BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part IX)

[old4570]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Mine's just like how you described, it gets quite warm, but not uncomfortably so after a few minutes of use, and then the temperature remains sorta constant when handheld.

That's what USUALLY happens..

However, yesterday the light seemed to be unsually hot just before turning yellow. I have no idea what might have caused it to . It was just in medium mode.

I don't think it's the high current is the main cause, but I might be wrong. If it is then why didn't the LED burn out when I was doing the runtime tests on maximum many months ago? It's weird..mm... I got 40+ minutes on Max using a 14500 back then.

LED or driver ? Oooops - seen the pictures .

 

[Benson]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Mine's just like how you described, it gets quite warm, but not uncomfortably so after a few minutes of use, and then the temperature remains sorta constant when handheld.

That's what USUALLY happens..

However, yesterday the light seemed to be unsually hot just before turning yellow. I have no idea what might have caused it to . It was just in medium mode.

I don't think it's the high current is the main cause, but I might be wrong. If it is then why didn't the LED burn out when I was doing the runtime tests on maximum many months ago? It's weird..mm... I got 40+ minutes on Max using a 14500 back then.

Odd. I suspect something else may have shorted in the driver, overheating the whole head. If it were a simple heatsinking failure (the LED came unstuck from its heatsink), or just that your light always overdrives, the whole light should have been no warmer than normal -- your description of the whole light getting hot indicates excessive heat generation somewhere.

 

[kramer5150]

Re: Akoray K-106 Dying / Dead LED (Pics)

Kramer thanks for your explaination. The funny thing is I wasn't even running it at high when I noticed the warming of the LED. I once left it on high for 40 minutes with 14500s and it seemed to be doing fine.

Sure np... if it over heated on medium or low that sounds like a driver failure, like it failed and ran the XR-E direct drive. The charred patch in the center of the phosphorus is caused by the lethal combination of excess current or voltage passing through the die and insufficient heat sinking. Most likely not by heat applied externally from the cell or DC board.

See my video here, where I wave solder/desolder an XR-E placing it on a HOT stove burner. I did not measure the temperature to the XR-E, but its probably in the 250 degree F range (hot enough to flow the solder), yet the XR-E die remains un-burnt.

If that flashlight were actually hot enough to scald the phosphor die, you'd suffer a 3rd degree burn in a microsecond trying to handle it, plastic rubber and soft parts would melt and the 14500 cell would probably show signs of extensive thermal damage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHyRLQexJpA

 

[old4570]

Which MC-E

TrustFire TR-C2 Cree MC-E = dx/sku.18857

Or

UltraFire C1 CREE MC-E = ProductId=7133 SKU: S007103 KD

:thinking:

 

[jakeman]

Battery Question

I have been lurking on these forums for the last couple of days and I have a question I just can't seem to find by searching. I just recently purchased a Romisen RF-F4 Q5 torch which should be here in a couple of days. However the more I look into the proper battery types the more I get confused. I believe it can either use 3.6V CR123A's or 17670's. The CR123's seem short and fat and the 17670's seem longer and thinner. Can this light really use etiher type? If anyone could fill me in on the proper type I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance, this is a great forum. :thumbsup:

 

[Marduke]

Re: Battery Question

The light is designed for 2xRCR123.

It will work on 1x17670, but much of the runtime will be direct drive, with decreasing brightness.

 

[Disco888]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Hello, just signed up and
I just found this thread tonight (starting at part 1)---should have checked the dates of the posts---that was a lot of reading but I've learnt a lot.....its so good having info like this to hand for relative newcomers like me..

Can i just ask if anybody can explain the differences between the Eastward lights---YJ 18WD, YJ 18WF, YJ 18WA,....,YJ XAQ5????

Is there still a problem with the xaq5 still damaging the leds? I read about it in part 4ish of this thread but didn't see the conclusion ...

Cheers,
disco

 

[Lumencraft (Matt)]

Re: Which MC-E

HI old4570,

I am not familiar with the KD light, but I do have one of the MC-E lights from DX like the one you mentioned.

