Aug Wave of Mules ***SOLD***

Codeman

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Nov 26, 2004
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2,690
...
Have a happy and SAFE holiday, all you wacky McGizmites. :wave:

McGizmites sounds like either tiny, annoying insects, or a personal hygeine issue best not discussed publicly! :nana:
 

souptree

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Dec 24, 2005
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McGizmites sounds like either tiny, annoying insects, or a personal hygeine issue best not discussed publicly! :nana:

I think it's probably safest and best for all concerned if we don't break everyone here down into one of those two categories! :green: :nana: Although, now that I think about it....

:aaa:
 

gtie

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Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
231
Is the Mule the Ultimate Hiking Light?

Tried out the Mule tonight in two environments 1) neighborhood with street lamps 2) heavily wooded trail. While the light is useful for a neighborhood walk, street lamps drown out the light and I don't think it is the best choice for lighted areas. The light is jaw dropping on wooded trails! It provides approximately 30 diameter feet of light with sufficient projection to maintain down trail visibility. I've never seen anything on the market that combines this size light with such a large beam and 3 hour runtime (I have the mizer version). I'm looking forward to backpacking with this light in September. The low setting should be a good companion for reading in the hammock at night to complement the night time trail light capability. This light fits great in my Nit Ize head lamp band as well. Don thanks for making this light, I think I've found the perfect hiking/camping flashlight.


First McGizmo, very impressed! I've had it in the basement since the sun hasn't set here and really like the distribution of light and lack of a hot spot. This light will be the choice for power outages that occur so frequently here in the mountains. Looking forward to trying it out tonight on a trail to see how it will work for hiking. I'm very glad I went with the Mizer as the longer run time will be much more important for this type of light.

Now just have to decide between the Ti-PD-S or Ti PD 27 for the complement to this light. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

charlesn

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Dec 15, 2003
Messages
371
Re: Mule arrived today!

Now just have to decide between the Ti-PD-S or Ti PD 27 for the complement to this light. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Here's my .02 on the subject, based on having owned these lights, as well as a Mule: the PD-27 is by far the sexier looking light--hence it commands some of the highest resale prices amongst McGizmo's Ti creations--and its larger head will give you increased throw over the PD-S at the expense of pocketability. It's not that you couldn't stuff a PD-27 in your pocket--it's possible--but know that it will not be a comfortable carry.

The PD-S is certainly a looker, even though it's not quite in the same league as the PD-27. But it's easily pocketable form factor makes it an EDC that you'll actually want to carry. As for throw, yes, it does give up something to the PD-27, but it's not a difference that ever made a whole lot of practical difference to me. I hope this info is helpful.
 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
Messages
10,837
Re: Mule arrived today!

Got my Mule today. Beautiful little light with a wonderful wide-angle beam pattern. The fluted bezel with the holes in the rim is great too, doing the function of letting a little light escape when the light is bezel-down on a table, without messing up the front surface with ridiculous crenellations.

I'm experiencing one rather major issue, which is that it takes what feels to me like a tremendous amount of force to operate the piston, especially to reach the high mode. Is that normal? It's so difficult to use as a pushbutton light that for all practical purposes for me, this light is a pure bezel twisty. I guess I like bezel twisties just fine and it would be great to have one with this beam pattern, but the design would be quite a bit different if the light were intended for pure-twisty operation from the beginning.

Any advice?
 

Codeman

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Nov 26, 2004
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2,690
Re: Mule arrived today!

paulr,

Your Mule probably as a #016 silicone o-ring. If you don't mind giving up a bit of protection against water, the slightly smaller #015 silicone o-ring will help quite a bit. The Sandwich Shoppe sells them.
 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
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Re: Mule arrived today!

Codeman, I see an orange O-ring around the bezel and a black one in front of the lens, but none that have anything to do with the pushbutton. Is there another one in there that I can't see, interfering with the piston motion? The piston doesn't exactly flop around freely when the head and battery are removed from the light, but I have the impression that it's the battery spring pressing back against the button, and the spring is quite stiff.
 

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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Paul R,
When you go to activate the light via piston into "high", you are overcoming the following forces and frictions:

1) you are pushing the piston forward with resistance of its seal O-ring and possibly some side resistance of the front end of the piston against the bore of the sleeve.
2) you are compressing the battery spring as the batery is being forced into the piston as you push the piston forward.
3) as soon as you have achieved low, you are pushing the piston against the Kilroy contact and bending it towards the converter PCB as you continue pushing the piston forward until the piston lip finally comes in contact with the contact ring and high is reached.

For starters, it helps to reduce the required travel of the piston by screwing the head down until it is just out of range of low.

If you are experiencing significant force increase going from low to high, you can try bending Kilroy down some toeards the PCB to reduce the amount of deflection required toget from low to high.

As Codeman mentioned, you can switch to a smaller size Piston O-ring to reduce its friction.

You can also cut off the "dead" loop of the battery spring to reduce its compression force. If its compression force is too low, you will have issues with the piston returning to the off position if it encounters significant friction in movement.

If you were anticipating a soft or low force requirement on the piston it may simply be the case that you "can't get there".

You might want to push the piston out of the sleeve so you can see how the mechanics of the design actually work. You can also gage the force required to push the battery down flush into the piston as this is the spring force you will encounter every time you seek to get to high via piston activation.

I don't know if you have one of these that is harder to activate than normal or not. :shrug:

EDIT:

I guess I like bezel twisties just fine and it would be great to have one with this beam pattern, but the design would be quite a bit different if the light were intended for pure-twisty operation from the beginning.

