any one got dish tv?
- Thread starter raggie33
- Start date
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BIGIRON
Flashlight Enthusiast
Sounds too good to be true.
I've had Dish for years and am happy with it, but don't have HD tv yet. I did learn that I would have to buy a new box (like $300+) to get their HD channels, plus the monthly HD fee.
Will probably do that when get HD tv, but feel ripped off since they will give you, a new customer, a box for free or a few $$'s while I, a customer for 8+ years have to pay full price for one. Just marketing magic!!
I've had Dish for years and am happy with it, but don't have HD tv yet. I did learn that I would have to buy a new box (like $300+) to get their HD channels, plus the monthly HD fee.
Will probably do that when get HD tv, but feel ripped off since they will give you, a new customer, a box for free or a few $$'s while I, a customer for 8+ years have to pay full price for one. Just marketing magic!!
Nebula
Enlightened
Yes. I have Dish. This looks like an intro price for new customers only. You should read the fine print as it may be limited to as little as three months or it could go as long as six months. You will get the basic receivers with the promo - usually one with and one without PVR capability (but they are all HD and MPEG4 ready). Most of the HD channels that Dish offers come from the defunct VOOM line-up. ALL of the HD channels that Dish offers are downrezed. No provider - Satellite or cable - currently pushes true 1080i through the pipe. Don't even think about 1080p, as no OTA content is commerically available at this time. You can get 1080p via a few Blue-Ray and HD DVD disks. That said, unless your set has a native input for 1080p (hdmi and HDCP compliant) you won't get 1080p even with a proper BR or HD DVD disk. Not to worry though, even in its watered down state HD is still FAR better than 480i (NTSC std.) and 480p (native DVD).
As to the hdmi cable - NO. You will need to buy your own. Dish does not include hdmi with its new receivers. Don't spend a lot of $$ on the cable. Buy the legnth you need and no more. You can find them on line for reasonable prices. If you have to go local try BB or CC, and don't get sucked in to the Monster Cable pitch. It is good stuff but hardly worth the premium unless you intend to go premium throughout your system. I have several and they range in price from $30.00 to $200+ for a meter length. Yes, I can tell a difference in the more expensive cables. Is it worth it? For me it is. YMMV.
If you would like to provide more detail on your source components and mointor/projector I will be happy to give you a detailed analysis of your situation.
Good luck. Kirk
EDIT: Sorry, while I was writting you posted the contract length. Not bad. Not bad at all.
As to the hdmi cable - NO. You will need to buy your own. Dish does not include hdmi with its new receivers. Don't spend a lot of $$ on the cable. Buy the legnth you need and no more. You can find them on line for reasonable prices. If you have to go local try BB or CC, and don't get sucked in to the Monster Cable pitch. It is good stuff but hardly worth the premium unless you intend to go premium throughout your system. I have several and they range in price from $30.00 to $200+ for a meter length. Yes, I can tell a difference in the more expensive cables. Is it worth it? For me it is. YMMV.
If you would like to provide more detail on your source components and mointor/projector I will be happy to give you a detailed analysis of your situation.
Good luck. Kirk
EDIT: Sorry, while I was writting you posted the contract length. Not bad. Not bad at all.
raggie33 said:
Last edited:
raggie33
*the raggedier*
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2003
- Messages
- 14,659
ok ty for the help this is my tv hookup info it has only 1 of everything. so only thing i have left is a hdmi or s video .i have a xbox the old xbox it is useing the yellow type rca jack for video . my dvd progresive scan unitr is useing the video that uses 3 rca jacks for video.i have my antenna going to the dtv coaxil input .the antenna helps me get most the local in hd. i have the other regeler tv coaxil hooked up to my old cable tv..so realy all i got left is hdmi for the dish network hd box .btw it a dvr box and since i already have my dcd player one the one that uses 3 rca jacks for video i guess hdmi is my only option unless ya dont thin i will lose a lot by hooking up my dvd player to s video>?
swampgator
Enlightened
BIGIRON said:
I've had Dish for 5 years now and everytime I've had to get new equipment it's always been free if I "renew" my contract. Which is not a big deal since out here in the boonies, it's dish or nothing.
The exception of this was a few years back when we had to upgrade the dish to get local channels. It was going to be $50 for the dish upgrade. But they waived that since I renewed and opted to have my bill directly paid from my checking account.
But due to it being HD that could be a reason to charge you. I'd call and see what they are willing to do for you.
