Anodising ... or should that be Agonising ...

Ganp

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
468
Location
Bristol - England
For the uninitiated like myself getting something anodised can be problematic. Finding an anodising business willing to accept one-offs, or even small batches, can be difficult, and costs for small quantities are comparatively high.

The surface finish on the alloy will make a big difference to the final appearance, and it is essential that the anodisers know what alloy type they are treating for you - especially for hard anodising. Some alloy grades can not be hard anodised. In my simplistic understanding of the process they can not withstand the much higher current used during this process and the surface suffers badly. When things don't turn out as expected it would be all too easy to blame the anodisers, so I consult them before sending anything, and get their advice on preparation and finishing. I'm learning slowly.

But I'm still making mistakes. My latest was to assume that all alloy types which can be hard anodised can be treated together.

I sent several items of 6082 aluminium (the UK equivalent of 6061) and two of 7075 - and I did not tell the anodisers of the 7075 - so everything got treated as 6082.


Here is my 7075 McR45 head and bezel before anodising ...

McRpre-anodised.jpg



And here it is after going through the process with some 6082 items ... a sort of pebble dash finish.

IMG_0084copy.jpg




Very luckily for me the anodisers offered to chemically remove the anodising - for free - so that the items could be re-anodised properly. Unluckily of me, the first anodising had left quite a texture on the surface, so after they were stripped I had to re-machine them to get a good finish. But there is still some pitting left because I dared not remove too much metal. And all of this meant that the tolerances on the fine bezel threads were out - so I ended up having to make a new bezel too.


Another shock when it came back after re-anodising. Instead of the bronze tint I was expecting it was a flat grey colour. It looked OK on a grey body but it was not going to look good with a typical HA natural finish body.

IMG_0370copy.jpg




I washed it to see what happened. While it was wet it took the colour I had expected - but it just dried back to grey again.

So there was nothing left to do except put a little oil on the bezel threads and slick them up a bit.
WTF, the bezel threads took the expected colour. Just a dab of oil on the inside confirmed it. So I went for broke and oiled the whole head.


Voila!! ... Here it is ... sort of bronzy looking.

IMG_0376copy.jpg




I tried washing and degreasing it to see if it would turn grey again, but it didn't. It just went it a little less shiny. So, apart from a little pitting in places it now looks as I expected. But I don't know what gives with the grey finish. The guy I asked at the anodisers didn't know either.

Was I supposed to apply oil to bring out the colour? ... I didn't think so. So what is going on?


If this is a known phenomena, or an accepted practice, I would like to know. Anodising is costly enough without me making unnecessary mistakes.



Colin.
 
I did some research in to doing a home setup for anodizing. It can be done, but there are some things to consider.

Different aluminum alloys contain different metals. Aluminum alloy 6061 can go through a straight process, other alloys require desmutting to remove the other metals from the surface of the aluminum. If the aluminum is prepared correctly the resulting color should be the same.

Removing existing anodize will eat away at the aluminum, in most cases, that is fine. Fine threads can be a problem.

The following site gives a very good explanation of the process

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html
 
welcome to the world of unpredictable colors for hard anodizing.

general rule of thumb is to stay away from aluminum alloys with copper and other metals that gets attacked by sulfuric acid. typically those metals are alloyed with aluminum to increase hardness.

best to consult with anodizers as to what alloys to use for best results.

production plating shops makes $$ from large runs, not one off jobs. setup costs can eat up what ever profits from small jobs. for larger runs custom racks are setup and best runtimes and amp loads are known for best results.

it's been many years ago.. but I've personally anodized thousands of parts.

there's always risk part may not make solid contact and be destroyed during HA process.
 
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