anyone experiencing this problem concerning the new beam with AA mag

[Gundam]

I have got this AA mag for almost 5 years and recently i purchased the new beam as a retro fit.

i realised that the with this LED module to screw in the batt cap seem tougher. the impression i have is that the module is pushing a lot more on the batts and when i screw the cap in there is a lot of grinding that causes a lot of wear and tear on the threads. b4 that with the original aa mag bulb there wasn't such a problem.

 

[Wingerr]

Sounds like something's not seated properly; did you leave the batteries in there when you were taking out the piece from the original switch? There shouldn't really be any change from old to new as far as the battery compartment size.
You might try taking it apart to make sure everything's seated properly in there-

I was in a local fast food eatery yesterday when a guy noticed my Mag/NewBeam in the holster, and asked if it were a new version of Maglite, having noticed the LEDs. Told him it was a conversion kit from Opalec, and when I turned it on to show him, he commented to his buddy, "Whoa, look how bright it is!" Then they asked where they can get one- so I told them. More flashaholics in the making-

 

[Gundam]

yup the batts were in there when i did the conversion, i guess the problem may lie in me. for the time being i added some silicon grease to reduce the wear.

btw juz wanna compare, when u on your aa mag i.e. turn the body about 1/4. Does the module move with respect to the head of the torch?

yeah the new beam is great, i juz when on a night hike alone on a trail in a reservoir over the weekend. the trail was very dark due to the thick vegetation. the new beam was bright but yet i didn't lose my night vision

 

[Wingerr]

When I turn it from off to on, the module moves along with the head initially, then as soon as the light goes on, it stays still with respect to the body, because of the friction from the contact for the switch pressing on the inner retaining lip of the body.
It doesn't take 1/4 turn on mine, though, from off to on is only a about 10 degrees or so.

With the endcap off, and light in the off position, the spacing from the edge to the batteries is 0.445" or 11.3mm, if you want to compare- With the switch in the on position, it measures about 11.7mm. If you have to turn a full 1/4 turn before it comes on, it points to the module not being fully seated.

That would cause the batteries to be pushed further out from the body when turned off, which might be causing the problem you're having. When you turn on the light, is it much easier to put the end cap on? At that point, you have the maximum spacing available at the endcap. Probably could just turn on the light before changing batteries, to make it easier, if you can't seat the module in any more than it already is.

One way to "seat" the module is to rap it head first on a hard but non-marring surface (light has to be OFF); this uses the batteries as an "impact driver" to force the receptacle in towards the module. Or, just get something to hold the batteries in place with the end cap off, and then firmly push the module down in place to the furthest extent possible.

 

[Darell]

I think Wingerr is on the right track with the seating process. Also, you can take everything apart and clean it all up. My threads sounded pretty bad on some of my conversions as well. A rag and a can of WD-40 did wonders. Then I lubed everything up and all was good. WD-40 makes a great cleaner, but don't count on it for a lubricant.

 

[John Frederick]

My solution is to buy a Kroll switch from Briteguy. I moved the negative contact to the top side of the mag (above the lip). Then you can just leave the head screwed down tight and use the clickie-switch.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

My solution is to buy a Kroll switch from Briteguy. I moved the negative contact to the top side of the mag (above the lip). Then you can just leave the head screwed down tight and use the clickie-switch.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">But then you lose the lockout option. Perhaps a more relevant issue with the Ram tailcap switch that I use.