Any ideas about the Muyshondt Beagle?

I tested level 4 with an AW IMR 18350 700mAH starting voltage 4.17. Started dimming at 2 hours on the nose. This was one continuous run without shutting the light off. I'm very pleased with the results.


EDIT: The battery used for testing is about a year old and has seen use. I'm not sure how significant that is in terms of potential available capacity but if anything it hurt the runtimes.
 
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LogicalBeard said:
[FONT="][FONT="]I think I understand better now. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]By "proper dark" you mean it gets dark sooner and you are able to make a better comparison. Muyshondt has a "darkwell" finish I thought you were referencing. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]While running you don't like the cylinder shape. A lanyard around the clip might work if that was your only grievance. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]I'm guessing you have the 005 model? I was wondering if you had the tri with the aspheric. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Ah you were just describing a UI you would like in theory. If a light press would give you a momentary boost, what method would you like to cycle through modes? Maybe a full quick click? Sounds interesting. Somebody should write the program for that. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]What mode do you use the Beagle in while running? 4? If so, does it last the stated two hours?[/FONT][/FONT]
Click to expand...

Sorry, my stream of consciousness is not helping.

Yes, proper dark = late autumn, early winter. Testing 9pm now is more revealing than 11am late July. As it happens. I have the Frosted finish - nice but I would go polished next time.

The Haiku has ribbing and contouring which does help. I feel the Beagle needs the lovely knurling - and it is very nice - up around the smooth head, where my thumb and forefinger grip it.

I was describing what I would like to have -apologies to Archimedes for very poorly describing this. Maybe the Double Tap that the Prometheus Alpha (I think)has?

I hope to be out Wednesday night and will keep at Level 4, will let you know the duration I get.

EDIT: I have a 007, XM-L2 from before Data introduced the current Ultra model. To change batteries you need to push a little button - a PITA in the middle of nowhere. Would love to get one with the Vault cap but spending another $1800-ish just for the Vault cap? A bit too extravagant, even for me...
 
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thenikjones said:
Sorry, my stream of consciousness is not helping....

I was describing what I would like to have -apologies to Archimedes for very poorly describing this. Maybe the Double Tap that the Prometheus Alpha (I think)has? ....
Click to expand...

No worries, but I just couldn't understand what you were wanting ... a "SureFire tactical" type switch (forward press for more light, release for less, twist for lock, no click) , or an HDS type e-switch with press-hold (momentary high) vs click-press-hold-release (locked high) , or forward vs reverse clicky, or something else altogether :thinking:
 
thenikjones said:
Sorry, my stream of consciousness is not helping.

Yes, proper dark = late autumn, early winter. Testing 9pm now is more revealing than 11am late July. As it happens. I have the Frosted finish - nice but I would go polished next time.

The Haiku has ribbing and contouring which does help. I feel the Beagle needs the lovely knurling - and it is very nice - up around the smooth head, where my thumb and forefinger grip it.

I was describing what I would like to have -apologies to Archimedes for very poorly describing this. Maybe the Double Tap that the Prometheus Alpha (I think)has?

I hope to be out Wednesday night and will keep at Level 4, will let you know the duration I get.

EDIT: I have a 007, XM-L2 from before Data introduced the current Ultra model. To change batteries you need to push a little button - a PITA in the middle of nowhere. Would love to get one with the Vault cap but spending another $1800-ish just for the Vault cap? A bit too extravagant, even for me...
Click to expand...


As long as level 4 for has enough throw for you. I would be interested in your runtimes.

The Prometheus Alpha seems like it would have a good beam profile for your application but I can't say since I'm only going on reviews and what little I have seen from Jason's videos.

I love those spy's but I will probably never have one. It would be hard to change the batteries in the dark with that little bead I suppose. If you know how long your runs usually are, seems like you could program your output to match up pretty well. Does your spy get the most use?
 
I want a way to quickly access the next level, but not permanently switch to it. Not sure how to do this - I have an old Fenix with a bezel ring which might work, the SPY knob is perfect. The issue I have with the Beagle is cycling through 5 levels is a PITA. It is a 1st world problem, I accept. Overall, the positives outweigh the negatives.
 
I would love an Alpha but spent enough this year - have his pen and the AAA light so I know it'll be a work of art in the hand. If money grew on trees I'd be getting a McGizmo Aqua, too.

