Dawg
Enlightened
I swapped my Milkyspit ML1 head onto my newly aquired VG body. Very bright with a RCR rechargeable. It actually compares very favorably with the E1L that has been Seouled. Can't beat the small size.
Anyone else done this with their VG body?
- Thread starter Dawg
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Blindasabat
Flashlight Enthusiast
YES!
I have been playing with stock L1, ML1, and ML1 new style SSC heads on my FB1 and E1 bodies. Those old style heads are great on the small bodies. I like the E1 with McE2S 2-stage switch for a Very nice looking (my vote for best looking, best handling small light ever), small, direct drive, but still two stage, L1. And I like the FB1 as a tiny high quality pocket light that doesn't bounce around the bottom of my pocket. That clip is awesome!
I like the old L1 head so much I watched BST for two months to get a second one after I already had an ML1. I can put Milky's cut down MCR in it or one of a few optics that work very well for me.
I have been playing with stock L1, ML1, and ML1 new style SSC heads on my FB1 and E1 bodies. Those old style heads are great on the small bodies. I like the E1 with McE2S 2-stage switch for a Very nice looking (my vote for best looking, best handling small light ever), small, direct drive, but still two stage, L1. And I like the FB1 as a tiny high quality pocket light that doesn't bounce around the bottom of my pocket. That clip is awesome!
I like the old L1 head so much I watched BST for two months to get a second one after I already had an ML1. I can put Milky's cut down MCR in it or one of a few optics that work very well for me.
MorpheusT1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ouch!!
Better be Careful as that head doesent have any electronics at all.
Pure DD running through that poor emitter.
4,2V with a freshly charged battery and about 1500mA to the led is not recommended unless the VF of your emitter is very high.
What kind of VF led did milky put in it?
Benny
Better be Careful as that head doesent have any electronics at all.
Pure DD running through that poor emitter.
4,2V with a freshly charged battery and about 1500mA to the led is not recommended unless the VF of your emitter is very high.
What kind of VF led did milky put in it?
Benny
Dawg
Enlightened
Morpheous, I have tried to respond but the server is sucking right now.
Bwaites responded to another person in another thread that it was OK. That was what led me to believe it was ok. But I am going to use only primaries till Milky gets back to me.
Bwaites responded to another person in another thread that it was OK. That was what led me to believe it was ok. But I am going to use only primaries till Milky gets back to me.
MorpheusT1
Flashlight Enthusiast
It would be wise to know the Bin first 
I have done the same thing with a stock head,but only short bursts.
Regards,
Benny
I have done the same thing with a stock head,but only short bursts.
Regards,
Benny
Dawg said:
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Dawg said:
Dawg, the most reliable way to check whether that head will be okay using RCR123 is to check the current draw from the battery using a DMM (digital multimeter) set to its highest current measurement scale. On most units that's 10A, 15A, or 20A. You can temporarily unscrew the tailswitch from that VG body and test current flow between battery and the battery tube itself.
If you're seeing 1A or less of current flow, then all is well. If you're seeing more then you MIGHT be okay, but should understand that you're subjecting the emitter to a heck of a lot of current, and it will degrade faster. Of course, 'faster' in this context means you get maybe 5,000 hours in the emitter's useful service life, rather than 50,000 hours.
Regardless of what the current draw may be, understand that there's just not a whole lot of metal in this small of a light for heatsinking purposes... so when the head starts getting hot (lukewarm is okay, uncomfortably hot is not) you should probably turn the light off and let it cool down.
If you follow the above guidelines you should be fine. No worries!
My VG FB1 with an E2D head and a LumensFactory 3.6V LA is one of my EDCs. Smallest little bugger with momentary clicky and 60 lumens out of the front!...sweet! I love my VG FB1, FB2, and FB3 bodies...wish they could still be had more easily. Also rotate a FB2 body with an E2D head...shorter than a stock E2D, carries bezel down so no one sees the head, and the head doesn't scratch my hand anymore.
KL4 + Cree on VG-FB1
Not sure how many lumens, but I'm guessing A LOT from an RCR123 !
(more details about the KL4 + Cree mod here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162146)
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Not sure how many lumens, but I'm guessing A LOT from an RCR123 !
(more details about the KL4 + Cree mod here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=162146)
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
milkyspit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Then there's the MilkMite 5 built from a hybrid old/new KL1 head, with FLuPIC circuitry inside, running on VG body, and SEOULmated. Burst delivers about 200 lumens...
