Brightness Isn't Everything

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A recurring problem is that sometimes we mistake price for our expectations of brightness. If a light is expensive, and it is not maximum brightness, is it worth it? Why or why not? I always hear detractors talking about various lights being "way too dim for the price," and I will not name anything specific because I don't want the thread to go in that direction, but in terms of some of the very high end lights there are always going to be a few detractors who say that the light isn't worth it because it isn't cranking out 500 lumens OTF.

This really bothers me -- haven't we, as a group, learned more than that from experience? That lumens is not the only measure of worth of a flashlight?

The worth of a flashlight is when you turn it on it works.Period.

Everything else is a bonus.IMO.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I still get a thrill from using a super-bright light, but I also get a thrill from using a low-lumen light that I know will run forever. I get a thrill from using just the right amount of light for the job at hand. I get the same satisfaction from using any great quality tool that is the right tool for the job. It makes as much sense to use an impact wrench to open a watch case as it does to use an M6 (I wish I had one) to make a late night toilet run.

Love this thread. :twothumbs
 
I was like beep, beeping dogs and man I really wish I had my flashlight and damn how do those interesting guys from CPF walk around in the middle of the night with .0000000000001 lumen.
That's why I use a High CRI modded Novatac. Sometimes there is a little light pollution and I need a higher mode.
Fireflies in a jar!
That's a light that is guaranteed not to work after you drop it one time. Maybe it needs a lanyard.
 
That's why I use a High CRI modded Novatac. Sometimes there is a little light pollution and I need a higher mode.

+1 On the light pollution factor. Our uses are so varied, white wall hunting excluded, that it is difficult to find the optimum brightness and beam profile for every situation and just because you and or I haven't found a use for a 500 Lumen light, it doesn't mean that a use doesn't exist. While I believe that up to 100 lumens in general is enough for most tasks, there are times, especially while on my friends farm that I want to spot that possible mountain lion that may be lurking off in the distance waiting to pounce on their sheep or Border Collies and in that situation, I would love a 500+ Lumen light.

Basically, the question is too subjective without a starting point of reference in lumens. Last weekend after quite a few beers, I decided to cut through the Presidio in San Francisco to get home and I wanted to take a shortcut through the woods where there was no path and my Peak 3Led Matterhorn 7-10Lumens? was okay but not enough but my pocket carribbean was much better at blazing a trail in my drunken but illuminated stupor so brighter is better in that case, especially when drinking copious amounts of Guinness.:drunk:
 
Brightness is not, efficiency is for me. I wanna make sure that convertor board/LED is making as much light for as long as it can til the battery is toast
 
As I always say, it's not brightness but rather runtime that makes the difference between having light or not.

User interface is another major factor. This includes not only operation, but also size and handling characteristics, and those will dictate whether or not you'll be carrying and reaching for the the light. A cumbersome flashlight that doesn't fit comfortably in your pocket and hand, and takes some fumbling to activate as desired will simply not be used.

Quality and reliability have a lot to do with the use intended. If we're talking about a home-garage-shop light, they may not matter much. On the other hand, to hard users this may be the most important factor...

Beam quality and tint's importance are also very variable according to each user.
 
To an extent maximum brightness is still important to me.

Along with a high maximum brightness I MUST have multi-mode.

It's not fun to play flashlight tag when the kids know you can hit all of them without having to point at them. It's good to know you can hit all of them to end the game when you get tired.
 
My needs for a bright light are so few and far between, that I've gotten rid of all but one incan, and that one is rarely used. On the occasions I use it, none of my other lights would do, but like I said, it's rare.
I keep one spare lamp, and one spare pair of 18650s for it.

Thinking of building a new McCapsule for my Longbow Micra some time in the future. It would be used around the house at night, in the cab of my truck, and as a main light if I ever get to go camping again.
The plan is for one of those heavily stippled Khatod flood reflectors, and a high CRI P4 running at 89mA. I hope it isn't too bright.
 
There is reliablility, cost to feed it, pretty or neat, etc., but the number one consideration is that the light is suitability for whatever you are doing -- and that varies.

For me, that usually means low light level and easy to get out of my poket; although I prefer using the Dorcy AAA (41-4234), I usually use my Dorcy AA (41-4239) since it more cost effective. I grab the little AAA Rayovac Keychain (BRSLEDKEY-BMF) when I'm taking food for the cats in the garage because it's got a chain attached which I can hold in my mouth. The little ones are easy to hold, even with something else in my hand, and Dorcy's push button in back make it easy to flash on for a moment.

Yet, when I want LIGHT then the bright ones are needed -- that's when there's something going down outside and I go to see what -- and it better work then, without having to fiddle with it, too!. I'd rather carry several lights around, each for a purpose, than one I have to adjust -- and be in the dark if it didn't work or I dropped it. (Yeah -- I have a cellar full of different tools too, with many special purpose ones.) The most important accessory is a sweatshirt with deep pockets.

Cost is important for me, but run time is less so because I have no problem with carrying a few extra cells with me or having them around (I'd have to reload a gun or camera too.)

One last important feature of any light is that's it's shiny new so I'm not tired playing with it! :twothumbs
 
Been using an A19 with a Cree GDuP. At night 99% of the time I use the 1st two levels, rarely use high.
 
Even if my Mag85 was working (the batteries are stuck inside) I would still be nervous using it around my new downtown Portland,OR apartment. Far too bright for walking in downtown Portland.
 
The switch comes out the front of a Mag pretty easy with just pulling the switch cover off and loosening one allen screw. After you do that, the mag body is just a metal tube. Should be fairly easy to get the batteries out.

You can search on here or google for how to disassemble a mag.
 
Thanks for the info. But back on topic,I've seen my way out of a partial power outage(only part of Portland State's campus was out) at work with nothing more than my trusty Arc AA. 3.3 lumens seems insanely bright when you're in complete darkness.
 
"Re: Brightness Isn't Everything"

Agreed. IMO the real problem is that brightness IS NEARLY EVERYTHING when it comes to marketing lights to the masses. In the real world relatively few who buy flashlights are interested in anything but replacing the dark with something close to what they have the most experience with -- the floody, bright, white from the sun. For the masses there are no finer points to light -- they either have it or they don't. If they don't have it they just want their light to be bright, that's all. They are only interested in replacing the dark. Nothing else is important to them.

That's fine. There's nothing wrong with that. My problem with it is that the manufacturers have to cater to them because they are such a huge group. Going against that group is financially risky.

I have probably spent at least 300 times as much time looking for and researching Very Dim lights than I have spent looking for all other genres combined. Sometimes I think that it's amazing that there are any dim lights out there for sale at all.

Note: when I say dim I probably mean something that is incomprehensibly dim to most. I mean something dimmer than the old HDS EDCs could even be adjusted to at their lowest possible setting. I mean something along the lines of the lower settings of Photon Freedoms and the Rigel MIL Starlights. These lights sell (thankfully) but they are part of a very small group of lights whose output may be adjusted to such a low level. Most who have not owned and experimented with them firsthand at their lower output levels will fail to grasp what they are capable of.
 
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