Any Way To Mod The Strobe HZ On A P1D CE?

noorudeenshakur

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Through an Action, a Man becomes a Hero. Through Death, a Hero becomes Legend. Through Time, a Legend becomes Myth. Through hearing a Myth, a Man takes an Action...
 
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Norm said:

Is there a Canadian dealer for this light? Is this a Mod for the P1D CE or is it another brand of light alltogether?

Where would I order one from?

Im looking for some photos but cant seem to find any or specs etc? It sounds like a Mod but I am unsure

They sound really cool :) and Id like some more info on them if possible :)
 
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Damn.....this is out of my league. I was hoping it was a completed light. Im afraid of damaging my light if I attempt the mod now that you mention Fenix lights are really hard to do...not to mention i dont have a clue what I would be doing :(

I'm too new to this hobby so unfortunatly I dont understand much about modding at this point.

I wonder if there is someone local in Toronto that could help me out with a modded Flupic Light.

Any suggestions? I really want one of these now.
 
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What is the easiest light to do the Mod to?



Also, would I be able to mod a NUWAI TM-301X-3 or a NUWAI Q-III?

dont know why the font went blue on me lol.

Is there any way I could also say change the LED to a seoul p4 at the same time to get more power out of it?
 
You could always just buy a new light with one already in. A Jil Inteli from Litemania is a nice light though I have a nagging feeling he doesn't make them anymore. Send him a message and ask. Failing that, look in B/S/T for a secondhand light with a FluPic.
 
Yeah a A Jil Inteli looks like a nice little light. I sent him a PM.

Ive searched and searched and im shocked no one is modding lights with Flupic mods and selling them. I guess there just isnt much desire for flupic lights.

I'll make a post in the wanted section maybe someone is looking to get rid of one of their lights.
 
Most people mod lights and keep it for themselves to use. I have a whole bunch of lights. Everyone of them I mod myself. I have no intentions of selling the lights themselves.
 
I want to mod my own but I cant find enough info like a step by step guide for a newbie.

I prefer to buy a quality modded light rather than risk ruining a light on my own with my lack of knowledge and skills as much as id like to try to mod one on my own i realize that some things take time, and knowledge and ive sepnt the last 8 hours reading in here and still havent found an easy to follow guide to doing a mod that I could understand being new to this stuff.

Its clear to see there is a market here....someone should step up and fill it. They would have it cornered since no one is doing it, im not saying you should sell your lights that you modded for yourself if you thought I was saying that i'm sorry but i didnt mean that at all.

It would be nice if there was a step by step guide for your boards for the lights they work with showing what parts are required and how to do the mods. It would help someone who is new to this to understand exactly what they need to do and what lights the boards work with. I'm sure it would also sell more boards, and free up valuable time that is spent ansering the same questions when other members ask.

At the end of the day I just want a light that suits my needs. I'd build it if I could or I'd purchase one all ready to go, if they were available but no one is making them or if they are no one is pointing me in the right direction and nothing comes up in a search other than the jil intelli light which i dont believe is being sold anymore.

You got a really cool item there and I want those features in a small bright light preferable ina cree or p4.. Im really surprised with all these members here no one is making a drop in kit that lets you just drop it into your own light and off to the races you go.
 
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The Q3 was/is very popular because it is one of the easier lights to mod. The stock reflector is very nice and you can swap the stock driver for a flupic (0.75" version) to allow regulation with a 3.7V RCR123 while adding increased functionality. There are also tutorials for swapping the switch with a 2-stage switch to add a low setting if you don't want to go with a flupic. There are posts on how to mod a Q3 with one of the new emitters. If you can't find them by searching, then I will help you out.

I have also seen a thread where somebody modded their TM301X-3 with a Seoul IIRC.
 
mudman cj said:
The Q3 was/is very popular because it is one of the easier lights to mod. The stock reflector is very nice and you can swap the stock driver for a flupic (0.75" version) to allow regulation with a 3.7V RCR123 while adding increased functionality. There are posts on how to mod a Q3 with one of the new emitters. If you can't find them by searching, then I will help you out.

Ok sounds good I can pick up a q3 from the same guy I bought my P1D CE from. Off hand what is the Max Lumen output that I could get from this light?

I do not know what an emitter is, so if its possible to let me know a list of parts I will need for the job I will assemble them. Also if there are some isntructions of what needs to be done it would be helpful. Im upset I wont be able to take photos as I go because my Camera is in Egypt right now. Maybe I can snap some on my phone though.

When I undertake the Mod I will write a step by step guide aimed at newbies with 0 knowledge of modding.( Like Me) That is if there isnt already one somewhere on the forum that I missed while searching.

I usually write guides for newbie at the hobbies I'm skilled at. :)

Thank you for the help :)
 
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Max lumen output would depend upon what path you choose to take with respect to the driver. A flupic can push 1.2 A on burst through the LED (emitter), and make over 240 lumens according to the Seoul spec sheet. In reality, I wouldn't hope for that much. But you won't want to leave the LED running at 1.2 A for long because of heat issues. So, 200 lumens is the upper limit for what you may be able to get at 1 A (the maximum current according to Seoul) from the emitter, then factor in losses from the reflector and lens - you might get 150 lumens. Output from the Cree would be similar if you could get your hands on a Q bin, but even the P4 bin would be a considerable increase in overall lumens - just don't expect much more throw with the Cree since a lot of the extra lumens go into the spill.

While it would be best to mount the emitter (bare LED) directly to a copper heat sink, this involves considerably more effort than just purchasing the LED emitter already mounted to a star. The star is practically a direct swap for the Q3 star, but you will have to modify the reflector by filing up to 0.030" off of the bottom for best focus. The stock reflector is nice, but will not focus the Seoul to a super tight spot. If you want better throw with the Seoul then you should also consider a McR-20 reflector. Try the stock first, it is a useful blend of throw and flood with a smooth transition into the spot. Moving the emitter down towards the LED also means you will need a thicker O-ring to keep the lens tight (or two O-rings).

If you just swap the emitter and mod the reflector you will not be near 150 lumens because the stock board only regulates to 700 mA IIRC (maybe 750mA), and that is only with a CR123, not a RCR123. The higher voltage from a RCR123 puts the LED in direct drive, and while that was fine for Luxeon LEDs, you would not want to do that with the lower Vf Cree or Seoul LEDs because they would be driven way over spec. So, to get the most lumens you should also upgrade the driver board, and then you will also be safe using rechargeables.

Links for the flupic, the Seoul P4 U bin star, and the McR-20 reflector.

Here is a link to Paul6ppca's Q3 Cree mod.

Here is a link to where myk modded his 301x-3 with a Seoul, though there is little detail.
 
"The higher voltage from a RCR123 puts the LED in direct drive, and while that was fine for Luxeon LEDs, you would not want to do that with the lower Vf Cree or Seoul LEDs because they would be driven way over spec."

But the common opinion, which I've seen expressed many times, is that the Fenix Cree models are being direct driven when used with rechargeable 3.7v batteries. And it seems to work just fine.
 
LightScene said:
"The higher voltage from a RCR123 puts the LED in direct drive, and while that was fine for Luxeon LEDs, you would not want to do that with the lower Vf Cree or Seoul LEDs because they would be driven way over spec."

But the common opinion, which I've seen expressed many times, is that the Fenix Cree models are being direct driven when used with rechargeable 3.7v batteries. And it seems to work just fine.

Neither the P1D CE nor L1D CE I tested seemed to be direct drive in their highest mode.

BTW, why would you want to put a less efficient circuit into the light just to get a faster strobe?
 

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