I actually was impressed with the light for the price. The best features on it for me were the body. It is very thick and sturdy for a cheap light, and mine has great threads on it. The tail switch feels better than any other I have had. I also like the color tint I received, its very white, cool white but not a lot of blue in it at all in my eyes.

Cons for this light are the driver could be a lot better in my opinion. I doubt that the emitter actually sees 2.8 amp on high. I changed mine to direct drive and it was definitely brighter. Which brings us to the next point. Heat sinking could be better for this light. The drop in barley touches the sides so head did not transfer well. To manage the head from DD I had to stuff foil in around the drop in, and then it transferred the heat to the body just fine.

The beam has a few rings around the out side edge, but over all it was not too bad. I knew before I got it that I would probably mod it so for me it was a lot of fun for a little money.

 

[Disco888]

Suggestions wated for wf-500 upgrade to LED...

Hi everyone,

I've got an Ultrafire wf-500 and want to change it to LED. Wot is the best way to go about it? I'm still after a decent throw but am not sure the best way to continue. I am a newbie to this game and electronics is not my strong point, but i'm willing to give it a go.

Wot suggestions do you have?

Disco:wave:

 

[kramer5150]

Re: Which MC-E

IMHO the TR-C2 is not suitable for higher current modules. It doesn;t really have the body to module contact to dissipate the heat. Now if you keep it on for short bursts only, its fine. Its longer runs that drive up emitter temperatures that are risky IMHO. Although this an be alleviated to some extent with some foil wrap action, to try and capitalize on what body contact it does have.

I have been impressed with the ultrafire 503B. Its body tube has a very deep-welled business end that cradles the drop in all the way from the pill-end of the reflector to where the taper begins. Pack the module in foil and its a GREAT heat sinking design. Note that you still need to use the large spring to conduct current, and because of this there are no bezel gaps. IMHO the only way to further improve the 503B is to raise the "ridge" up inside the body, such that the pill direct contacts the body, without the large spring.

I don't have any experience with the C1... you might want to consider the solarforce 1x18650.

A very generous CPF'er is offering free 6/9P boring on the CPF marketplace. you could always go that route... my 6P is currently in the shop:thumbsup:

 

[old4570]

Re: Which MC-E

I have the Solarforce L2 18650 Bodies [ 3 By next week ]

Im thinking one will be R2 - another will be MC-E and the 3rd body will become 2 x 18650 R2 , and the mini will go back to R2 ..

Ive wanted a C1 for a while , so combined with MC-E , I think they all use the same 3 mode driver , so ?? , maybe waiting a while for another driver ?
Might be time for a Cree R4 or a S2 .

The MC-E with Al-foil runs fine in my Mini L2 . I was just thinking of adding another MC-E into the rotation .

 

[bessiebenny]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Can i just ask if anybody can explain the differences between the Eastward lights---YJ 18WD, YJ 18WF, YJ 18WA,....,YJ XAQ5????

Is there still a problem with the xaq5 still damaging the leds? I read about it in part 4ish of this thread but didn't see the conclusion ...

Cheers,
disco

Welcome to CPF disco. =)

The Eastward lights are fairly cheapy (in terms of quality) LED lights.
The lights you mentioned are all very similar. Just different shapes.

The LED which dimmed is actually a common problem with any LED lights.
Usually it has nothing to do with the flashlight itself. Just bad luck really.
Not all emitters last 100000+ hours. You can end up with a dud emitter.
But, it can happen due to overheating caused by bad heatsinking.
Wasn't the case with the XAQ5 I had. So it turned out to be bad luck.

Regarding conversion of WF-500 to LED, I'm not 100% sure what's available.
Qucik search at DX gave me this option. But not sure if it's the best option.

I would rather recommend maybe getting a new light instead for best outcome.
eg. You can get a Romisen RC-F4 for about the same price as that drop in.

 

[old4570]

Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*18650)

Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*18650)

Anyone have one yet ?

 

[old4570]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Welcome to CPF disco. =)

The Eastward lights are fairly cheapy (in terms of quality) LED lights.
The lights you mentioned are all very similar. Just different shapes.