I am curious as to how a twisty version would be quite a bit different?!?! If the piston were fused to the sleeve, this would be the twisty version.
 
Last edited:

Freyth

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Joined
Mar 6, 2007
Messages
294
Re: Mule arrived today!

Got my Mule today. Beautiful little light with a wonderful wide-angle beam pattern. The fluted bezel with the holes in the rim is great too, doing the function of letting a little light escape when the light is bezel-down on a table, without messing up the front surface with ridiculous crenellations.

I'm experiencing one rather major issue, which is that it takes what feels to me like a tremendous amount of force to operate the piston, especially to reach the high mode. Is that normal? It's so difficult to use as a pushbutton light that for all practical purposes for me, this light is a pure bezel twisty. I guess I like bezel twisties just fine and it would be great to have one with this beam pattern, but the design would be quite a bit different if the light were intended for pure-twisty operation from the beginning.

Any advice?

I've had the exact some problem with my S27-PD. Don't worry about it. The spring is a little stiff, so give it time for it to loosen up.
 

paulr

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Joined
Mar 29, 2003
Messages
10,837
Re: Mule arrived today!

Ah, thanks, I didn't realize the Kilroy spring was pushing back with so much force. Yes there is a large force increase between low and high. I may try bending Kilroy downwards after a while but think I'll leave it alone for now. I did open up the light since I never really understood how the mechanism worked before. However I didn't take the piston all the way out of the outer cylinder (not sure how to do that) so I didn't see the piston O-ring. It stands to reason that there is one there, of course.

Yes I'd already adjusted the bezel to be almost "on" and that helped a little. Per Freyth's suggestion maybe I'll just keep using the light for a while in the hope that the spring softens up.
 

TxTroubleMaker

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Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
468
Location
New Braunfels, Texas
Paul,
My wife was having the same issue with her Mule. What I did was cut the spring down a bit as Don suggested, and I used some toothpaste to help smooth out the threads as well. I don't think that the #16 o-ring is the issue, the spring puts quite a bit of pressure on the battery, which in turn puts pressure on the head making it difficult to turn. Take the battery out of the light and see how much easier and smoother it turns, same principal as a cut down spring. Also, be sure to have plenty of Krytox 50/50 on hand so that you can keep your threads clean and well lubed. Hopefully this helps you out a bit...
 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
Messages
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TxTroubleMaker, I'm not especially having trouble turning the head, it's a little bit stiff but that's no big deal. The problem is in pressing the piston. I love the beam pattern of this light but I begin to think maybe there's an Aleph in my future once the Mule heads for them arrive. Meanwhile I might try removing the reflector from my Peak Pacific and see if I can get a beam like this.
 

TxTroubleMaker

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May 21, 2006
Messages
468
Location
New Braunfels, Texas
TxTroubleMaker, I'm not especially having trouble turning the head, it's a little bit stiff but that's no big deal. The problem is in pressing the piston. I love the beam pattern of this light but I begin to think maybe there's an Aleph in my future once the Mule heads for them arrive. Meanwhile I might try removing the reflector from my Peak Pacific and see if I can get a beam like this.

Cutting the spring will definitely make the piston action much softer...
 

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
Messages
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I think I might try Don's suggestion of bending the Kilroy spring downward. The main area where I'm having trouble is going from low to high by pressing the button. I basically can't do it one-handed without an impractical effort. I wonder if there's some less stiff spring material that the Kilroy spring could be made with. Out of curiosity, what's holding it in place on the other side of the pcb? Is it just soldered there? It's really taking considerable force, if I'm understanding what's going on.
 

alauda

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Joined
Nov 9, 2004
Messages
338
Location
UK
Arrived safe and sound in UK...thanks Don
 
Last edited:

paulr

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Mar 29, 2003
Messages
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If anyone cares, I haven't done anything to my Mule in terms of bending or cutting springs, but it has somehow gotten easier to operate all by itself. I'm not sure if that means the springs have softened with a bit of use, or I've gotten stronger, or developed a more effective grip, or whatever. :thumbsup:
 

McGizmo

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May 1, 2002
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Paul,
Glad to hear this! :)

For any of the PD's the piston activation is really for momentary activation and any long term use is best served with twisting activation. I find myself walking around the garden at night with the light in constant on low and use the piston for the ocassional high.
 

paulr

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Joined
Mar 29, 2003
Messages
10,837
I am curious as to how a twisty version would be quite a bit different?!?! If the piston were fused to the sleeve, this would be the twisty version.
I just mean that in a pure twisty light, the complex piston mechanism wouldn't be there, the light would be smaller, with fewer parts, fewer seals, etc. and the overall shape might be a little different. The 2 level switch might also be done differently (not sure). Momentary operation is of course important to many users, for whom a pure twisty wouldn't satisfy. And I do like your description of walking around with the light on low, occasionally using the piston to get a moment of high.
 

TxTroubleMaker

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Joined
May 21, 2006
Messages
468
Location
New Braunfels, Texas
It would be cool to see a T-Body with a Mule head on it, to see the size difference between that and a Mule PD body. Maybe one of the lucky few out there that own the elusive McLux III-T can post some pics, of their's with a Mule head. If I remember right, they should be compatible.:thinking:

Don, I know that you have a ton of things on your plate right now, but it would be awesome if you did another run of the T-bodied lights... I know, I know, wishful thinking, but one can dream, right?:sleepy:
 

kenster

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 6, 2005
Messages
2,095
Location
San Antonio, Texas
TX,

This is the best I could do for you. My computer went :poof: and the pics I had uploaded to Photobucket are all I have left, unfortunately. :ohgeez:

Ken


IMG_4648.jpg
 

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