Baroutologos's Handcrafted - Rechargeable LED Hurricane Lanterns

Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Hi all,

This post has to do with sharing some info regarding the developing of long wanting new type of lighting element.

photo%20%206_zpscs68sawt.jpg

Goals were:

1*easier to make
2*lower profile for use to tiny lanterns also
3*more compact lighting element with 5 high power LEDs for creating a light emitting spot rather area.
4*Higher achievable output as much as 1000 lumens
5*Can be replaced

Leds used for this new lighting element approach are seoul's semiconductors SZ5-M1-WW-C8-V1V2-HA 80CRI min, 2700K
data and datasheet: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...WW-C8-V1-V2-HA/?qs=mip/k2qjOHp3JEBT5K%2bvPw==

**
Despite my efforts, different heatsinks used and interfaces between heatsink and lighting element (pentahedron) goal 4 was not achieved. Actually there is only a marginal improvement in heatsinking than old element whereas the old one was limited to 3.5-4w of heat dissipation the new one goes 4-4.5 watts.

I have replaced the custom brass heatsink with a quite large copper sheet than presents an very small thermal resistance (big heatsinking ability) and found out that the systems thermal resistance marginally imrpoves. Major thermal resisstance comes from the very construction of the pentahedron.. Temporarily i am out of ideas.. perhaps a more heat conductive solder...
So as it stands now, new lighting elements can deliver top 500 (4.3w power dissipation) lumens reaching some 95 degrees celcius at LEDs at that power level with an ambient 25 degrees celcius temp.

Extensive temp measurements were taken to conclude those.
when attemping to over power the new lighting element above 5w input, then thermal runaway is a major concern that leads to further input power that surely in the long term will damage the leds.


**
Beside all these obstacles and limitations, IMO, the new element is undeniably an improvement.

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/baroutologos/slideshow/9-6-2015
or
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/baroutologos/library/9-6-2015

**

your comments are welcomed

cheers,
barou
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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those days found me in my workshop finalizing and test running now, 2 of my new teched lanterns, having λ-series circutry and all other features as screwable bottom lid, removable potentiometer in wick turret, new slim and more powerful lighting element.

Get a preview, for your eyes only.

Models are Frowo 500 (black hot blast lantern)
DSC00014_zpsyoyqqonl.jpg


Metaloglobus 104E (cherry red cold blast type lantern)

DSC00034_zpstz4ctmk6.jpg



more pics http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/baroutologos/slideshow/23-6-2015

note: imperfections as paint scrathes will be address at the finilizing stage.


cheers,
Barou
 
Poppy

Poppy

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Hi all,

This post has to do with sharing some info regarding the developing of long wanting new type of lighting element.

photo%20%206_zpscs68sawt.jpg

Goals were:


**
Despite my efforts, different heatsinks used and interfaces between heatsink and lighting element (pentahedron) goal 4 was not achieved. Actually there is only a marginal improvement in heatsinking than old element whereas the old one was limited to 3.5-4w of heat dissipation the new one goes 4-4.5 watts.

I have replaced the custom brass heatsink with a quite large copper sheet than presents an very small thermal resistance (big heatsinking ability) and found out that the systems thermal resistance marginally improves. Major thermal resistance comes from the very construction of the pentahedron.. Temporarily i am out of ideas.. perhaps a more heat conductive solder...
So as it stands now, new lighting elements can deliver top 500 (4.3w power dissipation) lumens reaching some 95 degrees celcius at LEDs at that power level with an ambient 25 degrees celcius temp.


your comments are welcomed

cheers,
barou
Barou,
Perhaps if you OPEN the TOP, and the BOTTOM of the pentahedron, so that air may circulate due to convection, I don't know if that would help, but it is a thought.
Another is to have another copper heat sink at the top, similar to the one on the bottom.

Maybe a finned heatsink? Aren't there some cylindrical finned CPU heat sinks?
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Barou,
Perhaps if you OPEN the TOP, and the BOTTOM of the pentahedron, so that air may circulate due to convection, I don't know if that would help, but it is a thought.
Another is to have another copper heat sink at the top, similar to the one on the bottom.

Maybe a finned heatsink? Aren't there some cylindrical finned CPU heat sinks?

Hello poppy,

Actually the top of the pentahedron is open with an 3mm hole some as the bottom. It is not shown so clearly in the picture but the sides of the pentahedron are not that hermetically sealed together.

