Best RCR123A for a SF C2 LED?

[bpbauer7]

I'm new at this and have been doing a lot of reading on here lately and I think I have either learned a few things, or just confused myself even more! Anyways, I just bought a Surefire C2 LED and was considering getting rechargeable CR123A to save money in the long run because I have realized that CR123A's can get quite expensive if you're going through alot of em. Any suggestions on the best rechargeables to buy? Or is it best to just sack up and buy CR123A's? What will the difference be in output and runtime between the two? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[FLT MEDIC]

Bought Tenergy RCR123A 3.0v 900maH protected Li-Ion batteries from Battery Junction and they worked flawlessly the past 2 years in my stock Gladius. These have a longer life than my unprotected RCR123As. The only downside is that there's no warning it will shut off due to its low voltage protection circuit in flashlights with no low voltage warning like my Ultrafire WF-502B so I always carry spare RCR123A batteries.

Don't have any light meter but there's no noticeable difference in brightness between my friend's Gladius on primary CR123As and my Gladius on Tenergy 3.0v 900 maH RCR123As. Instead of at least 1 hour run time on CR123A primary batteries, my Tenergy RCR123As give 40 minutes run time on maximum output.

 

[Yoda4561]

I think the single "best" route for this is to use a 17670 protected battery, and a module that regulates at that voltage, like the M30 or one of the single cell dereelight modules. You can run the P60L with a single 17670 but the regulation will only be around 1 hour with lots of declining light. A pair of 16340's should last around 1.5 hours before the batteries either cut off via protection, or are drained completely.

16340= cr123a size, 17670= 2xcr123a size Most around here will recommend AW rechargable batteries and a pila IBC charger.

 

[bpbauer7]

Thanks for the help. What are AWs? If I decide to go with any of those two, will there be any major difference in size that would create any noise due to the batteries rattling around inside? Ive heard a few complaints about that with the lower end flashlights. Thanks.

 

[mdocod]

I agree with Yoda's suggestion about a 17670 and a dedicated 3.7V module. The M30 or DereeLight options will blow the P60L out of the water for output, and runtime isn't too bad on a 17670 (little over an hour).

Eric

 

[mr.snakeman]

Thanks for the help. What are AWs? If I decide to go with any of those two, will there be any major difference in size that would create any noise due to the batteries rattling around inside? Ive heard a few complaints about that with the lower end flashlights. Thanks.

Check out AWs threads on the CPF Markeplace, dealers section. He has different threads for the different types of batteries he sells. I use two different types of RCR123A batteries from him (His black protected for those lights that can take 3.7v. and his LiFPO4 blue cells in my lights that can`t) and have only good things to say about them and him. :twothumbs

 

[Kestrel]

I think the single "best" route for this is to use a 17670 protected battery, and a module that regulates at that voltage, like the M30 or one of the single cell dereelight modules. You can run the P60L with a single 17670 but the regulation will only be around 1 hour with lots of declining light. A pair of 16340's should last around 1.5 hours before the batteries either cut off via protection, or are drained completely.

16340= cr123a size, 17670= 2xcr123a size Most around here will recommend AW rechargable batteries and a pila IBC charger.

Multiple posters here have experienced a regulated runtime of 1h 20 minutes with a 17670 and a Malkoff M30. ~240 lumens for this long of a duration blows the P60L away, and the single cell eliminates voltage balancing issues. Purchase two cells = 1 spare. Fantastic way to go.:twothumbs

 

[bpbauer7]

Thanks for all the help guys! Once I get some cash together, I may be making a purchase. Thanks again!