BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part XI)
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superpila
Newly Enlightened
I don't own the regular C3, I only have the C3 SS but right now I borrowed it to a friend, so I can't shoot pictures of the two together. As far as I remember, besides being made of SS, the Ultrafire C3 SS's body is pretty similar, if not identical to the Aurora.
As soon as I get it back I'll run a comparison.
the alu c3 and the aurora look the same but the ss c3 is different
for external looks, quality and feel the ss q5 5 mode c3 is the best dx aa size you can get
but for the program ability the akoray is a great buy too
really depends what you want it for
bling always wins for me so i preffer the c3 ss q5 5 mode
for external looks, quality and feel the ss q5 5 mode c3 is the best dx aa size you can get
but for the program ability the akoray is a great buy too
really depends what you want it for
bling always wins for me so i preffer the c3 ss q5 5 mode
Noob question - TrustFire P7-F16 SSC P7-WC
Hi Guys,
i just ordered my first "high powered" flashlight.
TrustFire P7-F16 SSC P7-WC 3-Mode 900-Lumen.
Now i've read that the reflector is strucutured and i was wondering if there
is a descent replacement on the market to have it clear like a mirror.
Maybe some of you have already tried modding this flashlight and can refer to some linke on this forum.
I already used the search function but with not much success apart from the thread where someone compares it to the wf-600 and some other fl's.
Every hint, advice, secret link etc... will be very much appreciated.
Greetz
Poco
Hi Guys,
i just ordered my first "high powered" flashlight.
TrustFire P7-F16 SSC P7-WC 3-Mode 900-Lumen.
Now i've read that the reflector is strucutured and i was wondering if there
is a descent replacement on the market to have it clear like a mirror.
Maybe some of you have already tried modding this flashlight and can refer to some linke on this forum.
I already used the search function but with not much success apart from the thread where someone compares it to the wf-600 and some other fl's.
Every hint, advice, secret link etc... will be very much appreciated.
Greetz
Poco
Re: Noob question - TrustFire P7-F16 SSC P7-WC
Not the right spot for this (custom B/S/T) - you should have posted this in the Flashlights / LEDs section.
Suggest you change title to "Closed" and put this in right area
Not the right spot for this (custom B/S/T) - you should have posted this in the Flashlights / LEDs section.
Suggest you change title to "Closed" and put this in right area
LEDninja
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Noob question - TrustFire P7-F16 SSC P7-WC
A P7 has 4 dies in it. A smooth reflector creates a lot of artifacts in the beam. That is why everybody went to the textured reflector for the P7/MCE lights.
It ain't broke. Don't fix it.
I ended up replacing the smooth reflector in my P7 Mag with a DX textured reflector to smooth out the beam.
When I focussed to the tightest spot possible with the smooth reflector I got a really nasty donut hole in the beam.
A P7 has 4 dies in it. A smooth reflector creates a lot of artifacts in the beam. That is why everybody went to the textured reflector for the P7/MCE lights.
It ain't broke. Don't fix it.
I ended up replacing the smooth reflector in my P7 Mag with a DX textured reflector to smooth out the beam.
When I focussed to the tightest spot possible with the smooth reflector I got a really nasty donut hole in the beam.
Re: Akoray K106
I just received my K106 and have a few questions.
1. When programming how do you ensure that you have reached the brightest setting?
2. How do you remove the clip?
3.Where can I buy nonrechargeable 14500 batteries?
4.I just read about the Akoray AK16. DX & KAI don't show it. Is it available somewhere? Also, does it actually take either cr123 or AA?
I just received my K106 and have a few questions.
1. When programming how do you ensure that you have reached the brightest setting?
2. How do you remove the clip?
3.Where can I buy nonrechargeable 14500 batteries?
4.I just read about the Akoray AK16. DX & KAI don't show it. Is it available somewhere? Also, does it actually take either cr123 or AA?
Re: Akoray AK-16 better than K-106
I understand from former posts that the AK-16 can use NiMH, correct?
The description page on KD is a bit confusing:
On the other hand, can someone confirm that the only current source for the three-mode K-106 is KD? Although people seem to be getting the 3-mode from DX despite the description saying 6-mode, there is a risk of getting the 6-mode and being denied an exchange because this is what the description says.
I understand from former posts that the AK-16 can use NiMH, correct?
The description page on KD is a bit confusing:
- The text says: "Batteries: Alkaline battery, Ni-MH battery, Li-ion battery
Working Voltage: DC 0.7-4.5V" - The table says: "Voltage input range: (3.7V~4.2V)"
On the other hand, can someone confirm that the only current source for the three-mode K-106 is KD? Although people seem to be getting the 3-mode from DX despite the description saying 6-mode, there is a risk of getting the 6-mode and being denied an exchange because this is what the description says.
MerkurMan
Newly Enlightened
Re: Akoray K106
As for the AK-16, I'm pretty sure it's KD sku 6671, but I could be wrong, as I don't yet own this unit. And yes, it does accept both 16340s/CR123A and 14500/AA in the same body tube without modification. :thumbsup:
Hope that helps!
edit: corrected sku #
To ensure you're at 100%, wait until the light reaches max brightness on the ramp-up, and as soon as it turns off, tap the switch. Works for me.
Remove the tailcap (actually, you just need to loosen it) by pushing the tail end of the light in to a mousepad, or similar soft, grippy surface, and turning the body of the light counterclockwise. After you get it loose, you can slip off the clip, and re-tighten the tailcap.