I have not any photo handy right now, but i started with a star type finned heatsink for leds. I also try other things. Nah.. it is not pretty. Especially in small and medium sized lanterns where distance between glass and heatsink is small, the finned heatsink does not look so cool. Let aside their geometries, produce thicker or not so thicker shadows.
What i am saying is next to impossible to get what i really want except make it. (brass is cool also)

***

Bear in mind that i have soldered for experimentation the pentahedron in a extra large copper sheet (large heatsink). Leds are cooled only a bit more and not substantially.
Its about pentahedron's very structure that must be altered in order to attain higher power outputs.

***

Anyway, it does a goood job for power about 4-5 watts. (450-550 lumens) and it seems good as a top limit, at least for now :)


cheers
 
Poppy

Poppy

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***

Anyway, it does a goood job for power about 4-5 watts. (450-550 lumens) and it seems good as a top limit, at least for now :)


cheers

Barou,
Most, or at least many LED lanterns top out in the 300-400 lumen range, and there must be a reason for that. One is that at that level of output, they produce too much glare. So while it may be possible to create a lantern that can output 1000 lumens, it may not be all that desirable. You are doing nice work, and your last piece looks nice too! :thumbsup:
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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hey poppy, i think you are absolute right. Despite my inability at the moment to reach 1000lumens without damaging leds, a handheld lantern in the absence of ambient light above 300-400 lumens makes glaring problems.
Its my firm belief that higher power output should be acompanied by a reflector that will allow lantern to be hanged above eye line of sight and push lots of light below without glaring anyone.

cheers,
 
Last edited:
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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first Reflector Lantern

i have been busy lately (time allowing) at finilizing my long worked λ-series lanterns.
This post is about my first lantern that came with a reflector (hood).

Take a look of a hooded lantern

bat158%201_zpswdbmvoky.jpg



slideshow http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/baroutologos/slideshow/6-7-2015


***
For artistic shake, i let lantern unfinished, actually it is tinned and the tin has tarnished from places to places but still holds ok cocnerning rust protection.
The hood on the other hand was in a rather poor condition of rust.
Required, derusting andsurface preparing. Actually i applied on this, the black oxide process, thus "painting it" black on the outsidewithout changing its dimensions since clearances are really tight.

That reflector is rather small around 20 cm diam and was made for cosmetic reasons rather real reflecting job. Hence it was painted black inside and outside.
Inside surface now is iron polished and laquered so as to not rust and reflect light, and outside laquered black oxide.

This BAT158 lantern has its red led also removed from usual position, perpedicular so as to light the dimmer/on-off switch.


cheers,
Barou
 
RI Chevy

RI Chevy

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Re: first Reflector Lantern

Awesome looking lantern with the bonnet. :thumbsup: :drool:
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Re: first Reflector Lantern

thank you for your support
 
FRITZHID

FRITZHID

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I have several LED converted lanterns and the glare is tough to deal with. One way I was thinking of combating this is employing the use of a retractable Mylar reflector. It could be wound around a thin spool and pulled over ½ of the lens when needed, reflecting light forward while keeping the user glare free, then rewound when 360° light is desired.
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Hello FRITZHID,

Nice to have you here.
Yea, glare is always an issue for a lantern. I feel that i should mention few properties of glare.

* The darker the surroundings for any given lighting source, the more glaring it seems.
* The more bright generally and naturally, a lighting source is the glariest is
* The more light concetration has a lighting source per emmiting surface, the glariest is

As a method for combating the issue, as is known , i always frost the globes with special vitro paint.
diffusal_zpsn9tj1qoo.jpg


If at high, the lighting source becomes ""blurred" to an intense-light-ball sized about a small light bulb, whereas the rest of surface of glass globe has the brightness diminishing as move away from centre.
Personally, i consider it is good enough for an output of 300-500 lumens even in the darker surroundings. Its a matter of personal preference though.


***
Regarding the clever trick for redirecting light forward when the lantern is used for walking around..
I have seen something similar in the past, e.g a lantern with a bull eye.That is a lense embeded to the glass globe or used as an add on to redirect light forward, but still glaring user behind.
lantern%20with%20bulleye_zpsivnzjfvp.jpg


I have some ideas regarding switching modes between lets say 100-140 degrees light redirection and common 360 degree wide area illumination, but still far from it.

cheers,
Barou
 
Poppy

Poppy

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I have several LED converted lanterns and the glare is tough to deal with. One way I was thinking of combating this is employing the use of a retractable Mylar reflector. It could be wound around a thin spool and pulled over ½ of the lens when needed, reflecting light forward while keeping the user glare free, then rewound when 360° light is desired.

