Armytek XHP-50 Headlamp 1600 lumen

[target4fun]

Seems like 1600 lum would get pretty hot pretty quick. Maybe I am wrong. You could always turn it down I guess, options are nice.

 

[scs]

Seems like 1600 lum would get pretty hot pretty quick. Maybe I am wrong. You could always turn it down I guess, options are nice.

It does. My sample got as hot as 140 degrees F before leveling off and maintaining 130+ degrees F.

 

[delerious]

I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?

Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.

Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.

 

[scs]

I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?

Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.

Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.

Yup, sounds like you got the older batch. I'm curious whether AT would worry about setting a precedence by letting you exchange yours for that reason, because lots of people have the older version. That could mean a lot of returned lights and lost profits. Then there's the new issue WW has discovered. If that's typical, people might not want a replacement only to have a new problem.

So silly the 2 options on the AT menu: not as advertised or partially defective, which do you want?

If there's one thing I can't complain about my AT lights, it's their waterproofness. I'm pretty sure if water can't get in, then dust can't either.

 

[Woods Walker]

Made my hassle free warranty video for Armtek. Sent it to Sandra. Not my best video work as just used the iPhone but it does show the slight (and annoying during use) flicker on M1 30 lumen mode. On the other issue AT does say it can change the specs of their lights at any time however if it says 30 lumens on the advertising it was purchased from and you get 100 that's a no go IMHO. Lights are often purchased based on modes etc. For example this is that's listed at the seller I got it from at time of purchase.


Turbo2 = 2150 (1h), Turbo1 = 1250lm (1h40min), 500lm (4h10min),210lm (10h40мin), 40lm (50h), 7lm (12d), 2lm (40d), 0.25lm (200d), Strobe3: 10Hz, Turbo2, 2h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Turbo2, 3.5h; Strobe2: 1Hz, Main2, 35h

On the AT site.

Turbo2 = 1800 (1h), Turbo1 = 900lm (1h40min), 390lm (4h), 165lm (10,5h), 30lm (50h), 5,5lm (40d), 1,5lm (40d), 0,15lm (200d), Strobe3, Strobe2, Strobe1

Now there are typos and differences, maybe emitter vs out front however if someone was expecting 30/40 based on advertising from both the seller and AT but got 100 that's not right. The runtime differences between 100 and 30 are taken into account by some people within their determination. There is a BIG difference in field effectiveness and use between 30 and 100. Now some might not care and that's cool Personally I would prefer a properly working 100 to a 30 with a flicker but then again this shouldn't be an issue for a gear item sold on the pros of reliability etc etc etc.

 

[scs]

Yeah, I wanted that 40 lumen mode. But no biggie. 10 years is a long time. I'm sure the light will stop working way before then, and I will have a stronger case for a replacement.

 

[delerious]

Yeah, I wanted that 40 lumen mode. But no biggie. 10 years is a long time. I'm sure the light will stop working way before then, and I will have a stronger case for a replacement.

I wonder if they give you a new one under the warranty, or a refurbished one. If you wait too long, they won't even make this model anymore, so it'll have to be a repair. Depending on what breaks, they may not fix the M1 to be 30-40 lumens.

 

[scs]

I wonder if they give you a new one under the warranty, or a refurbished one. If you wait too long, they won't even make this model anymore, so it'll have to be a repair. Depending on what breaks, they may not fix the M1 to be 30-40 lumens.

Let's hope that by the time it breaks, AT is still in business and offering an even better model.

 

[MattSPL]

I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?

Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.

Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.

My Wizard pro gets used daily in work(electrician), often while cutting brick or concrete walls, so it's well able for the dust.
the first o'ring gets very dirty over time, but nothing gets past it to the 2nd o'ring.

 

[Woods Walker]

Looks like they will be sending me a new light. The process so far hasn't been so bad. They made sure it wasn't a battery issues etc first. The video was easy as just used my phone. Took all of 30 seconds and a few emails back and forth. Will keep this thread updated as still in the process. They seemed very polite etc etc.

on the issues of heat. Yes the light gets hot but well, it is brighter than a car headlamp but on your head so..... Well.. Lol

 

[Lumencrazy]

I got mine a week ago (didn't come with a manual), and got my charger today, so I've been playing with it tonight. It looks like mine is the 100 lumen M1 version instead of 30 lumen. This is my first LED flashlight so I'm hardly an expert at lumens, but there doesn't seem to be much of a jump between M1 and M2. I wonder if you can get a replacement under the warranty if you want the 30 lumen M1?

Firefly1 is so dim I can't really see anything - it seems like a useless mode to me.

Also, has anyone used this in a dusty environment? Armytek says it's supposed to be dust proof, but I wanted to hear from the forum users. I'm planning on using this in the attic to sprinkle around a lot of insecticide powder to take care of a silverfish infestation. Hope none of that dust gets through the power switch or any other way.