My SPY is dialled in pretty well, although modes 4 and 5 are rather close - something to tinker with over Christmas. It is not cheap but if you can play with one, I am sure you'd love it. I would love to have a Tri-V but $4500 is too rich for meI'd find it a bit of a faff - the 007 with 6 levels for one emitter is great. 6 levels for a mix of 3 emitters seems a bit limiting. I'd need to live with one for some time to make the choice and that will never happen.

My SPY is my most used torch, the size is perfect, doesn't roll, stable as anything. Settings from about 2mA to 3300mA. My flexible friend.
 
I'm surprised nobody has said anything about the new copper finishes.
The new frosted finish is interesting, he doesn't have any information on what exactly they did to the copper.
And the new version of the relic finish seems to be much darker than it was before. Almost black. Looks to me like maybe it's now being heat treated to achieve the super dark color.
 
So what's the verdict guys? It seems to me there have been some (early) issues but are they resolved by now? probably isolated cases. 😉
 
InvisibleFrodo said:
What are those? I'd like to be aware of what to watch for...
Click to expand...

Based on my limited readings (take note I don't own one; these are unverified, so please take it lightly):

-pwm or circuit noise on 4th level (from a proto)
-cross threading at the tailcap
-sensitivity of the reverse clicky
 
xdayv said:
Based on my limited readings (take note I don't own one; these are unverified, so please take it lightly):

-pwm or circuit noise on 4th level (from a proto)
-cross threading at the tailcap
-sensitivity of the reverse clicky
Click to expand...

And squeaky noise when operating the tail switch.

No issues on mine.
 
xdayv said:
Based on my limited readings (take note I don't own one; these are unverified, so please take it lightly):

-pwm or circuit noise on 4th level (from a proto)
-cross threading at the tailcap
-sensitivity of the reverse clicky
Click to expand...

And squeaky noise when operating the tail switch.

No issues on mine.
 
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I did some testing with SF12-BB surefire CR123As. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]When the current can't sustain level 5, level 3 is also the dropped. In practice when cycling through modes you get level 1, (normal rated output), level 2 (normal rated output), level 3 (same output as mode 2), level 4 (normal rated output), and level 5 gives you the same output as level 4. Next, level 4 will decrease in brightness until finally the center emitter shuts off. Then one can cycle back through to turn on the center emitter again with level 4 until finally it gives up. However, if the light stays on level 1 or 2 for a while, the battery voltage will come back up and, presto, you can get the center emitter to give a little output again. It's like the Energizer Bunny.[/FONT]
 
PWM on level 4 was only on prototype as far as I'm aware. And not really PWM but circuit noise

My main question is where are these manufactured????? I'm fairly confident they are made in China and that is glossed over due to negative connotations
 
Ozythemandias said:
PWM on level 4 was only on prototype as far as I'm aware. And not really PWM but circuit noise

My main question is where are these manufactured????? I'm fairly confident they are made in China and that is glossed over due to negative connotations
Click to expand...

You might be right. My cursory search couldn't find a "made in" reference. Do you think even the CNC work and assembling is done in China?
 
LogicalBeard said:
You might be right. My cursory search couldn't find a "made in" reference. Do you think even the CNC work and assembling is done in China?
Click to expand...

Chinese manufacturing has some bad reputation, but a lot of high end products are made in China. However, that can just mean that it is assembled in China. Often the materials and components will come from all over.

For whatever it's worth, often companies will specify that materials cannot come from China. I've worked for a company that has built equipment for NASA, and they have a list of countries in their contract that the raw materials cannot come from. It sounds like alloys made in China aren't necessarily the same as the equivalent alloys made in the US or Austria or Japan, etc.
 
I have now had the beagle turn on twice while clipped to my pocket. I only mention it because the only other nicer lights I have that have issues with turning on in my pocket are the 47's Preons (which also have a reverse clicky) and The Cool Fall Spy 007. My lights that use McClickies (Surefire P6, Prometheus Alpha, McGizmo Haiku) don't ever seem to turn on in my pocket.

I'll say that to me the build quality is about as good as it gets.

The user interface is very simple and straightforward. No mode memory so it always starts at the lowest setting if the light has been off for about 2 seconds or more. I would say that I prefer forward clickies, but the beagle is the first reverse clicky that I've really really liked. It makes me question which switch style I truly prefer... I can't even explain why exactly, but I prefer the reverse clicky of the Beagle to the reverse clicky of my Preon P2.
 
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