Since i had presented my work here, i was contacted by member Ledaddict (Bryan), to discuss the potential of making him a custom lantern(s). An e-mail conversation was made
in order to identify what it would to be created.
* a superior quality vintage hurricane style lantern
* made to provide considerable luminosity (1000 lumens+) with full dimming capability
* robust in making destined to hold in time
* powered by 12volt (main PSU adaptor or battery used during power outage, camping etc)
Bryan, one of the most patient individuals i have known, was being informed of the progress, we were discussing technical issues, ideas,how-to(s) etc.
I must confess, i have been inexcusable delayed (2 months +) at making those lanterns since i have experimented (time allowed) with almost everything from circuits
and IC boost regulators chips to brittle 2523 samsung smd leds etc + the fact that most electronics components come from China and take an age to arrive. After the time consuming experimentation came to a halt, finnaly lanterns were assembled and tested.
Kirkman No2 Champion Hurricane style chassis
Working voltage 12v (max 1.7 amp draw around 90% efficiency)
Power output 0.5 / 0.8 - 12 / 20 watts (potentiometer regulated)
output: (flyback) 80-300 volts DC. At 330v circuit halts.
takes an ordinary corn led bulb that is modified to run in dc rather AC, with max dimensions 5 cm circumference and 13cm long. Standard E27 socket.
Current Led Bulb 48 x 5630 smd leds,approx power input 13watts out 1000 lumens average
wick controller provides the dimming and on/off function and has an auxiliary master switch for rapid start.
Tell me stupid but now i noticed your comment. sorry.
Concerning the mild weatherproof for outdoor light, i am working on it. Generally, high lumens output are (so far) incompatible with water resistance but solution is around the corner.. The lowest posible output is done lower... in few days or a week i will present the next K-series.
Parasitic drain in the I-series is null. In the K-series that is to come is about 60-70uA.
Today i am going to present my third lantern of the K series. Generally K-series, is the result of further improving my lantern making technique and addressing a bunch of issues as
* increased luminosity with more efficiency
* dimming down to few lumens
* replaceable led bulbs
* using high efficiency LEDs of still warmer white color
* simpler electronic design
Overally, the vintage outlook of the lantern is pretty much the same as the previous series i.e. modified petroleum hurricane lanterns, but the above attributes were achieved after hard work and lots and lots time of experimentation in order to put all together despite the inherent restrictions of making such lanterns.
About the KΓ lantern
Chassis: Standard 30cm height (12''), plain type, reinforced with standard glass treated so as to be semi-frosted (antiglare) and labeled
the "bulb": An improvised LED fasten-heatsink 5-sided element that has mounted x 15 (5 each side) 2323SMD Samsung SPMWHT221MD5WAW0 see datasheet here http://www.led1.de/shop/files/Samsung/SPMWHT221MD5WAW0S0.pdf
Ahhh... those tiny and rather expensive SMD leds are a pain to be handled and soldered without damaging them. But the light they emit is almost heavenly. Warm white (2700K)
That improvised bulb is mounted on a GU10 male socket that fits on a porcelain female socket permanently fastened on the lantern chassis. If ever for some reason the bulb is damaged, easily can be replaced, let aside
the fact that LED technology improves month after month so the 125 lumens / watt of this bulb could be easily 200 or even 250 in few years.
the batts: ΚΓ lantern once open the bottom lid, takes in a similar fashion with all lanterns made by me so far, takes 3 x C alkaline batteries of 1.5 volts each. They are calculated to last according energizer's datasheet around 12 hours
the circuit: A use of MC34063A boost controller IC, that inputs from 4.5 volts down to 2.5 volts whereas providing stable power output around 1.35 watts. Its efficiency is around 85% at max setting and in lowest voltage.
(meaning in most current draw for those who know about electronics). In other words, lamp's brightness is undiminished irrelevantly of batteries' status (unless exhausted). At that power lamp shines with 140+ lumens at
Minimum luminosity is less than a lumen. Once closed (FET switched) no quiescent current. The circuit needs some 25mW to run. Once the bulb is removed circuit will stay idle (no burn). A pot is attached to circuit for
voltage level adjustment (power out restricted)
weight: Less than 900gr with batteries (2 pounds)
Forgive my tech enthusiasm but i am an enthusiast
i made this lantern having in mind those who want a vintage, unique made lamp, robust, that needs no maintenance (higher power rechargeable li-cells needs), that will stay year after year in place and when it is needed it would be there to provide all the light you need and create an wonderful atmosphere. Also being independent of charger will continue happily to light once supplied with a fresh set of batteries.
During my holidays back in home, i searched the cellar and surprising i found my very first lantern i had when i was little child. Its a BAT brand, No 158 made in GDR or Germany Democratic Repuplic or Eastern Germany. This must be more than thirty years old (its 25 years in my possession and was given to me).
