Any ideas about the Muyshondt Beagle?

If the problem is just that your clip screws sometimes get loose, it might be solvable with something as simple as some lock tite on the threads. You could use the red version if you want something more permanent, or the blue if you want it to be easy to remove in the future.
The lock-tite will work if there is threads in the screw hole but mine is almost bare so i dont think it will work
There is no pressure on the clip to the body to ensure the tension.

Anyway i have found an alternative which is to use a spare Surefire Z41 based clip & filling the screw holes with epoxy to retain the water-tightness.
 
Could someone like Precision Works drill the holes slightly larger and re-tap them and put new screws in? This might be more work than it's worth, I dunno.
 
Could someone like Precision Works drill the holes slightly larger and re-tap them and put new screws in? This might be more work than it's worth, I dunno.

I don't think so, the recess in the clip where the heads of the screws sit is very narrow, bigger screws with bigger heads would likely necessitate machining the slot in the clip bigger and there's not much to work with there...
 
Could someone like Precision Works drill the holes slightly larger and re-tap them and put new screws in? This might be more work than it's worth, I dunno.
Im not too sure about taping larger holes since the 2 screw holes are pretty close to each other & it will leave very little wall thickness between the 2 screw holes.
 
Devin (thetasigmas) posted a bushing he made to fit oveready loop style clips, might want to reach out to him.
 
Ahh that's right, the screw heads don't sit on top of the clip they nest inside it. You'd need a whole different clip. That's too bad.
 
The one year warranty period is scary enough to me, because I feel that a one year warranty is pretty short lived. But if they don't stand behind the product, that's even scarier. I appreciate the way they tried to offer a solution, I just wish there would have been a better way to resolve the issue on such an expensive product.

I can't speak for everyone's light, but on my light, the holes for the screws go all the way through the sidewall of the light. And the threads are tapped all the way through. But the screws are short and only go about half way through the sidewall. Meaning there is unused thread past the ends of the screws. Maybe a combination of longer screws to take advantage of the remaining threads and some locktite while trying really hard not to overnight end since you won't be threaded no into much material...
 
So I was out visiting my dad tonight when I looked inside my pocket, and the Beagle was on. But something was strange. The light was flickering. So the battery came out, and I checked the voltage. 2.05 volts. I never discharge below 3.7 or 3.6 volts. This is upsetting. This is the3rd time this light has come on in my pocket. And with no way to lock out the light, this is a problem I can't avoid. Now I might have ruined the battery, and it's not like it was from negligence. I'll be charging at 100 mah starting when I get home in about 10 minutes. Even if everything works out now I'll be wondering if or
how badly I've damaged the cell and or shortened its life expectancy.

For you guys to know, the light did not cut off at 2.5 volts. It didn't cut off.
 
For what it is worth, a solution to a loose clip or unsatisfactory clip tension, is to use an OR universal clip with a bushing to fill the space between the clip and OD of the tailcap.

It is important to note however, that anything other than swapping batteries VOIDs their 1-year, 1st owner warranty.


Example of an OR clip installed on my secondhand Beagle (hence no warranty anyway).
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Is there now a caveat not to use the the default clip as this will eventually be problematic?
 
I looked inside my pocket, and the Beagle was on... I checked the voltage. 2.05 volts. ... This is the3rd time this light has come on in my pocket. And with no way to lock out the light, this is a problem I can't avoid.
...
For you guys to know, the light did not cut off at 2.5 volts. It didn't cut off.

correct, the Beagle has no built in overdischarge protection, and the Muyshondt 183501 IMR has no protection circuit.
It would we safer to use a protected battery.

here is the info from Muyshondt's site:
Capable of running for hours on CR123s, Rechargeable CR123s, MPC-18350I cells, and Protected 18350 Lithium Ion cells. (Power Cell not included)

Re MPC-183501 cells:
For Electric Torches and*Specialized Devices
These power cells have been created specifically to operate inside the Beagle*Electric Torch. They are unprotected lithium ion cells with an IMR chemistry cathode, meaning that extra caution must be utilized when operating any device with them, and they are not recommended for inexperienced users...

Re: Lithium-Ion safety:
the end user must exercise caution when using any lithium device, including a Muyshondt Power Cell.
• If you let a cell drain below 2.7 volts, you can cause permanent damage to the cell that will at best greatly reduce the life of the cell, and at worst cause thermal venting.
• If you ever discharge a cell below 2.7V, or are ever in doubt about cell damage, stop using the cell and dispose of it properly through a local battery recycler.


I suggest you only use Protected cells in lights like the Beagle that have no built in overdischarge protection in the light. fwiw, most lights that are capable of using both rechargeable and disposable cells, do not have built in protection in the light. They rely on the user choosing to buy protected cells, or use disposable cells.

It is more complex to design a circuit that will let a CR123 run below 2.5 volts, while protecting a 16340 from going below 2.5v. HDS has circuitry that can recognize the difference between a CR123 and a 16340. So HDS can run unprotected 16340, relying instead on the overdischarge protection built into the light.

The Beagle does not have built in overdischarge protection, and no lockout function.
Since it can come on accidentally in a pocket, it would be safer to use protected cells, or disposables.
 
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I changed my clip because I don't like the stock clip, the holes are fine.

The bushing is literally just a little ring a smidge thinner than the clip
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Regarding protection, Enrique does not like it and does not include it on any of his lights. This is not a design flaw, it's a philosophy. I'm assuming that his reasoning is somewhere along lines that he'd rather damage battery then be left without a light when it's needed.

Devin and some others inspired me to attempt an emitter swap on my Beagle, I only had a 219b on hand so in it went. Anything is better than the gross XPL2, no clue why he chose that one. Even the lower output 219b out throws the XPL2 due to the smaller die, with amazing tint to boot.

Something interesting to note is that my light is a prototype, the pill was threaded. It seems that production lights don't have a threaded pill, it just slips in. I can't imagine any reason Enrique would make the conscious decision to remove threading (an obviously superior design) other than cutting costs. For someone that goes on and on about attention to detail and quality uber alles, here's an example of maybe cost savings uber quality. In a $500 light.
 
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