The LED which dimmed is actually a common problem with any LED lights.
Usually it has nothing to do with the flashlight itself. Just bad luck really.
Not all emitters last 100000+ hours. You can end up with a dud emitter.
But, it can happen due to overheating caused by bad heatsinking.
Wasn't the case with the XAQ5 I had. So it turned out to be bad luck.

Regarding conversion of WF-500 to LED, I'm not 100% sure what's available.
Qucik search at DX gave me this option. But not sure if it's the best option.

I would rather recommend maybe getting a new light instead for best outcome.
eg. You can get a Romisen RC-F4 for about the same price as that drop in.

RE option :
The driver sux's , 580mA , thats just weak ! Should be able to push at least 700mA to a Cree P4 . I see people knocking the P4 when they should be knocking the driver .

Ive been looking at a WF-500 . and wondering about a Q5 and driver swap . First I need to build a 5 Mode Q5 Twisty 1 x CR123A , as well a Q5 P60 drop in for testing drivers .. PS/ When will we see some R4's or R5's ??
A WF-500 with a Q5 driven around 1Amp would be nice ... dx/sku.6998

 

[richardcpf]

Re: Ultrafire MCD-WF-2000F SSC P7-D-SWO HA-III 3-Mode 800-Lumen LED Flashlight (3*186

This is just another Ultrafire P7 light with a 3*18650 battery holder.

Nothing special about it. Throw few more bucks in you you are getting quality superbright lights, such as the eagletac megalight, tiablo ACE, legion2, fenix tk40, solarforce T700, etc.

 

[Disco888]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Cheers bessiebenny and old4570.

Might go for one of the Eastwards--if only to try out another make

Had seen that P4 upgrade on DX but wasn't convinced it is the best option (like you say) --will have a trawl through some more threads and see where I end up.

Keep up the good work
Disco

 

[Wiggle]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

Sorry if I missed it, didn't see it on the list. Anyone have experience with UltraFire A10 HA-III Cree Q5-WC HA-III 220-Lumen sku 19187. It looks pretty nice and the HAIII is a cool feature. Was thinking about picking one up.

 

[BurlyEd]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

I am on my second UltraFire A10. My sister wanted the first one, so I bought a second. I never really liked it though, until I tried it with a 14500. That makes it into a whole new flashlight! No more AA's for it.

For the money, I actually prefer the A30. But I would buy another AKOray K-106 with a 14500 first of all.

I just got an UltraFire C308 (Q5) that I am very impressed with. I have not seen any mention of it anywhere, but I really like it. It has a very deep smooth reflector, 2 modes (a HIGH high and a LOW low). It is a heavy and versatile handfull of nice olive colored metal. Beautiful tight beam. I think it has the best overall quality of any UF I have. It feels like a weapon - a hammer!

:tsk::buddies:

 

[kramer5150]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

I am on my second UltraFire A10. My sister wanted the first one, so I bought a second. I never really liked it though, until I tried it with a 14500. That makes it into a whole new flashlight! No more AA's for it.

For the money, I actually prefer the A30. But I would buy another AKOray K-106 with a 14500 first of all.

I just got an UltraFire C308 (Q5) that I am very impressed with. I have not seen any mention of it anywhere, but I really like it. It has a very deep smooth reflector, 2 modes (a HIGH high and a LOW low). It is a heavy and versatile handfull of nice olive colored metal. Beautiful tight beam. I think it has the best overall quality of any UF I have. It feels like a weapon - a hammer!

:tsk::buddies:

That ones caught my attention too, simple H/L modes and the reflector looks very deep indeed.

Can you post some beam pics? perhaps compare it to another light?

IMHO the last few releases from ultrafire have looked really good, and don't seem to be as clunky-junky as the previous releases.

thanks!!
:thumbsup:

 

[Black Rose]

Re: BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part 9)

IMHO the last few releases from ultrafire have looked really good, and don't seem to be as clunky-junky as the previous releases.

I wonder if they would apply their new QC to some of their old designs.

I'm considering getting a WF-501B with a K2 drop-in for $9.90 just to have a cheap beater host. I've seen your review on that model so know it's good and bad points.