Breakdown of Luxeon III Binning?

[Reno]

I'm pretty sure the first digit is related to brightness at it's rated voltage.

The next two digits are related to color quality, the higher the second digit is in the alphabet the better, right? Clueless about the third... seems you want a lower (A,B) letter there.

Fourth digit is related to vF, which as far as I can tell, is the amount of current the emitter will take before cooking off.
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Can anyone give me the definite skinny on this? How close am I to being a knowledgeable lux3 shopper?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[ResQTech]

Here's a great site:
http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm

 

[Reno]

Thx Eric

*studying*

*studying*

 

[gadget_lover]

A quick tutorial;

There are 3 character bin numbers and 4 character bin "numbers".

The first is the amount of light generated at the rated CURRENT (not voltage). Lower is dimmer.

The second of three or second and third of four is the TINT. You buy a white, but what tint of white? The 4 digit bin has a more restrictive range, so will frequently be better. The 3 digit bin will allow a very green tint to use the same designation as a hint of green. A W0 bin is just about pure white.

The last letter designates the nominal voltage range (Vf) at which the LED will draw the rated current. A 1 watt LED is rated to use 350ma, so a Vf of 3.5 volts means that it should pull 350ma when the voltage is at 3.5 volts. If the voltage is less, it will draw less current, making it dimmer. If it is higher than 3.5 volts, it will draw more current making it brighter but risking early burn-out.

The charts listed at http://home.comcast.net/~theledguy/bin_codes/index.htm are invaluable. It can help you avoid buying a "white" led with a tint of 5 when you raelly want to impress your friends. It can also re-assure you that the Luxeon III star you bought stamped TWAK will really be bright and white when driven at 700 to 1000ma.

Daniel