Wake up in a dark tent in the middle of the night when nature calls and that low firefly mode is more than enough light to find your shoes and clothes without waking up anyone else. Also easy on you eyes. You will also not loose your night vision. My light is always set at that low mode. Not usless, but in fact the most practical.

 

[Sledgestone]

Just got my Wizard pro CW and I love everything about it except that it has the greenest tint out of all my other lights. Is this a common problem with this light? Or did I just have bad luck with the tint lottery?

 

[scs]

Just got my Wizard pro CW and I love everything about it except that it has the greenest tint out of all my other lights. Is this a common problem with this light? Or did I just have bad luck with the tint lottery?

My Warm version strangely doesn't appear noticeably green, but casts a green tint on objects, especially skin. Even more strange, another light that does appear green next to the warm one, doesn't cast a green tint. I think it's a Cree characteristic.

 

[Sledgestone]

Haha, that sounds very weird

 

[Woods Walker]

I have seen the tints from two of the HXP-50 wizards in warm and they seem like very good NW tinted lights though tint is within the eye of the beholder. I am really pleased with the tint. In fact more so than my other ArmyTek lights in NW.

 

[TheGrave]

Guys, how do you comment on this one:

https://eu.nkon.nl/armytek-wizard-pro-v3-xhp50-led.html


What bothers me is that the text in the PDF linked there (latest manual by Armytek which is NOT published on their official website...guess why):

https://www.nkon.nl/sk/k/Wizard-Pro-v3-XHP-en.pdf

With ambient temperature +25°C the flashlight delivers light in Maximum mode for about 6-10 minutes and then the brightness decreases by 35%.

After cooling-down (provided that battery voltage is sufficient) the brightness increases to the Maximum mode again. This stepping goes
cyclically to maintain the user's safety and the flashlight's functionality. In conditions of good air-cooling the flashlight delivers constant light even in Maximum mode.

This contradicts severely with the tests performed by NKON:

It is obvious that the Wizard Pro will get very hot when it is producing 2300 LED lumen. So it switches down to 1250 LED lumen after a little bit. It will still remain quite hot in this lower mode.

When starting on 1250 LED lumen the Wizard will stay there for about an hour and then switch down to 500 LED lumen. At that time it will be quite hot. In the 500 LED lumen mode it will cool down nicely. So the heat protection is for preserving the LED lifetime and not so much for protecting your fingers.

I verified with them - tests were done a few months back (my guess after June's batch release) and manual is about half an year old.

Can you confirm you experience similar results? Obviously, ambient temperature is a key factor here but to me it seems you get a 1250 lumen light good for 1h in average ambient temp conditions which steps down even further after that.

 

[jirik_cz]

The latest manual is published on Armytek website here. The manual on nknon website is an old version.

I have measured the output of the September version of Wizard Pro XHP50 (White) in my styrofoam sphere. I have used unprotected high current Acebeam 18650 2500 mAh, which should handle current up to 20A.

My sample has over 1500 lumens in the turbo2 mode (rated as 1800 OTF lumens by Armytek) and over 700 lumens in the turbo 1 mode (rated 900 OTF lumens by Armytek).

Here is the full runtime in turbo2 with cooling fan on, and off. I have also measured turbo1, but only with cooling fan on.

And here is the detail of first 35 minutes

As you can see, the light is temperature regulated. At the beginning of runtime, it decreases and increases the output in small steps until it reaches some kind of temperature/output equilibrium.

 

[TheGrave]

These are very interesting results, thanks for sharing them with us!

There is something I don't understand though in graph 1 - lumen output drops to nearly zero with fan ON around 37th minute or so but stays around 500lm with fan OFF for 100 mins? That doesn't make much sense.

I assume this an external fan you use to blow on the headlamp? Environment is what, room temp around 20 degrees C?

Btw what is this styrofoam sphere you are talking about, some device to measure luminosity? Excuse my ignorance, I'm still a newbie here

 

[scs]

These are very interesting results, thanks for sharing them with us!

There is something I don't understand though in graph 1 - lumen output drops to nearly zero with fan ON around 37th minute or so but stays around 500lm with fan OFF for 100 mins? That doesn't make much sense.

I assume this an external fan you use to blow on the headlamp? Environment is what, room temp around 20 degrees C?

Btw what is this styrofoam sphere you are talking about, some device to measure luminosity? Excuse my ignorance, I'm still a newbie here

With cooling (solid blue line) light maintains much higher output than without cooling (red line), hence draining cell faster, and reducing runtime.

 

[TheGrave]

With cooling (solid blue line) light maintains much higher output than without cooling (red line), hence draining cell faster, and reducing runtime.

First 35 mins - yes, on the second graph. I'm talking about the first graph.