Bicycle Light Setup Redesign

[lightinghelp]

I have some questions about the new bicycle lighting setup I am planning.

My current system from my old bike is two 20w Philips Energy Advantage IR Halogen MR16 Lamps. Philips claimed that these had the same output as regular 35w halogens when I bought them. So, in front I had 40-70w of power depending on how accurate Philips' claim is.

In the rear I ran a 40 Led 8" Oval Stop/Tail light that is similar to this light ( http://www.vehiclelight.com/985988.html ) This functioned as a tail light and got brighter when the momentary switch in my brake lever closed during braking. I will keep this light and brake switch in the new setup.

I also had front and rear Led turn signals. I plan to keep these in the new setup as well.

I powered the lights with this 9ah 12v battery. ( http://www.batteryinternational.com...-b-b-f2.html?gclid=CIuP0aq73pwCFRPyDAodDxnSKQ )

I want to upgrade my front lights to Led lights. I saw the Solstice Solo lights from Vision X on these forums. They seem like a good deal and since they run at 12v I can use them in my existing system. Also, since they use 10w I should be able to get a smaller battery.

I have a few questions:

1.) Do I need 1 or 2 of these lights to beat my current setup? If one will do that would be great since that would require an even smaller battery and be cheaper but I can get two if necessary.

2.) What is the best connector to use for vehicle lighting and battery charging. I have seen some people use XLR connections. WOuld that be a good choice? I used 2 pin connectors before like these. ( http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...ONDUCTOR-WATERPROOF-CONNECTOR-AWG-10/-/1.html )

3.) Are there better Led or other lights that I should consider for the front lights?

4.) Is there anything that I am overlooking in my redesign? ( I can handle all the mounting fabrication needed. )

If you have any tips for making wiring harnesses please let me know. Hopefully this time the wiring harness will be much cleaner.

Thank you in advance.

 

[hit4six]

.....I want to upgrade my front lights to Led lights.

It seems like the issue isn't that you need more light to see by, otherwise there are 30W bulbs, and at 14-16v things get brighter, whiter and more efficient.

I saw the Solstice Solo lights from Vision X on these forums. They seem like a good deal and since they run at 12v I can use them in my existing system. Also, since they use 10w I should be able to get a smaller battery.

I have a few questions:

1.) Do I need 1 or 2 of these lights to beat my current setup? If one will do that would be great since that would require an even smaller battery and be cheaper but I can get two if necessary.

I remember reading in Philips publicity material for these lamps of 'efficiency of up to 24 lumens per watt' (at 12v) so at a guess each 20w lamp in your setup should be 400-500 lumens or more, depending on the running voltage of your battery.

2.) What is the best connector to use for vehicle lighting and battery charging. I have seen some people use XLR connections. WOuld that be a good choice? I used 2 pin connectors before like these. ( http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...WG-10/-/1.html )

3.) Are there better Led or other lights that I should consider for the front lights?

If you are buying a new battery anyway you'll have more choices such as flashlight based systems which could be more cost effective.

4.) Is there anything that I am overlooking in my redesign? ( I can handle all the mounting fabrication needed. )

Based on your experiences so far, what beam pattern are you after?

 

[Cemoi]

This functioned as a tail light and got brighter when the momentary switch in my brake lever closed during braking. I will keep this light and brake switch in the new setup.

Do you have pictures of your brake switch setup?

 

[lightinghelp]

It seems like the issue isn't that you need more light to see by

Correct, I can see quite well with the 2 20w Philips halogens. I am interested in getting the same or more lighting bang for a smaller battery buck.

I remember reading in Philips publicity material for these lamps of 'efficiency of up to 24 lumens per watt' (at 12v) so at a guess each 20w lamp in your setup should be 400-500 lumens or more

The Vision X lights claim 900 lumens, but from reading the forums here it seams that a more realistic figure is 650-700. Am I correct or is it closer to 900?

In any event, at 10 watts for 650 lumens, the Solstice Solo lights are 65 lumens per watt vs. the Philips 24 lumens per watt. That seems like more light bang for a smaller battery buck.

If you are buying a new battery anyway you'll have more choices such as flashlight based systems which could be more cost effective.

Thank you for the suggestion of flashlight setups. I am considering getting a flashlight with rechargeable batteries that I could use in parking lots and other places I don't want to blow out pedestrians. It would also be a back up light. A dynamo LED would be the best backup and daytime running light but my current bike does not have a front dynamo wheel.

For my main lights I want to keep a central battery pack that controls all the lights. It is easier for me to maintain.

Based on your experiences so far, what beam pattern are you after?

I had to 8 degree beams from Philips. These seem to work well, meaning that cars wait for me to pass before pulling out at night when they would not during the day.

I am thinking about getting the Euro beam from Vision X. I cannot tell the beam degrees from the Vision X materials. I must be missing something. I liked the 8 degree beams because I could see obstacles, ride fast and not blind oncoming traffic. If I only had one 8 degree it would not be enough. Therefore I thought the Euro beam would be the best bet for one light and possibly the spot if two lights are used.

Do you have pictures of your brake switch setup?

I recently moved and took all my lights off my old bike. I will post pictures when my new setup is finished. The should be soon since it is starting to get dark again.

I can explain how I did it. I did not want to reinvent the wheel so I searched for a ready made product first. Motorcycles use a hydraulic switch but electric scooters do not. For about $10 you can buy a ready made brake lever with switch in place. I didn't like the brake lever that I ordered so I ripped the switch out and then drilled a hole for it in my bike's lever. This worked great. This time I might just buy the momentary switch to save money.

Brake lever - http://www.electricscooterparts.com/levers.html

Momentary Switch - http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-159/MOMENTARY-N.O.-MINI-SWITCH/1.html

 

[Cemoi]

I ripped the switch out and then drilled a hole for it in my bike's lever. This worked great. This time I might just buy the momentary switch to save money.

Thanks for the explanation.
This means that you have to run a cable all the way from your brake lever to your tail light.
In this thread I understand that the OP suggests to put the switch on or near the rear brake itself, hence minimizing the length of the control cable (see post #12).

 

[yellow]

1. halogen lights are still as bright as before, they only need more energy

2. the white light of the led make them seem brighter than they are, fools the unenlighted very easy

3. there is pretty nothing that is similar to an 8 degree beam (usually halogen bike lights use something around 15-20 deg.), so I think, TWO 20 Watt 8 deg. is overkill.

That lights - obviously running with quad-leds - sure are brutally bright, but in general a wide beam.
Very bright around the bike - direct spill - and a bright "beam" which is 3-4 times the diameter as normal single led lights.
They might compete with a 20 deg. 20 W halogen (and seem brighter, because that white light tricks our eyes), but, imho, have no chance against an 8 deg. "pencil beam". Especially when You are used to that beam reach and appreciate it.

 

[zen bicycle]

I don't see how they can be claiming 900 lumen's as the Edison KLC8 is only rated at 170 lumen's at a max of 700ma.

Unless you are talking bout another visionX besides this one
http://www.visionxusa.com/led/s4100/

 

[lightinghelp]

I don't see how they can be claiming 900 lumen's as the Edison KLC8 is only rated at 170 lumen's at a max of 700ma.

Unless you are talking bout another visionX besides this one
http://www.visionxusa.com/led/s4100/

I am talking about this Solstice Solo Lite seen here: http://www.visionxoffroad.com/led/s1100/

 

[lightinghelp]

2. the white light of the led make them seem brighter than they are, fools the unenlighted very easy

So even though the lumen rating is higher they are not higher? People have compared these to 55w Halogens.

3. there is pretty nothing that is similar to an 8 degree beam (usually halogen bike lights use something around 15-20 deg.)

The light can come in a spot version. I am not sure of the beam degree. here is a link: http://www.visionxoffroad.com/led/s1100/

They might compete with a 20 deg. 20 W halogen (and seem brighter, because that white light tricks our eyes), but, imho, have no chance against an 8 deg. "pencil beam". Especially when You are used to that beam reach and appreciate it.

Even though the lights are rated at a higher lumen output and come in a spot, you still think they will not compete with the lights I have now?

I hoped that they would be comparable even if I had to use two because it would cut my battery needs in half.

 

[hit4six]

I don't see how they can be claiming 900 lumen's as the Edison KLC8 is only rated at 170 lumen's at a max of 700ma.

I think vision X were being lazy quoting the KLC8 figures in this table. As I intepretet it the KLc8 represent 'led technology' as a whole in contrast to HID or halogen, not the Led in this particular product.

Originally Posted by yellow
2. the white light of the led make them seem brighter than they are, fools the unenlighted very easy
So even though the lumen rating is higher they are not higher? People have compared these to 55w Halogens.

If the lumen rating is equal you will see just as well (if all else is equal, and comparing led to halogen there is typically a big difference in CRI, so all else isn't equal). However, the way eyes react to cooler color temperature light means that with an equal lumen rating, you may subjectively perceive that there is more 'brightness' with the led.

Even though the lights are rated at a higher lumen output and come in a spot, you still think they will not compete with the lights I have now?

spot could mean 12degree, or even if it means 8degree, it may not be as focussed as an mr16 halogen. Ask the manufacturer for more beamshots or diagrams of the beam intensity? If they want your money they should be willing to help you.

For more 500lumen+ led options, see the beamshots under discussion topic This V's P7 Module? on dx site http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26127 and search elsewhere on CPF. I expect no led bike light will be that narrow.

Is this making you want to just get a lighter battery for your current system?

good luck

 

[nwmtnbiker]

You might consider a micro lever switch for your brake light, too. I use one for my brake light and have it zip-tied to my rear brake cable--it is automatically triggered when I hit the rear brake. I also use 4 large amber LED strobes (22 LEDs per unit) for front and back turn signals. I already had 2 good battery powered headlights (dual mode, high beam and low beam) and a bright battery-powered tail light installed before I added my turn signals and brake lights. I like the fact that the LEDs are low-powered; at present I run each system (turn signals and brake lights) off separate 9V batteries.

 

[Cemoi]

You might consider a micro lever switch for your brake light, too. I use one for my brake light and have it zip-tied to my rear brake cable

Pictures please?

I run each system (turn signals and brake lights) off separate 9V batteries.

What kind of 9V batteries do you use, how are they waterproofed and attached to your bike?

 

[Linger]

the 10gage all weather cable linked in the first post is huge.
I have the 15gage, same store/same style, and accompanying 15amp in-line switch, and it takes some work to make the connection to 20gauge wiring not look funny.

 

[lightinghelp]

I ordered a euro beam light from Vision X. I will post a beam comaprison to my current halogens when I get a chance.

 

[hit4six]

how did it go with your new light?