I'm not sure if they make 3V 14500 primaries. You can get 1.7v lithium AA primaries at most hardware/drug stores, or from one of the CPF supporting online dealers.
As for the AK-16, I'm pretty sure it's KD sku 6671, but I could be wrong, as I don't yet own this unit. And yes, it does accept both 16340s/CR123A and 14500/AA in the same body tube without modification. :thumbsup:
Hope that helps!
edit: corrected sku #
Last edited:
Wiggle
Flashlight Enthusiast
Using a budget flashlight body as a waterproof battery case
I plan to build very compact bike lights (one white front light, and one rear red light), using a very small optic (elliptical beam) in the smallest possible aluminium casing. As I am unable to find a waterproof battery case for one or two AAs, I thought I might use a budget flashlight for this: removing the LED, and replacing the front lens with a plastic or aluminium disc with a hole to let the power wires go out. I would then have a very compact, waterproof battery case, with an integrated switch.
I need this flashlight to be decently waterproof (i.e. rainproof), and the head should be easy to open so that I can remove the LED.
I could buy one of the very cheap 1xAA light on DX "Other LED lights" page, like e.g. sku.5383 or sku.5384.
Or I could use a better one like Ultrafire C3, a Romisen, or another <$15 AA light, and use the LED for my bike light project.
Any suggestion for such a flashlight (easily removable head and LED), preferably 1 or 2 modes (no strobe or beacon modes), and >3h runtime (I'd like the LED to be driven around 100 mA to limit the need for heatsinking and long runtime)?
I plan to build very compact bike lights (one white front light, and one rear red light), using a very small optic (elliptical beam) in the smallest possible aluminium casing. As I am unable to find a waterproof battery case for one or two AAs, I thought I might use a budget flashlight for this: removing the LED, and replacing the front lens with a plastic or aluminium disc with a hole to let the power wires go out. I would then have a very compact, waterproof battery case, with an integrated switch.
I need this flashlight to be decently waterproof (i.e. rainproof), and the head should be easy to open so that I can remove the LED.
I could buy one of the very cheap 1xAA light on DX "Other LED lights" page, like e.g. sku.5383 or sku.5384.
Or I could use a better one like Ultrafire C3, a Romisen, or another <$15 AA light, and use the LED for my bike light project.
Any suggestion for such a flashlight (easily removable head and LED), preferably 1 or 2 modes (no strobe or beacon modes), and >3h runtime (I'd like the LED to be driven around 100 mA to limit the need for heatsinking and long runtime)?
bessiebenny
Enlightened
Sorry. Think I made a mistake. Thanks for letting me know.
It's supposed to be 6 stars. I'll fix it later. =)
(for value, 3 programmable modes, AA/14500 usage etc)
old4570
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ultrafire 501A
Well it's taken a long time , but at last I have a Ultrafire 501A .
I put my XPE pill in it , as it has a nice low current draw , just right for 1 x CR123A use .. Build quality is very nice .
Pictured next to a 501B [ 18650 or 2 x CR123A ]
Counterfeit or not , I just wanted one , and Im so glad I did , a very nice P60 host , and is just a little smaller than a Solarforce L2Mini .
Anodizing = Very nice and even , Glosy
Threads = Clean and smooth
Wrist strap = Yes and usable
Tail clicky - Reverse - Very nice - not overly sensitive or mushy .
P60 drop in = dx/sku.25369
Over all , very nice ...
:thumbsup:
Well it's taken a long time , but at last I have a Ultrafire 501A .
I put my XPE pill in it , as it has a nice low current draw , just right for 1 x CR123A use .. Build quality is very nice .
Pictured next to a 501B [ 18650 or 2 x CR123A ]
Counterfeit or not , I just wanted one , and Im so glad I did , a very nice P60 host , and is just a little smaller than a Solarforce L2Mini .
Anodizing = Very nice and even , Glosy
Threads = Clean and smooth
Wrist strap = Yes and usable
Tail clicky - Reverse - Very nice - not overly sensitive or mushy .
P60 drop in = dx/sku.25369
Over all , very nice ...
:thumbsup:
I haven't seen that one before, it looks quite interesting. I'm coming to prefer single cell lights these days, particularly with RCR123's.
A question about the counterfeit though: I remember you saying you bought an Ultrafire that Ultrafire don't even make, which leads to the conclusion there are 'fake' Ultrafires. I was then told there are no genuine Ultrafires and it's just a brand name anyone can use. It isn't really important to me with these ***fire brands if they're fake or not as long as they're okay, but I'm curious how you come to the conclusion there are genuine and counterfeit Ultrafires.
old4570
Flashlight Enthusiast
superpila
Newly Enlightened
that looks like a tipical DX head. In this case, most probably the PCB is not pressed, but screwed. If you remove those two soldering points, you should/could find two holes and in any case you should be able to unscrew it.Guys, what's the best approach to (non-destructively) removing a press-fit driver pcb like this one, please?
BurlyEd
Newly Enlightened
I have used 1 or 2 map pins stuck in the tiny holes to unscrew the driver from UF C3 and other heads. I have also used a tiny screwdriver to push sideways on the solder pad to help rotate the disc.Guys, what's the best approach to (non-destructively) removing a press-fit driver pcb like this one, please?
Your mileage may vary.
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