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BIGIRON
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks Gator.
I'll push the issue when I buy a HD tv. I should be able to find a HD box and card online for less than straight from Dish if they don't come around.
I'll push the issue when I buy a HD tv. I should be able to find a HD box and card online for less than straight from Dish if they don't come around.
Nebula
Enlightened
Raggaie - Here is a primer on connections. I can add more later if you have need. First, let me set out the resolution capability of each connector from worst to best (currently available in the mainstream). I will point out the downside only. Technical jargon is available if you really want to read about it. This will help you understand your current connections.
1. Coax - This is the input from your wall usually. Coax (F-pin connector) cable carries the audio and video on a single cable. Generally ok in short lengths as long as it is properly insulated and the cable's specs are sufficient to carry the signal. RG6 is generally accepted as the standard. If you have RG59 pull it out as it will not carry HD. You need at least 2Ghz for HD. Your display device will up-sample the incoming signal to 480p, or perhaps something higher (depends upon the capability of your sets internals and your settings).
2. RCA – A single yellow cable connector. Not much better than Coax. The main difference is that it separates the audio and video by using the red/white (or red/blue) analog cables to carry the audio. This assumes that all three connectors are present. Same up-sampling issue as noted in #1 above.
3. S-video - better than #s 1 & 2, but only because the cable splits the color and black and white signals. (Luminance and Chrominance). Audio must be carried on separate analog cables.
4. Component (a/k/a RGB) - Three cables combined into one unit. Purpose is to split the red, green and blue colors. The display device puts the signal back together. Component is an excellent way to go with progressive scan DVD players. Keep in mind that you lose some resolution (softening of the picture) going this route because the signal from the DVD is in the digital domain in the box. That signal is converted by the DVD player's DAC to analog before being fed to the component output. The signal travels the length of the component cables in analog before being converted again to digital (ADC) by the set. Depending upon your set, and its capabilities - up-sampling etc, you may have yet another conversion back to analog before you see what is on the display. Unfortunately there is not much you can do about this process without purchasing an expensive video processor. If you are happy with the signal then that is all that matters.
5. RGB/HV - rare. Mitsubishi's sets had this connection for a while. Basically it is RGB + H (horizontal) and V (vertical). The added connectors are generally yellow and white. Better than RGB, but still analog.
6. DVI- (comes in three flavors - DVI-A, DVI-D & DVI-I). You most likely will see DVI-D (digital) and DVI-I (analog and digital) on today's consumer sets. This connector will carry digital video signals, but will not carry audio. Some DVI cables are limited in bandwidth and will not carry 1080i at long lengths. Keep in mind that "long length" may be anything over 10 feet. DVI is on the way out, so I would not worry about it unless your set happens to have a DVI connection port.
7. HDMI - The newest connection format. HDMI is still in its early days, and can be confusing even to the experts (a club that I don't belong to). HDMI was created as a single cable solution for carrying video, audio, and command signals from one component to another. Like IEEE (a/k/a firewire) the components are supposed to "shake hands," tell each other about themselves and provide a pristine viewing experience. Sadly, it has not worked out as intended. The standards continue to evolve. Early HDMI could not shake hands, and when it did it did a poor job. That said, HDMI is the future. We should see incremental changes - for the better - over the next several years. Many of the newer systems are backwards compatible to fit into older (older in this case is anything more than a year old) systems. The downside for now is that the newer display devices with HDMI 2.0 and above cannot bring older devices up to the current standard. Your system is only as good as the weakest link.
7. HDCP - This is not a connector, but a standard for encrypting the signal. I add it because in order to resolve true 1080p (and in some cases 720p and 1080i) your source device (sat. box, dvd player etc.) will "talk" to the display device to confirm that the display device is HDCP (High Definition Content Protection) compliant. If not, you will get a downrezed signal (perhaps as low as 480p).
My advice - 1. you can keep your connections as they are and use the hdmi connection for the new Dish receiver. Just make sure that you reset the output on the Dish receiver to take advantage of hdmi. Dish may have changed this but for a very long time, in order to switch the inputs you had to start off in S-vid or coax. If the Dish dude is hooking you up he can do this for you. I would not use the S-vid for the DVD player. If anything, I might be tempted to use the S-vid for the X-box.
2. You can purchase a hdmi switcher. This will give you more hdmi ports for future source components. Most new DVD players have hdmi connectors. You will want to use it if you can. Remember the discussion on DAC & ADC from above? You can avoid the multiple conversions going with a switcher.
