LXP M (26deg) optic and Cree XP-E R2_WG emitter. I put the, original, smooth reflector back in the light to try with the XP-E R2 emitter, but changed back to the Ledil 26deg optic. It's now brighter with the cr123 3.0v, 550ma current driven XP-E R2 from the stock controller, than it is with the non-stock 900ma driven SSC P4 USVOH, on rcr123:
cree%20xp-e_wg.jpg


I also have the Ledil LXP 10deg (D) and 6deg (RS) optics. I tried the 10deg, but didn't like having to move the light all around to see the same area covered by the 26deg lens. I have yet to try the 6deg lens in the light, yet.

*Update #5*
Here is an image of Neo T3 on Cree XP-E P4-7C 3000K and Lifepo4 cell:
cree%20xp-e_P4-7C_lifepo4.jpg

:)
 
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Hi i did think about this and i could run it off a AW IMR 16340 cell maybe DD or any suggestion on what driver i could use? i think maybe i'll make a custom heat sink? cheers DocD
 
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