Fritz, that is pretty clever
If the spool is held vertically, then the shield/reflector can be wrapped around the lens of the lantern and the user can vary the number of degrees that are shielded, anywhere from 1 to perhaps 180 degrees.

Barou,
That is a really cool looking cyclops of a lantern you have there. :thumbsup:
 
FRITZHID

FRITZHID

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Fritz, that is pretty clever
If the spool is held vertically, then the shield/reflector can be wrapped around the lens of the lantern and the user can vary the number of degrees that are shielded, anywhere from 1 to perhaps 180°

That was my exact thinking! :-D
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Today i am going present two new vids.

Camping lantern

The first video is about having the lantern working as a camping lantern drawing power from a RV or Photovoltaic/Battery installation or any external dc power source as long as incoming voltage is 4-18volts. (note above 7volts cells are not charging)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVgWJkF_bHM

Polarity protection is also there.


Water resistance


I had seriously understimated my new lanterns series, resistance to water.
Below is a vid that will demonstrated lanterns ability to withstand serious moisture, survive and operate in the same time.

Note, i am not claiming indefinite water proofness rather resistance, since prolong exposure to water, will find its way for damaging cells, circuitry, potentiometer and the very chassis of the lantern.

see
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRyvUAT_eOE
this video has english subs


comments welcomed,

cheers
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Poppy, a well known cpf member has repeatedly said that lanterns have some limitations. I quote "Lanterns are good for outdoor use.. the problems with lanterns is that they produce a glaring light"

***

I have made so many efforts in order to make the antique upcycled lanterns, apart of items of beuty and nostalgia to be of actual use, robust and versatile in power input terms as well as parts replacement.

What always eluded me was.. a reflector. Some lanterns i aquire have their original reflectors and this is great. For some others, a reflector can be procured at shops as kirkman lanterns or similar.
But for the majority of retrofited lanterns i make no reflector matches that is commercial available.

So, with patience and through trial and error, i can proudly present before thee, my versions of reflectors.

see them here.

***

reflectors%201_zpsa29gg85r.jpg


In the above photo, the black reflector, is a facory made, orginal GDR BAT 158 reflector. This is purely cosmetic end had both its surfaces painted black.
In any version of the lantern, color or tin , the reflector i had is black both ways.

Next to it, lie two generic versions of my reflectors, one that fits lanterns and secures into place with fasteners and the other with "legs".
Both have their merits and draw backs but in respect to their functionality, they are both equal. Let aside that are generic type and fits BAT158, Feuerhand 275, Metaloglobus 104E etc

They are constructed in two halves that are joined with M2.5 screws together. This way i can shipp them folded with no added cost and economy of space.

***
I have made also reflectors for hotblast lantern models.
I intend to make them a staple item and each lantern i sell to have its reflector.


***
why reflector?

Reflector's functionality, aside for being more cool in my oppion
  • allows lantern to be hunged overhead, avoiding the line of sight to be at the level of light source, thus blinding and "wasting lumens" in subjective perceived lighted area.
  • redirected lights downwards eliminating lanterns tank's shawdow.
  • redirected lightt downward is especially usefull to when walking with lantern (not blinding) and in outdoor situations that light that goes to sky is lost light.

no%20light%20upwards%20directed_zpssruemyyl.jpg
 
Last edited:
Poppy

Poppy

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Barou,
The addition of a reflector/shield is a nice touch. :thumbsup:

Last year, while fooling with various diffuser shapes. I discovered that the color of the reflector made a difference in the color/tint of the reflected light. I was working with cool white emitters, and found that I preferred natural wood to a pure white, or shiny metal, reflector. It probably isn't as efficient, but looks nicer/ was gentler on the eyes.
 
Baroutologos

Baroutologos

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Hello Poppy,

Yes you have absulutely right. I have made so far, stainless steel mirror like reflectors to polished iron. I prefer tha later personally. Glaring reflectors imho is the last thing i want.

cheers,
Barou

ps: yes, reflector tint surely will affect overall light color emmited
 

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