Any word yet on Firefoxes FF5?

ampdude

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Wow that thing's a monster. Looks like a caveman club. Nice throw with that huge reflector, but 5700K looks terrible though.
 

Alex1234

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Wow that thing's a monster. Looks like a caveman club. Nice throw with that huge reflector, but 5700K looks terrible though.
Tint to my eyes is actually nice. Its definitely closer to neutral white to my eyes. No blue at all. That said the ff5's output color is definitely superior. But for an led the tint on the MT90VN is quite nice imo the ff5s awsome tint is just making the mt90vn seam worse then it is.
 

ampdude

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Tint to my eyes is actually nice. Its definitely closer to neutral white to my eyes. No blue at all. That said the ff5's output color is definitely superior. But for an led the tint on the MT90VN is quite nice imo the ff5s awsome tint is just making the mt90vn seam worse then it is.

I've been going back on forth on LED tints lately. Normally a 3500K guy. Most of the "4000K" ones I've tried, that most people prefer, like the Nichia 219's are a bit too cold for my taste, if only slightly. I ordered a few Coast lights that I've tried out here in the house and ironically the 5000K one that I thought I would hate the most is the one I like the best, because I think it puts out enough efficient light to make up for the difference. I just don't like it when LED's put a lot of wasted blue light. The trade off with LED's always seems to be that you have a lower power input, but you need a much larger light to compensate for throw if there's not an optic like an aspherical lense. I'd like an FF6 in that size in 200W 4300K. Now we got something to compare. More power hungry than the LED it will be no doubt, but who cares. We got power these days! In these size lights it's not about saving power.
 
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Alex1234

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I've been going back on forth on LED tints lately. Normally a 3500K guy. Most of the "4000K" ones I've tried, that most people prefer, like the Nichia 219's are a bit too cold for my taste, if only slightly. I ordered a few Coast lights that I've tried out here in the house and ironically the 5000K one that I thought I would hate the most is the one I like the best, because I think it puts out enough efficient light to make up for the difference. I just don't like it when LED's put a lot of wasted blue light. The trade off with LED's always seems to be that you have a lower power input, but you need a much larger light to compensate for throw if there's not an optic like an aspherical lense. I'd like an FF6 in that size in 200W 4300K. Now we got something to compare. More power hungry than the LED it will be no doubt, but who cares. We got power these days! In these size lights it's not about saving power.

A turbo head FF6 with say a 6 or 8 inch head would throw 4- 5 MCD. Id buy 2 of them
 

BVH

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I finished installing my replacement ballast yesterday and successfully fired up my original light that I damaged. This is not a job for the casual flashlight enthusiast.
 

LuxLuthor

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Alex, the mt90’s beam is awesome, but that massive size and front heavy design make it not worth it, IMHO. Same reason I didn’t bother with the super head on the Lemax.
 

sledhead

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Alex: Great shots and comparison's. Hopefully we'll get to compare them all to my SuperPower and LX50 sometime this fall. :thumbsup:

SuperPower front heavy?............just a tad, but, ohhh sooo worth it! :D
 

Alex1234

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Alex: Great shots and comparison's. Hopefully we'll get to compare them all to my SuperPower and LX50 sometime this fall. :thumbsup:

SuperPower front heavy?............just a tad, but, ohhh sooo worth it! :D

cant wait. I think the MT90VN+ will keep up with the super power somewhat.
 

badtziscool

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What did you encounter that made the repair more difficult? I’m curious because I imagine I will need to replace the bulb at some point and would like to know what I could be potentially dealing with.

I finished installing my replacement ballast yesterday and successfully fired up my original light that I damaged. This is not a job for the casual flashlight enthusiast.
 

BVH

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The lamp change is not too bad. The most difficult part for me was while inserting the open frame type ballast into the head, the two 28 awg switch wires have to be started down and fished down a very deep hole. There's barely enough wire length to see them enter the hole. Once down, the tiny hole in the head and the tiny hole in the bottom plate of the ballast must be perfectly aligned or you'll chop the wires when securing the ballast down. Then, the switch wires at the switch mounting hole must be cut very short because there is no way to push any excess "working" wire length back into the hole so you can seat the switch chip but...and you need extra wire length to make the very tiny solder connections. Part of the problem is that my manual dexterity is not what it was at 40. The issue with the replacement lamps will be that the electrode wire that goes thru the ceramic base is significantly shorter than the electrode on the lamp that came with the light. On the bottom side of the ceramic base, there is a grove from center point extending out the outer diameter. The electrode is designed to protrude from the hole, immediately bend in the grove and extend to the outer diameter. Then it is bent back on itself 180 degrees and extends all the way across the diameter of the ceramic base. I think there is only enough electrode to make the initial bend in the groove to the outer diameter and then maybe only 25% to 30% of the way across the entire diameter. Will this matter? I don't know, maybe not. I used my original lamp, not my spare. The actual electrical connection relies only on the wire with copper puck soldered on the end from the ballast being pushed up against the electrode and it is held in with a doughnut of hard silicone rubber forced up into the ceramic base. There is no actual positive connection, just friction by the doughnut. No Pun intended there. By the way, all replacement lamps are 4300K, no 6000K's (5500K)

Lamp Change: With special 3-hump tool, Unscrew the bezel. Lift out the front glass and pull the reflector out as far as the power wire will allow. Remove the kapstan tape around the ceramic base. Unscrew the ring nut securing the ceramic base to the reflector. Remove the two tiny clips holding the lamp top electrode and power return wires in a groove cut into the reflector. Back the bulb and base out of the reflector while maneuvering the top lamp electrode out of the reflector hole at the same time. The lamp bottom quartz stem just floats in the larger ceramic base, only the electrode going thru the hole and bending in the groove holds it somewhat in-place. Reverse to install.

Much as I really enjoy this type of work, I would not do it regularly for others who wanted it done. Once is enough for fun.
 
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BVH

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I added: "With special 3-Hump tool". Gotta have it or a no-go unless you're ok damaging your bezel.
 

Alex1234

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I added: "With special 3-Hump tool". Gotta have it or a no-go unless you're ok damaging your bezel.

My defuser got stuck on my ff5 and after trying as hard as I can to get it to unthread the whole bezal unthreaded. No need for a bezal tool for me lol
 

ampdude

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My defuser got stuck on my ff5 and after trying as hard as I can to get it to unthread the whole bezal unthreaded. No need for a bezal tool for me lol

LOL! Also good to know!!!! I would really like a special bezel tool available though.
 

LuxLuthor

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I continue to be impressed with this FF5 for its size. Quite an accomplishment in such a small package.
 

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