Automotive Aux driving lights for Ford Ranger


Flashlight Enthusiast
Feb 19, 2006
Do you people have a preferred method of splicing using connectors, or do you solder?

An uninsulated crimp connector followed by soldering and shrink tubing makes a solid and tidy connection.

An insulated crimp connection will work inside the cab, just make sure you're actually using the correct size crimp connector for the wire you're using, and use the proper crimping tool for the connector. There's a difference in tools between insulated and uninsulated connectors.


Newly Enlightened
Jul 24, 2010
Thank you for those suggestions.

I do not have a crimper so I will do what I usually do which is neatly twist wires together, solder and heat shrink. I sometimes heat shrink a second time depending upon the location under the hood.

And yes, I always fuse.


Newly Enlightened
Jan 18, 2010
Oh, boy; here we go again. See previous discussions here, here, here, and here.

Made in China or Taiwan entirely of plastic and using non-automotive bulbs and not approved or certified for any kind of on-road use and hyped up with silly colored plastic filter plates that don't actually do anything useful, let alone what the maker promises...

...and marketed out of Australia.

Actually, they're made in a South Australian factory. There is a cheaper copy (Nite Stalker Roo Lite - marketed by the Australian Cibie importers, Hansa Parts) which uses the same projector bulbs (apparently it's easy to break the pins off them when inserting them!), was designed by a former Lightforce designer, and is made in Taiwan. For everything else, I agree with you, and your knowledgeable colleague Mr Stern - they are not something I'd buy.

Stick to lights made by Cibie, Hella or Bosch, particularly their larger rally lights. The Oscar SC is an excellent choice:thumbsup:, as are the Hella Rallye lights. For an English (USA) website showing the Cibie beam patterns, try . They used to also be shown on Valeo's UK website, but have since disappeared.


Mar 26, 2004
Clever idea, but not something I'd use on an on-road vehicle. First off, the relay bears no brand I can see. Secondly, while Ontario's provincial lighting code is presently rather lax and vague, that doesn't mean it'll always be that way, and most North American jurisdictional codes that talk about auxiliary lighting contain hookup-related language that might give a police officer enough interpretive room to decide the smart module thingy doesn't count as a separate switch. In the third place, this is unnecessary complication, which means unnecessary potential failures. Also, just one power output wire instead of two means you'll have to piggyback both lamps onto the one wire. That'll work, but it's cheesy. Also can't tell if the relay is potted or just its socket is, but if the relay itself is potted, you're screwed if the relay gives up the ghost. Just do it the regular way with a switch and relay, using good quality, name-brand parts.
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