I do hope that this helps. Kirk
1. Coax - This is the input from your wall usually. Coax (F-pin connector) cable carries the audio and video on a single cable. Generally ok in short lengths as long as it is properly insulated and the cable's specs are sufficient to carry the signal. RG6 is generally accepted as the standard. If you have RG59 pull it out as it will not carry HD. You need at least 2Ghz for HD. Your display device will up-sample the incoming signal to 480p, or perhaps something higher (depends upon the capability of your sets internals and your settings).
2. RCA – A single yellow cable connector. Not much better than Coax. The main difference is that it separates the audio and video by using the red/white (or red/blue) analog cables to carry the audio. This assumes that all three connectors are present. Same up-sampling issue as noted in #1 above.
3. S-video - better than #s 1 & 2, but only because the cable splits the color and black and white signals. (Luminance and Chrominance). Audio must be carried on separate analog cables.
4. Component (a/k/a RGB) - Three cables combined into one unit. Purpose is to split the red, green and blue colors. The display device puts the signal back together. Component is an excellent way to go with progressive scan DVD players. Keep in mind that you lose some resolution (softening of the picture) going this route because the signal from the DVD is in the digital domain in the box. That signal is converted by the DVD player's DAC to analog before being fed to the component output. The signal travels the length of the component cables in analog before being converted again to digital (ADC) by the set. Depending upon your set, and its capabilities - up-sampling etc, you may have yet another conversion back to analog before you see what is on the display. Unfortunately there is not much you can do about this process without purchasing an expensive video processor. If you are happy with the signal then that is all that matters.
5. RGB/HV - rare. Mitsubishi's sets had this connection for a while. Basically it is RGB + H (horizontal) and V (vertical). The added connectors are generally yellow and white. Better than RGB, but still analog.
6. DVI- (comes in three flavors - DVI-A, DVI-D & DVI-I). You most likely will see DVI-D (digital) and DVI-I (analog and digital) on today's consumer sets. This connector will carry digital video signals, but will not carry audio. Some DVI cables are limited in bandwidth and will not carry 1080i at long lengths. Keep in mind that "long length" may be anything over 10 feet. DVI is on the way out, so I would not worry about it unless your set happens to have a DVI connection port.
7. HDMI - The newest connection format. HDMI is still in its early days, and can be confusing even to the experts (a club that I don't belong to). HDMI was created as a single cable solution for carrying video, audio, and command signals from one component to another. Like IEEE (a/k/a firewire) the components are supposed to "shake hands," tell each other about themselves and provide a pristine viewing experience. Sadly, it has not worked out as intended. The standards continue to evolve. Early HDMI could not shake hands, and when it did it did a poor job. That said, HDMI is the future. We should see incremental changes - for the better - over the next several years. Many of the newer systems are backwards compatible to fit into older (older in this case is anything more than a year old) systems. The downside for now is that the newer display devices with HDMI 2.0 and above cannot bring older devices up to the current standard. Your system is only as good as the weakest link.
7. HDCP - This is not a connector, but a standard for encrypting the signal. I add it because in order to resolve true 1080p (and in some cases 720p and 1080i) your source device (sat. box, dvd player etc.) will "talk" to the display device to confirm that the display device is HDCP (High Definition Content Protection) compliant. If not, you will get a downrezed signal (perhaps as low as 480p).
My advice - 1. you can keep your connections as they are and use the hdmi connection for the new Dish receiver. Just make sure that you reset the output on the Dish receiver to take advantage of hdmi. Dish may have changed this but for a very long time, in order to switch the inputs you had to start off in S-vid or coax. If the Dish dude is hooking you up he can do this for you. I would not use the S-vid for the DVD player. If anything, I might be tempted to use the S-vid for the X-box.
2. You can purchase a hdmi switcher. This will give you more hdmi ports for future source components. Most new DVD players have hdmi connectors. You will want to use it if you can. Remember the discussion on DAC & ADC from above? You can avoid the multiple conversions going with a switcher.
I do hope that this helps. Kirk
Last edited:
raggie33
*the raggedier*
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2003
- Messages
- 14,659
well they only gave me rgb and the blue cable was broke but i didnt know it i just saw it had colors i wasnt sure what was wrong.also all the cable for coaz was lose i tighed em but i still get a weak signal on 129 around 60.so i called em i hope they get it to come in better
