Best Tap Water Filter On Demand System?

There are differing opinions on the reuse of plastic bottles.

The most concern is when using disposable bottles over and over, the plastic weakens and leaches various nasty compounds in to what ever is in the bottle.

The most recent news about this is the BPA (Bisphenol A) free bottles all over the place if you want an example to get some hard facts from.

What it boils down to is this:
-plastic can leach chemicals no matter how safe we say it is or what its made from.

So in general, do not reuse disposable plastic bottles, and if you are a more safe than sorry guy, select a glass or metal container that is more chemically stable for your main vessel.

Personally the best solution for me is a nice vacuum insulated "thermos".
Not only can you get them with glass or metal inside, but they maintain the temp of your drink and can withstand the average accidental drop on the floor.

Sorry, I posted my previous at nearly the same time as you. Honestly, I wouldn't mind metal, but I like having a couple liters/half gallon filled and next to me in three locations, and I think metal is going to be too unwieldy if you could even find it in 1/2 gallon/2-2.5L sizes.

It seems the HDPE is considered safe, and UN approved...but I'm not certain about that. What do you think about that article I posted in previous discussing it at the end?
 
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Personally, i don't do plastics, even HDPE, when i have a choice.
This is because plastics are everywhere and in everything, so the less contact with what i actually consume the better.

Keep in mind the bottles with BPA were also "Safe" until someone with deep pockets made the study happen to prove they are not.

This is common with many compounds and even food additives, if they dont outright kill you they are listed as "ok" until someone proves it does kill you or make you grow an extra hand

Current Examples:
artificial sweetener

Past examples:
lead pipes

With that said:

For metal you have several choices.
The "thermos's" come in many sizes up to a gallon or so i have seen.
But if that is not to you liking look for wine carafes and you should find a good container

(i didnt read your link yet but i will)
 
I think if plastic water bottles are exposed to heat, they leach chemicals into the water faster. I suppose that's just common sense, but it makes more difference than one would think. Anyone who has ever been to the Maldives will testify that the bottled water there tastes revolting - it has a VERY strong flavor of plastic. It sits around on pallets in the hot sun for weeks on end before being shipped from the depot to the islands that need it.
 
Yeah, I'm sure plastic is not ideal, but it is so practical and lightweight. I have not found reasonably priced SS canisters in 1.5 to 2.5 Liter sizes. I've been re-using this same set of 3L Poland Springs jugs I got at the grocery 2-3 years ago. Fill them from the RO Filter spigot and keep them handy for pouring into drinking tumblers....lol....which are also blue plastic. Maybe they will find enough plastic remnants in my system at autopsy that they could make a bottle, and use it to write a research paper. LOL!
 
Another update. Installed my RO system in 8/2009, changed 4 filters 9/2010, & 7/2011. Just changed 4 filters again 3/2012 and am going to go 1.5 years for next change + 3 years for next RO filter change. Took 30 mins, no problems, no leaks. Continues to work great with same fantastic tasting water. Highly recommend.
 
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Another update. Installed my RO system in 8/2009, changed 4 filters 9/2010, & 7/2011. Just changed 4 filters again 3/2012 and am going to go 1.5 years for next change + 3 years for next RO filter change. Took 30 mins, no problems, no leaks. Continues to work great with same fantastic tasting water. Highly recommend.

To get the most out of your filters, you should invest in a TDS metre. RO water should be from 5ppm to 25ppm... once your water is over 50ppm you should change your filter.
 
Just checked readings. Tap water is 69.8ppm & RO water 5.8ppm. Great to have this objective tool, thanks again.
 
Just checked readings. Tap water is 69.8ppm & RO water 5.8ppm. Great to have this objective tool, thanks again.

Sounds like your city is getting its water from a spring, my tap water is 330ppm(due to all the chloramines)... my RO water is 5ppm... you have pretty clean water to begin with. Have you looked into the PH Alkaline final stage to bring your PH up from 6.0 to 7.0? Because water is a bit acidic at 6.0 which is great for some plants but the human body is made for PH 7.0
 
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I measured that with a pH meter, and it is at 7.0 pH coming into the house. I think the water source is a protected reservoir.
 
I'll be darned if you aren't correct. I used my swimming pool red test drops, and it is just like you say. Now looking for that final stage setup you mention.


Edit: Here I found it at the place I got the earlier setup and replacement filters. That one uses calcium and magnesium, but I don't want it to go up to a pH of 9-10, so I found this other pH quick connect cartridge after speaking with them about it. This model uses Calcium and normally bumps it up to 7.0 and lasts about a year with my size system, and does not add any significant mineral taste.

