AW Soft Starter 5761 Build

racer7

Newly Enlightened
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Jan 31, 2007
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Ordered a couple of AW's new soft starters and got them this morning - fast shipping as usual!

This may be the easiest hotwire build short of a ROP that leaves the stock switch assembly. Here's the list- takes maybe 30 minutes to do a 5761 in a 2C which is what I did first. A lot of this is in AW's switch thread.

1) Get 5/64 allen wrench and pull stock switch. Can be saved for a KIU mod or whatever in the future. Also remove retaining ring.
2) Get out your dremel and remove anodizinig where the switch retaining screw contacts the body. A little 1/8" carbide ball bit on a longish shaft works well for this.
3) Install all of the extra washers AW provides to raise the switch head a bit (I ended up a wee bit short of a proper focus on a 5761 using a FM fairly smooth reflector (VLOP, SMO?? that I had that was already drilled for the 5761- normally I use FM MOPs but was to lazy to drill a few more tonight).
4) Slide switch up the barrel, center and screw tight. Replace rubber switch cover.
5) Complete with 2 AW C Li-Ions, an FM tall tailcap for an easy fit with stock spring and AWs cells, and a UCL lens change (throw the stock plastic one in the trash - no decent light should have a lens that funky).
6) Put in the 5761 and have at it (or other fine bulb of your choice)


AWs device works exactly as he says. Starts gently, cycle L-M-H-L-M-H, etc and goes off with a couple second hold. Can also be made to flash if one is interested in that. There is a bit of yellowing at the lowest setting and a lesser amount at the mid setting but not enough even at the low setting to be hugely annoying (Its still whiter than a lot of older incans). For comparison, the lowest setting using a 5761 produces about the same visual impact as a fairly potent single Cree or Seoul LED light at 20 ft distances. So this is a very practical way to stretch battery time on a more powerful hotwire.

Thanks AW - a very nice part, well made. Great service. Simple install. (that provides a leftover stock switch to mod to some more usable form). I hope you're planning to make a raft of these things and keep developing other versions. This should become a very popular part.

Racer7
 
Well, I couldn't resist a little playing even if I was too lazy to break out the drills.

Removed the 5761 and VLOP and subbed an 1111 with an FM MOP. That focussed easily and one certainly wouldn't need all spacer washers p proably none or one.

So you can skip the "add the washers" step in all likelihood, if you're doing an 1111 with an FM reflector.
 
Sounds like we were playing with the same toys today, racer7.

With my 5761 I needed to use the brass washers and all 6 shims (3+3) to get a good hot spot without too many artifacts. Either the 5761 really shows the batwings, or most probably - I don't know what I'm doing. I am using a LOP and may need to go LS or even HS.

I agree that the AW's soft-starter is a very worthwhile device. If AW happens to come up with a replacement for AWR's "hotdriver" - now that would make my day.

If you have any thoughts or tips on the best reflector vs. least artifacts for the 5761, please pass along the info.

Have fun!
 
Sorry for asking this, but why do you remove the anodize where the switch was. I tried searching, but I couldn't find an answer.

BTW, I too had to use all the shims and the brass washers to get a good spot for my 5761 set up too.
 
I did mine last night with a fivemega MOP reflector. No shims used - beam is not perfect, but since I am taking it apart to ship back for the Vreg mod, I'll worry about it in a few weeks...

Overall, a very interesting and useful mod.
 
Ibut since I am taking it apart to ship back for the Vreg mod, I'll worry about it in a few weeks...

Overall, a very interesting and useful mod.


What vreg mod are you reffering to? vreg for the aw incan driver? Please say yes.

Nevermind I found the vreg fix, off to the post office.
 
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