Are twisty flashlights prone to leaking water?

Brian321

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I am just wondering if the twisty flashlights are more prone to leaking water? Because you have to keep them loosened for them to be off So wouldnt the water leak throught the threads? I want to buy a quark mini but it will have to be water proof.
 
most definitely.
Unscrewing the cap creates a vacuum and it sucks the water past the O-ring. That combined with the sliding motion + whatever pressure the submerged light is exposed too makes them susceptible.

Although I wouldn't say they are "prone" to water intrusion, If the part tolerances are tight, the O-ring is snug + freshly lubed and multiple O-rings are used.
 
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My backup dive lights are all twisty's. The o-ring is engaged long before the light turns on. So unless you're backing it off three turns just to turn it off, it remains waterproof. However, I doubt all twisty's are built that way.
 
It's IPX-8. That means that "It'll definitely be ok in water, for a while." Too much water, too long in it, and the light will probably leak. Don't bet on it surviving a dive, but you should be ok using it in rain and splashing. The MiNis aren't meant to be durable, powerful, just reasonably good and cheap.
 
most definitely.
Unscrewing the cap creates a vacuum and it sucks the water past the O-ring. That combined with the sliding motion + whatever pressure the submerged light is exposed too makes them susceptible.

not exactly. previously tightening the cap created a positive pressure inside the light, so loosening the cap just returns the interior pressure to ambient.

FYI, many dive lights are twisty-only.
 
not exactly. previously tightening the cap created a positive pressure inside the light, so loosening the cap just returns the interior pressure to ambient.

FYI, many dive lights are twisty-only.

But don't many of them recommend to turn the light on, before the dive? and not cycling the switch while submerged?

I should let it be known that the above scenario is based on my observation of the SF-Z41, which does inhale water if it is unscrewed while submerged... even just a little bit.
 
Yes, but only with you try to use it as a dive light or try twisting the tailcap underwater at certain depths.

In my experience, the SureFire C series, A2 L1/LX2 and Inova X series (all with twisties) have been helding superbly in water immersion, mostly crossing rivers at night and caving.

Do you know who is the biggest enemy of a twistie light? Not water... it's SAND! Sand trashes your twistie. If I'm going camping in some island, beach, desert or sandy mountain, or any dry place with lots of dirt and sediments, I'm taking a clicky!
 
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But don't many of them recommend to turn the light on, before the dive? and not cycling the switch while submerged?

I should let it be known that the above scenario is based on my observation of the SF-Z41, which does inhale water if it is unscrewed while submerged... even just a little bit.

Incorrect. A proper dive light should be able to cycle on/off fully submerged at whatever depths it were rated to operate. That's why most dive lights are not clickies nor twisties: they use slide switches such as this one:
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But don't many of them recommend to turn the light on, before the dive? and not cycling the switch while submerged?
For me that would defeat the purpose of a backup light. I've never practiced that as a precaution. As a pack rat, I had my manuals around to check and nary a one recommends it.

A good number of dive lights are twisty's only.

I think it mostly boils down to what the flashlight was designed to do; dive light, IPX-8, dry land only. Clean, undamaged threads, well lubed o-rings in good shape, and such, make a difference in how well it performs to its design.
 
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For me that would defeat the purpose of a backup light. I've never practiced that as a precaution. As a pack rat, I had my manuals around to check and nary a one recommends it.

I think it mostly boils down to what the flashlight was designed to do; dive light, IPX-8, dry land only. Clean, undamaged threads, well lubed o-rings in good shape, and such, make a difference in how well it performs to its design.
Yep, a backup light with dead batteries would not be a very good backup...
 
Fewer places for water to intrude is why I believe a well built twisty is more water resistant.
 
25+ years ago, I was always told, AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, not to turn your light on and off while in the water. Turn on before you go in, and turn off after you come out.

I believe that those words of advice were on the ultra-conservative side of things, but that has served me well. Not one flooded light provided I did my part as far as maintenance is concerned.

Never took a twistie in the water as I would rather have a swtich, and all of my dive lights have had switches: Darrel Allen 10D (crapiest switch in dive light history), numerous 8D UK's pre-halogen and halogen, and a 4C UK as my backup.
 
Barbolight is a maker of premium dive lights and they are all twisties...
Yeah, so are SureFire dive-rated lights such as the 6PN. But I consider SureFire N-rated lights and Barbolights more of specialty items or "exotics". They are not broadly in use by recreational divers.
 
Yeah, so are SureFire dive-rated lights such as the 6PN. But I consider SureFire N-rated lights and Barbolights more of specialty items or "exotics". They are not broadly in use by recreational divers.
the majority of UK's and Pelican's dives lights are also twisty, and those two brands are VERY common.
 
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