I'll check the TDS reading before and after, assuming this will bump that up also. Then I could accordingly raise the scale you mentioned earlier to guide maximum filter life.

Thanks again for your expertise and help!
 
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I'll be darned if you aren't correct. I used my swimming pool red test drops, and it is just like you say. Now looking for that final stage setup you mention.


Edit: Here I found it at the place I got the earlier setup and replacement filters. That one uses calcium and magnesium, but I don't want it to go up to a pH of 9-10, so I found this other pH quick connect cartridge after speaking with them about it. This model uses Calcium and normally bumps it up to 7.0 and lasts about a year with my size system, and does not add any significant mineral taste.

I'll check the TDS reading before and after, assuming this will bump that up also. Then I could accordingly raise the scale you mentioned earlier to guide maximum filter life.

Thanks again for your expertise and help!

This might be better http://www.maxwaterflow.com/11-X-2-...LINE-FAR-INFRARED-RE-MINERALIZATION-_p_2.html its a three stage final stage.
 
Hmmm.....that is a confusing web page listing. I'm having a hard time understanding the "far-infrared" and unlikely health claims.
 
Just wanted to give another year's update using this RO sytem, and other than simple annual filter changes & replacing the pH increasing cartridge every 8 months, everything continues to work perfectly. Clean, pure tasting water always available. Can't recommend this setup enough.
 
Thanks for the update Lux. We had an RO on our drinking water for a number of years, but it was a bit more complicated to deal with than yours. The water hardness here is very high ( over 400 IIRC) and there is a lot of sediment in the water, somewhat depending on if the supply is coming from snow melt vs ground water that day.

The city switched from Cl2 to chloramines, which are much harder to remove, but still essential since many RO filters will not tolerate bleach, Cl2, chloramines and many other disinfectants. Interestingly, they used to tolerate this better, but the modern ones do not, so I tend to disinfect with vinegar, which is still not really recommended by the filter people, but it works.

In our case, we had to first run the water through a water softener to lower the hardness to viable levels, but this of course is really an ion exchange, so the Mg, etc are exchanged for Na ions - so the water actually became slightly salty tasting. The high chloramine count also put a lot of load on the charcoal pre-filter.

The region had a ban on our town discharging water softener salt brine into the drain, so we were forced for many years to use a "service" that delivered pre-charged ion-exchange resin canisters to the house every week. At $ 50 / month it was not breaking the bank, but certainly annoying. Eventually, someone sued and we were allowed to use normal softeners, but my wife had trouble with the water from the one we owned, so eventually we stopped using it, and the RO then also went away.

Now we use a large in-line filter that contains activated charcoal, filtration, etc. It is supposed to last for years, but in fact it clogs up in less than 3 months here. My next task is to install a coarse sediment filter to help extend the life of the drinking water filter.

I know that a lot of people are against bottled water for various reasons, but nearly all of them filter the water (which is more than my city does, and yes I have visited the water plant), most use RO and activated charcoal, and then inject ozone into the bottle to not only "kill" but actually destroy organics and pathogens. It is actually pretty decent stuff, and we keep some around as part of our emergency preparedness supplies. My kids like to use it as a drink for school and walking, which is a heck of a lot more healthy than soda.

If only cities would use ozone as part of their general water purification process, many issues would be eliminated, in fact all of the ones that forced cities to move to chloramines in the first place. If they used it on the sewage and rain water dischage, even more problems could be prevented.
 
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Wow, Harry, that is a major set of obstacles. Almost seems like I would go for a 5 gal water jug delivery service in your scenario--even if it ended up being more expensive.

How is the ozone used on a practical basis? Why not use a UV product for disinfectant?
 
Our community (Broken Arrow) just started adding chloramines now. Wish there were a decent shower filter to remove this junk.
 
Wow, Harry, that is a major set of obstacles. Almost seems like I would go for a 5 gal water jug delivery service in your scenario--even if it ended up being more expensive.

How is the ozone used on a practical basis? Why not use a UV product for disinfectant?

Hi Lux, sorry for the delayed reply. Ozone can be bubbled through the water to reduce organics, kill bacteria, reduce odors, etc. Some people use it in swimming pools and spas instead of, or in addition to Cl based antiseptics.

UV light is also a good disinfectant. The most common approach is to use a lamp with two significant wavelengths, one which produces ozone ( O3) or sometimes just an activated O2 molecule ( O2*) or something like that. The other wavelength causes the ozone to decay, so the effect is quite rapid, but also, very short range. I don't remember the exact distance, but I think it is a few inches and the turbidity of the water is a factor.

For now we are making it work with a combination of bottled water for backup and mobile drinks, and sediment / activated carbon filtration for at home. Beer also works. 🙂
 
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