Borofloat glass lens

MidKnight

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
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18
I would like to hear from anyone that has replaced there lens with a Borofloat glass lens. Im thinking about changing Polycarbonate lens in my streamlight SL20X LED. Would like to know how strong these are against breakage, and any general comments between the glass and Polycarbonate windows...
 
What is the UCL mean. and are these basically the same the Borofloat glass ones?
 
UCL are ultra clear lenses that let 97-99% of the light through. They aren't as tough as the Borofloat lenses.
 
Borofloat is a bit tougher than UCL. Borofloat is a harder glass than the UCL, so it may be a bit more durable. However, UCL has more light transmittance. The lens above should be a more than adequate replacement for the plastic stock lens since it won't scratch up to ruin the beam, it will provide more light transmission, handle the heat of extended runtimes better and it's got a rubber gasket around the edges to help with shock if you drop the light.

I have one in my SL-20 and am happy with it. Huge improvement over the plastic one.

Of course any time you have glass it may crack if you drop it onto a hard surface. Just keep the plastic one around in the unlikely event of this happening until you can get a new one.
 
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Borofloat is a boro-silicate glass, which means it is more break-resistant due to thermal shock. For a stock Streamlight, I'd probably get the standard UCL due to its better light transmittance. If you have one of those hot-rod 100W lamps (that go from "cold" to "red hot" in a few seconds), then go for the Borofloat.
 
MidNight, I think the UCL would be ideal for that light. The temperatures are low enough that you really don't need the borofloat.
 
Borofloat is an manufactur name, real name is borosilikat, the special of borofloat is high temerature and chemical resistance and not optical, you can take normal window- glass.
 
Just for reference, I had some of the same questions, and made a point to compare the UCL vs. AR B270 vs. Borofloat brands of glass lens, and can find no practical difference in light transmission on a white wall with identical light/battery setups side by side, using multiple incandescent bulbs. Just to convince myself, I swapped the lenses with each light and looked again in case the bulbs/voltage was slightly off.

With the huge benefit of the cheaper Boros not cracking as easily, and tremendous heat resistance, I have never bought another UCL or the more expensive B270 since. I have at least 50 Boros, and never had one crack, even with higher 100+Watt overdriven lights.
 
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