Thank you for the compliments fellas.
Are these the correct LDO regulators?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by the "correct" regulators. :thinking: There are different rated regulators that can be used. The two LDO regulators used on Flupics are not the same. The other Flupics use different regulators as well. I choose to use the regulators that I did for the specified output according to it's application that this LE will be used in.
..physical space and battery current limitations come into play.
on the double stack he made there, it's already pulling a hefty 2.0 amps from an R123. probably wouldnt get a worthwile benefit from increasing the stack unless it was going into a larger body, larger battery 18650 and better heatsinking in the light. at that point, you might as well just use a triflupic unmodified.
MWClint is right on the money. :thumbsup: I could have gone higher but choose not to. With this configuration I don't recommend using it with a R123. It will decrease the life of the cell. 2.0A/2.5A is good enough & as MWClint said, heatsinking will be an issue. This one will be used with a 17670 so it should be fine. Too many people these days want the absolute highest numbers but in reality it's not practical. I see far too many people wanting to stuff P7s in the smallest 1 cell lights running as high as possible. I admit I too was one of these people & did so with my Arc LS P7. But I see it differently now, I
have overheated P7s & li-ions in small lights. Not cool & in the case of the li-ion it can be dangerous! I rather use the P7 in bigger lights that can handle the heat & I rather overdrive a P7 rather than run a P7 way underdriven. BTW, a Triflupic would not fit an Aleph LE anyway.
The 2.0 amp burst rate is only for momentary use I think. That's a good fit for the small light darkzero was modding. The level 10 is only 1.6 amps and I want more power.
If a three chip stack works, Id get 2.4 amps continuous and 3.0 amps burst. It sounds like the perfect setup for a P7.
If you could do a 2 chip mod, then why not 3? Because I never thought of it. Really I was asking if 3 amps might burn the trace on that tiny PC board. Only one way to find out I guess. That and I was waiting for darkzero to confirm what chips he used.
I've noticed there's confusion about the levels of the Flupic. I too was confused about max & burst. There's level 10 (max) & then there's max brightness which is often referred to as burst. They call it burst cause that's what this level is recommended for use, momentary. Of course you can use it in this mode constant if you wanted to. It's pretty much running it like direct drive. Burst output varies (as it does here, 2.0A & 2.5A+) depending on what the battery can draw & how low the vf of the emitter is. Level 10 is the output of the regulators. I'm not an electronics guru but this is what I have concluded with my results. If I am wrong about something I'm always happy to wait for the bus driver to pick me up & take me to school.
You could always add a third set of regulators. Won't fit in an Aleph LE though. I wouldn't recommend it though cause I too don't think the traces will handle it. This one was getting pretty hot while holding it during testing. I fully potted the board in the can. If you try it, please let us know if it goes
after a while.
If you would be using it where space is not limited then you might as well just use the Triflupic in parallel as MWclint said. If you want even higher numbers you could change the regulators out on the Triflupic. But many of us have used the Triflupic & seeing the results, IMO it's perfectly fine as it is. You could always add more regulators but again, if the battery can't handle the draw & the host can't handle the heat there's really no point.
Many have PMd me asking about the LDO regulators so I'll just post the info here:
Standard & 0.77" Flupic:
-PJFQ: Ti TPS73601 (400ma)
-PJEQ: Ti TPS73201 (250ma)
SSC P4 "1.0A Burst" Flupic & TriFlupic (x3 of course):
-PWYQ: Ti TPS73101 (150ma)
-PJFQ: (400ma)
10.5mm Flupic:
-PJFQ: (400ma)
:wave: