I have a new way to figure this out, here is the ultimate AA EDC light for me.
1 Lumen low (to see in the dark and not wake people up)
10 lumen medium (for walking around)
100 lumen hight (whisky-tango-foxtrot is that?)
Now we go to runtime using a Sanyo Eneloop 2000mAH cell
1 lumen = 100 hours
10 lumens = 10 hours
100 lumens = 1 hours
Wait!... There is more!
Twist the head to adjust levels (magnet and coil way to signal changes)
Use a tail clickie to turn on and off.
Considering 100 lumens out the front would equal about 140 lumens or so from the LED, it would take about 1.5 amps from the Eneloop. No problem. Use copper for a heat sink to transfer to real HA-III (see FireFlyIII for instructions)
Use a Fraen FRC faceted reflector to smooth the beam without killing the throw. Feed it with the highest Cree XRE bin available so it will be durable.
Pot the electronics and use a gold-plated brass positive connection on the head.
Allow electronics to regulate from 1.0V to 4.2 volts and give a long "tail" when the battery is low.
Offer a 2AA body or and extender to fit AA/2AA requirements
Offer a "turbo head" to make a 2AA throwing monster!
Offer a sequence of head twists/clickie presses to enter into programming. Allow low-medium-high or high-medium-low to folks. Allow a sequence for the light to strobe/SOS if the user wants it.
Since I am dreaming, the three detents in the head to magnetically trigger the different levels (so you know the runtime) allow variable output between the levels by twisting the head.
Allow simple modules to replace LED modules to upgrade the light as LED bins improve.
Allow the light to tail stand
Put a keychain ring on it so a "lobster claw" can be clipped to it for attaching to things.
Knurl the damn thing so I can get a grip on it!
The turbo head should be available with light orange peel or smooth reflector for throw. (Turbo head is for throw!)
Put thermal regulation in the head so it can be used in very hot environments without blowing up.
Make a special model that will allow red and white (military and LEO use)
Optional 18650 lithium-ion and CR123A bodies if folks get into that.
Quality is key! DON'T cheap out on any component!
Build a tail switch that will handle 500,000 cycles! We can fly to other planets but nobody cares enough to make a decent switch!
Have optional lexan lens to replace the AR double-sided lens of the stock light. Heck, even include the optional lens so if your light is getting beat to hell, the lens won't break.
Allow optional titanium bezels and tail switch rings to protect the light when dropped. Throw in a glow in the dark tail switch cover and GID o-rings for the lens seal. Be seen or not be seen is up to you.
Flat-line current regulation but kick out before the battery is dead allowing a long dim tail of use.
Throw in a quick flash every minute when the battery is 80% used up.
Price it at least $100+ to allow critical evaluation.
Not that I am demanding or anything....
