Anybody know how to FLAME anodize Ti or Al?

proFeign

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Howdy, after numerous fruitless searches on google, CPF, KF etc I haven't been able to find the directions for flame anodizing Ti. It was originally about balisong Ti handles but there must be directions somewhere. I'm going to try it with the Ti framelock side of an Emerson HD-7 but I don't have the cash for my own home ano kit. Apparently a flame heat source is all you really need to get some fun purples and blues but I don't want to take a torch to this until I hear that someone has done it before and see if anyone has any pointers or tips. Seriously, no good info or pics online that I've found for torch/flame anodizing.

Anybody? Links? Tips? It's driving me crazy searching for something I know is out there but can't find for the life of me...

Anything would be much appreciated!

proF
 

Jumpmaster

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Friggin' MORE COWBELL!!!

proFeign

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Awesome, thanks JM! I'm looking into all of this... I hope I can mask off one side of it comes out two-tone. Maybe vaseline? I dunno...
 

aml

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if you want to "torch" color TI, its relatively simple...but you need a SMALL HOT flame. I use a MAP gas torch, but you have to be careful, map can and will melt TI.

Degrease the metal, then beadblast it to REALLY clean the surface (this is a lot more important than it sounds.) only handle with clean gloves after the bead blast.

I like the take the piece i am working with and hold it with metal clips...

now SPRAY the surface of the metal with a light coat of WD40. wierd i know, but you need SOME sort of contaminate on the surface, or you wont get good color. by doing it this way, your contaminate is UNIFORM.

using a torch, you need a TINY blue flame....like a pea sized flame, and JUST heat the metal until it starts to barely glow, then move the flame slowly, letting the glow trail after it. you can use this method to do striped designs...similar to the "STRIDER" type TI stripes.

practice on a piece of scrap TI that is of similar thickness to your actual piece beforehand, so you can get the hang of the process.

DwyerDuane_SMF_TRISULA.jpg


you can also use a broad flame brushed across to make more sweeping lighter colors.
 

proFeign

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Thanks for the pic and advice! I found a great procedure at:

http://www.mrtitanium.com/anodizing.html

Sweet.

I'm doing it tonight. This is the knife:

Polished_Emerson.JPG



Polishing it took freaking hours and hours. 400 to 600 to 900 to 1200 grit paper then an hour or two of power and hand buffing/polishing. I hope it anos well.
 

proFeign

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Jumpmaster said:
Pictures will be mandatory, once completed.

:D

JM-99

Sir, of course, sir! I ano'd it last night but I think I used too much TSP so I buffed all the color off the polished side and am starting again tomorrow. It'll come out better this time, even though it didn't look bad at all. Everyone was pretty impressed that saw it. I'm not going to be satisfied until it's really dope, though, so it might take one or two more tries... I was bound to F it up the first time anyway...
 

proFeign

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I had to sand off the polish because it kept getting fogged and wasn't anodizing evenly. So grained with 600 grit and then anodized at 14-24V for two-tone. I'll probably redo it all in either the deep bronze or purple/blue for a one-tone effect. Which would you guys pick? I also have to wire brush out the polish in the clip recess that shows the silver lines.

ano.jpg
 

proFeign

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It's really hard to get a decent picture of a two-tone ano that shows the whole side in color. You kind of have to tilt it around. I'm trying to decide if I should go with a full gold/bronze color or a full purple/blue... I can make it lighter blue also but I can't really decide... Any thoughts/advice? Two tone is cool but this is a serious-looking knife and the colors don't quite fit, but they sort of do. Decisions decisions...

Does anyone know of a really sturdy glossy enamel/lacquer/epoxy that will fill the clip recess I put in on the milling machine? It's going to have to be VERY strong stuff if it's going to hold up. A glossy black slow-curing epoxy-type lacquer would be best but I don't know of such a thing. Like the kind of stuff they rub into grooves and wipe off to get an inlaid laquer in grooves on stuff. If anyone has any idea what I'm talking about....
 

thesurefire

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I did a Ti rod a while back, you pretty much just get a torch and heat the metal until you see a color you want, then quickly move the heat source, or the color will shift.

One of my friends did a really cool 'camo' spork but putting drops of water on the metal before heating it, causing it to heat unevenly and have a camo effect.
 

proFeign

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KingSmono said:
Looks good! Oh, and nice watch!! :drool:

Thanks! And thanks! I love my watch. Every day wear for almost ten years. I got a less nice watch for high school graduation and traded it in (with all of my savings) for this thing. Breitling takes care of their customers like crazy. They replaced a crystal, the movement (probably from me dropping it onto tile from six feet years before), and refinished it all for free. The new movement was eight years after purchase and since they "lost" it at the repair factory in Switzerland for six days they comped the $230 service! The crystal replacement was due to total negligence (bashed it hardcore on a metro train door, and just scratched it) too but since it was less than a year old they were nice to me. So they've given me $450 of free service and replacement parts for stuff that was my fault. :thumb: I will hopefully have it for the rest of my life. Not flashy but nicer than most Rolexes IMO, I don't like ostentation.

The glareproofed crystal is my favorite single thing about it. Check out this picture:

breit.jpg


The flash didn't show up at all

People think the hands are exposed and sometimes people reach out and poke the crystal to see if it's there at all. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
 

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