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Brass Pacific

Virgo

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
161
Location
Central Texas
I just received a brass Pacific with the AAA, 2 X AAA, and AA bodies from my main man Steven at tacticalsuppy.com. This light is my first exposure to Peak, and I'm impressed! I purchased this light for my grandmother, who has failing vision, but still likes to read quite a bit. I also purchased the bodies that use common batteries so that she can replace them easily and inexpensively. I'm impressed enough that I would now like to get a couple for myself. The brass is built like a tank and has some heft to it; no experience with the HA or SS models yet. Runtime is also very impressive. Made in the USA, great customer service from what I've seen, and priced very reasonably (IMO). Here are a couple of pics:
DSC00421.jpg


DSC00420.jpg
 
I've got the same light and bodies. It will take on a beautiful patina with use. To me, the new brass lights are like a new pair of sneakers. I have to break them in and get some wear on them. :naughty:
 
The Pacific is really nice with pocket bodies in AA and CR2 form. The CR2 is small and drops neatly in a jeans coin pocket.

I liked them so much that I now have 2 in brass - a high power and an ultra.

For regular slacks-I have a Mckinley in HA with pocket body.
 
I've been handling them some, and they are already beginning to form a patina:) .

I would really like to try the CR2 and the 2 other tiny battery (I forget their # designation) bodies when I get my own.
Is there any easy way to tell which "power" model mine is? I didn't designate when ordering. I have noticed an extremely long runtime considering the power source.
 
I really like the Pacific as well. I have three sets with all of the battery packs, two of the sets are brass and they have a very nice feel.

Virgo, you can tell the power level by taking the head off and looking at the battery contact. You will see an imprint like S or H that will let you know which one you have.
 
Lebkuecher said:
Virgo, you can tell the power level by taking the head off and looking at the battery contact. You will see an imprint like S or H that will let you know which one you have.
Thanks! There is a little solder blob covering part of it, but it's definitely an H (which would explain the long runtime:) ). If I understand correctly, from lowest output, longest runtime to highest output, shortest runtime, the order is: H= high, S= super, and U= ultra? I like the fact she will get the most out of her batteries, but I might have to get an ultra for myself. Or go with the CPF motto and get one of each.:laughing:
 
I could be wrong here, but I thought that the super-ultra was brighter than the ultra.
 
arty said:
I could be wrong here, but I thought that the super-ultra was brighter than the ultra.

I may be wrong (and probably am) but I don't think they have a "Super Ultra" offering. More likely any S would signify Snow, as in Snow White LED color. The only imprints I think you will find on the potted LE will be:

1. (nothing) = regular power
2. H = high power (the best all-around selection, IMO)
3. U = ultra power (brighter than H but potentially shorter LED life)

BTW, yes, the brass is the best Peak material, IMO. The threads become silky smooth with use.
 
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I don't think that LED life is a problem, since the light is a 3W luxeon. I asked Curt about this when I called, and he said that the light is way underdriven. It is a different story for the 5 mm snow LEDs.

RMSK sells a Baltic super-ultra, and the Peak catalog lists a couple of power levels above the high power for the Pacific. The RMSK site lists a 300 cp output for this light and a very short (30 min) runtime.

My Pacific brass pocket body was missing the foam washer at the bottom, and so I had some battery rattle. I tried an Arc washer, since I had some lying around. It seemed to work fine.

I like the Pacifics. They put out a decent amount of light, and the CR2 body is only 6 cm long - about 2 3/8".
 
They do indeed stamp the Super's "S" as I have 2 Super Ultra Pacifics.
 
I've been doing some runtime tests (just based on my visual observations) with the different battery/body configurations and must say that the runtimes are freakishly long. I've only used standard alkalines. My model is definitely underdriven and produces very little to no heat. The reflector makes for a terrific combination beam with impressive throw and useful flood. I really think it's a great choice for what it will be used for. Great light PEAK!:goodjob:

I'm gonna have to get me one of the souped-up versions:grin2:
 
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