Anybody know how to modify the current on a KL1 (ver1)?

[Sinjz]

I tried searching, but I can't seem to find instructions on how to up the current of a KL1 (ver1). I know I've seen a 'how-to' somewhere before. Anybody got it bookmarked or something? :help:

 

[MarNav1]

Re: Anybody know how to modify the current on KL1 (ver1)?

I'll bet Milky or CM would know.

 

[Sinjz]

I'm sure they do! But I need a 'how-to' guide, preferably w/ pics. I know I've seen one a long time ago, but can't find it now. I don't know how to organize search results that well and get too many results that don't tell me anything.

 

[kenster]

I believe this thread may hlep you out.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=126425&highlight=KL1

And just for fun, you might want to check out this thread as well.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166471

Ken

 

[Sinjz]

Thanks Ken. However, those are for the Gen4 KL1's. I don't know if they have the same board. :shrug: I think they are driven at a different current and are opened differently too.

I got the bezel ring off the KL1 (Gen1) and have taken out the optic and see the emitter sitting on a copper heatsink, BUT how do I get to the circuit? I only see one seam to open, unlike my KL4. :thinking:

 

[louie]

My KL1 1st gen takeapart guide is on my website. The stock current is 350mA. From memory, to double the current, you can stack the same surface mount resistors on top of the existing 1R0 and R10 resistors to halve the sensing resistance. Somewhere I have the specs on the resistors, available at Digikey.

edit - dead link. PM me for the KL1 take apart guide.

 

[kenster]

Sinjz, I thought you just needed to know how to up the current on the convereter, not how to take the head apart as well. Sorry! Louie`s link is great with pics that show everything. Hmmm....... Except what resistors to change. I had it figured out what reisistor change gave what current for my convereter but it was longer ago than yesterday so...... :green:

Louie, I wish I had seen your website a long time ago before I took my KL1 apart since I had no idea the head was even three pieces. The bottom came loose first and I broke a wire off the driver. Funny, mine has a 1R0 resistor like your converter but an R100 to your R10 resistor????? :duh2: I believe there were several configurations for the Kl1 converter over the years.

 

[louie]

I think the resistors are the same. The R is where the decimal goes, so R100 is 0.100 ohms and the same as R10, 0.10 ohms.

I bought resistors at Digikey, Panasonic 1210 series.

Actually, I eventually just restored the drive to 350mA and put in Seoul SSCs into my 2 KL1s. I run 'em on 1 RCR123, and like this package, brightness and runtime.

 

[kenster]

Louie, I wasn`t using my brain with the R10 and R100 resistors. It`s late and I am feeling very....... :sleepy: ....... HUH? I`m awake! oo: I do recall planning on piggy backing a resistor to only the 1R0 resistor to raise the drive level but........ there always seems to be a but :duh2: .... Besides being exhausted, when it comes to electronics I don`t know my own bungholio from the hole in the bowlio. :toilet: Time to get some shut eye before I fall in!

:wave: Ken :sleepy:

 

[Sinjz]

Wow! :kewlpics: Thanks guys!

There is a second seam! I didn't see it where I expected it on the inside of the head, so I just figured what I saw on the outside was dirt!

Got the emitter off. Got the board off. Got the second part opened. Now I just need confirmation that I need to double up on both the 1R0 and R10. Only worried cause the link Kenster provided with the KL1 (Gen4) mod, only used one resistor. Do I need to use AA if I Seoul this?

Thanks again!

 

[louie]

Yes, this generation KL1 needs changes to both resistors. When I tried it, it was very hard to solder and the current didn't double. I figure it was due to small resistances in the soldering job, and we are talking pretty small values trying to go from 0.1 ohm to 0.05 ohm on one of them. The small brightness increase wasn't worth the loss of runtime, IMO.

Yes, be careful of the non-isolated SSC slug. I think the mounting disk will take on the potential of the slug if it touches it in the least, and the only thing that will save you is that the tube is anodized. I did use ordinary Arctic alumina compound and it worked fine twice. YMMV.

I then went to IMS17 reflectors with the SSCs to get a decent beam. The NX05 optic was bad with the SSC. Some others recommend other reflectors.

 

[Sinjz]

Hmmm.... I guess I'll trust you and stick with it at 350ma. I'm not that steady with a soldering iron anyway.

Already got a IMS17 and a glow-o-ring in there. Just need to pick up a SSC or maybe go with a colored Luxeon?

Thanks again for the info!

Anybody know how much current is going to the LED in the new Cree KL1s?

Somebody should take on the task of creating a giant list of all the how-to guides.