It was partially rusted, its tinning damaged and in general nonfunctional. After treating it with acid to remove rust and paint with a anti-rust and then black, i proceed with the standard methodology of converting it to a electrical lantern. It follows the general lines of K series, as replaceable bulb capability, voltage boost controller with short circuit protection (makes use of the FP5138 IC), adjusted max output power 250-400 lumens (set to 350).
Its named KA. Has no protection circuit embeded and must take protected 18650 cells. A genuine antique lantern converted to powerful led one.
I beg your forgiveness about my insult to any knowledgeable CPFer, but if i may say, those near to recycle cells are only intended for test running, test charging and just staffing the newly made lanterns just to confirm they operate as intended!
A lantern with a driver that can handle a wide range of input volts would be nice. Something that could run on internal 18650's or AA good in emergency to have optional power source, also maybe a plug in external power source such as 12v car battery, power supply or R/C hobby lipo pack's. Possibly a external jack to charge with USB type chargers, such as used for cell phone and of course a USB output jack so we can see and charge cell phone, hide ports under fuel cap to keep rain out.
Okay I get a little out there with ideas, just the 18650/AA power would be cool.
PS forgot to say, some cool looking lamps you built.
hey CMAG, a wide input of volatges huh? Sounds nice. The case of my rechargeables with 18650 cells inside, that will need a separate SEPIC driver for charging the batteries or a separate / additional charger. Can be done. I was thinking about creating a foldable solar panel too, but the costs goes skyhigh
During last holidays took my time and worked all previous half year old to ancient lantern chassis gathering.
A lot of work done and destined to be done also.. in my next trip to workshop/
A lot of areas in lantern making to master, as compact lighting elements making (resembling fire and being more attractive too), pcb making in a batched mode by etching copper clad plates (cad design etc), lantern restoring (is an art on its own), re positioning lantern elements (led, the way lantern opens etc), wood working (i plan at making wooden boxes from now on) lanterns to be carried around and protected during transport / shipping etc.
Having all my 3 last model lanterns put for sale in this forum and sold (reviewing is awaited please! i started processing the second batch.
Brands that will house my latest working circuit and lighting elements include Meva, Feurehand, ASA, Chalwyn, Rhewum and Dietz for the time being. Colors and artistic appearance is something that i am experimenting too without wanting to compromise longevity of chassis.
I am pleased to see the lantern arrived nice and sound.
Not long before, all my previous lanterns had a lighting element comprised of a pentahedron made of pcb having the smds LEDs spaced enought apart so as to be distinguished. I had the lighting element redesigned made of copper clad double side (FR4) epoxy plates that apart from looking more beautifully by the shinning copper, it possess greater heatsinking abilities and allows a denser smd led spacing.
Either old or new lighting elements look nice, but the denser one (i think) is definetely an improvement by having the leds simmulate the fire.
Plates are 10mm x 30mm wide x 5 of them comprising the pentahedron, each one having 3 smd mounted spaced around 5mm from each other.
Unfortunately i have not a photo to post for now, but i will soon.
It has been some time since made a lantern. Unfortunately my ambitious plans for creating new articles have faced the hard reality, thus i am standing before you just to show my three new made lanterns:
It is about the restoration and rectification of:
An old WWII era Feuerhand 260 and two post WWII era Rhewhums. Those are the prides of German manufacture in hurricane lantern.
Besides restoring and working with really old models that are history themselves, i have made some progress regarding the circuit in use. More specifically,
- Lanterns can work within a voltage range of 3-13 volts. So with the correct power cord, a car bat can be used interchangeably with Li-ion cells.
- Fusing has been evolved in order to protect the circuit (over voltage transients, reverse polarity protection, increased moisture resistance etc)
Fabulous stuff Baroutologos! I love this idea and it is clear you have put many long hours of work into your passion.
I have a question regarding the voltage range in you previous post....... With the engine running in a vehicle, the alternator can push the nominal system voltage up to 14.5V - 15.0V. Would this cause problems for your lantern which you rate at 13V maximum?
I ask because there was a similar thread some time ago regarding running a Maha C9000 batery charger in a moving vehicle. There was quite a lot of speculation and I'm not sure a definitive answer was agreed on.
We can be pretty sure that someone, sometime, might use the car battery option (via a lighter adaptor perhaps) with the engine running.
Yes, this is the case unfortunately. The car alternator or just any alternator of a 12v powered engine starter, tops up its battery at 14,3 to 14,6 volts. Depending model etc There are also transient voltages in many cases exceeding 15 volts.
My lantern's internal fusing will have go off long before this (at 13,2-13,6 volts).
There is a definite way to tackle with this problem. The answer lies, instead of using a boost-topology in the circuit (that in simpler in component terms and takes lesser space) to be used a SEPIC topology.
This requires some redesign of the pcb, but nothing that cannot be managed.
If there is such a wish and for use in larger larger lantern models (as those recently mentioned that have internal space for that) i can offer in the future such an option e.g. running voltage 3-24 volts.