Borofloat VS UCL

[IcantC]

Ok so I have a 3D mag that I am upgrading. This will be used for bump in the dark at home and left in trunk for work when needed to search large areas. Reason for Mag is available everywhere(in case I damage body or head), D cells available everywhere, reliable, etc.

Anyways moving along, I was modding this light and purchased a Malkoff drop in and wanted to upgrade the crappy lens.

I have been reading the difference between UCL and Borofloat. I know the LED will not create that much heat, but was getting the Borofloat due to it being stronger than the UCL.

I rather get the UCL as I read people notice a difference when going from the Borofloat to UCL. But then I read people who have broken numerous UCL's and gone to BF lens.

My question, for a light that is not a shelf queen and will see use, will need to be reliable, which should I get?

Thanks in advance

 

[js]

The borofloat is more durable and resists massive IR heat better than UCL. But that's not an issue in your case.

If it were me, I'd get the borofloat, or even a scratch resistant plastic lens--one of the good ones from FLL.com. I have one of those installed in my main go-to TL because the Gen 4 LA doesn't melt plastic lenses, and because it is plenty clear enough and way more durable. Of course if I were running anything more powerful I would go to the Shock Isolated UCL. But anyway . . .

People make a lot of noise about small differences, IMO. Pyrex or Borofloat is plenty clear enough and definitely more shock and break resistant, although I admit that the UCL's are stunningly clear when perfectly clean. It's like they aren't even there.

 

[da.gee]

I was truly amazed at how clear the UCL was to the naked eye. I cannot speak to its durability but if you want clear it defines ultraclear IMO.

 

[Scattergun]

What JS said.
Borofloat is pretty clear for most applications, but it´s main advantage is durability. UCL is like invisible... but a little more fragile.

 

[IcantC]

Thanks so from what I am getting, if I want something that is durable go for the Borofloat.

 

[jzmtl]

I have UCL in my 3D mag that I keep in my jeep. Haven't broken it yet, but I don't use it whack stuff, and haven't dropped it yet.

 

[CLHC]

Exactly what js said above in his post. I've had a couple of UCLs that did break in my Maglites, and have since replaced them with Borofloats. So far, so good.

 

[IcantC]

Thanks! To those that replaced UCL with the BF, is diminished light output noticable to the eye?

 

[IcantC]

Ok thanks all for helping me decide, I went with the Boro lens.

Also found this thread while researching
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2194681

To be more specific and to quote

Just for reference, I had some of the same questions, and made a point to compare the UCL vs. AR B270 vs. Borofloat brands of glass lens, and can find no practical difference in light transmission on a white wall with identical light/battery setups side by side, using multiple incandescent bulbs. Just to convince myself, I swapped the lenses with each light and looked again in case the bulbs/voltage was slightly off.

With the huge benefit of the cheaper Boros not cracking as easily, and tremendous heat resistance, I have never bought another UCL or the more expensive B270 since. I have at least 50 Boros, and never had one crack, even with higher 100+Watt overdriven lights.

So yes I ordered the Borofloat