Build Log: '43' 7xXP-G

matthewm

matthewm

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Working on the rear section.

Trying to finalize connectors, I have the choice of either

Brad Harrisons M8 Connectors, which are larger and slighly cheaper



4R3P00A27C300 $9.87 Plug
503006A10M020 $10.29 Cable


or Binder-USA M5 conectors

Part # 79 3107 32 04 - $13.78
Part # 09 3112 01 04 - $10.94



http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=28724

http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=28334

When I offer this as a housing shell kit, I will have to have these as an extra optional charge for the cable and plug assembly. Due to the high cost

so far I like the smaller ones, much better. But Either will fit... Or the other option is to leave no hole in the rear section and leave it to the final user to work out power stuff
 
matthewm

matthewm

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I just tested this with a small reed switch and a small rare earth magnet. I had to pull the magnet at least 8 mm between on and off. You might get it better by using a different reed switch / magnet.

Do you mean it switches in a small region 8mm away from it? or you need to move it that far all the time?

Also how easy is it to get it the menu options, change settings etc...
 
M

Mick

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If you approach the reed switch with the magnet and it activates at 12 mm, then you have to retract the magnet to 20 mm to get it to turn off. It would be very difficult to program a *Flex driver with this much hysteresis but I won't say impossible. :grin2:
 
matthewm

matthewm

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If you approach the reed switch with the magnet and it activates at 12 mm, then you have to retract the magnet to 20 mm to get it to turn off. It would be very difficult to program a *Flex driver with this much hysteresis but I won't say impossible. :grin2:

Alright thanks for that, scrap that idea then, omron switch it is.
 
matthewm

matthewm

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Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
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Location
Sydney, Australia
Working on the rear section.

Trying to finalize connectors, I have the choice of either

Brad Harrisons M8 Connectors, which are larger and slighly cheaper



4R3P00A27C300 $9.87 Plug
503006A10M020 $10.29 Cable


or Binder-USA M5 conectors

Part # 79 3107 32 04 - $13.78
Part # 09 3112 01 04 - $10.94



http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=28724

http://www.binder-usa.com/psearch_detail.php?pid=28334

When I offer this as a housing shell kit, I will have to have these as an extra optional charge for the cable and plug assembly. Due to the high cost

so far I like the smaller ones, much better. But Either will fit... Or the other option is to leave no hole in the rear section and leave it to the final user to work out power stuff


Does anyone know of any alternatives that are cheaper?
 
matthewm

matthewm

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As I do, I wanted to test the possibility of turning this into a torch (plus I got sick of looking for connectors). Shown below is some models of one possibility (4*18650 in 2P2S) for a total of 1.5 hours runtime on high.

At 110mm long it is still possible to mount this on handlebars.

Finish will be electro polished then bright dip anodized.

I am unsure if I should leave the batteries exposed or to create a fully sealed compartment... Also, where is a reliable and cheap source of battery springs?








Renders

 
Last edited:
matthewm

matthewm

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Slightly confused with current draw. If the batteries were all in parallel at 3.7v the current draw would be approx 7345mA at 1000mA drive. Does this imply that each battery will need to supply 7345mA (which is unreasonably high...) or you divide this by four (1836mA draw per cell) which would be ok for a 18650...

So in short, my question is can I run all four cells in parallel? or do I need a 2S2P configuration?
 
Last edited:
ifor powell

ifor powell

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With a Maxflex and 4 18650 cells and a 7 up series board the cells have to be in series 4S. So you will have a nominal 14.8V. Max curent on high will still be getting high for the maxflex when the cells are running low eg up to 2.5A. The maxflex needs to have good heatsinking.
 
matthewm

matthewm

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Revision 2 of the battery shell. This has 6*18650 cells in 2S3P config (if that makes sense...) i.e. 7.4v and 7800mah.

Fully sealed design. (at least IP67, possibly higher, the switch is the weakest link)




I've also been considering the possibility of 4*26500 cells in series, but that would be a long light...
 
Last edited:
P

paulr

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You're going to use loose cells? I wonder if there is an integrated computer or camcorder or cordless tool pack that you could use, or even one of those RC lipo packs.
 
matthewm

matthewm

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You're going to use loose cells? I wonder if there is an integrated computer or camcorder or cordless tool pack that you could use, or even one of those RC lipo packs.

18650 or 26500 cells are THE standard... I wont be using anything else in the battery pack.

Plus I don't want the extra hassle of having to make a pack.
 
Last edited:
P

paulr

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The point of integrated packs is that they have all the charge balancing, voltage monitoring, thermal protection etc. built in. What is the charging strategy for the loose cells? Are you going to have multiple charge contacts on the light? Note that the integrated li ion packs usually have 18650's inside.
 
matthewm

matthewm

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Found a nice cable gland that I will most likely be using in M12 size.

Has anyone used or seen these before, the only thing I a worried about is how they cope with sideways cable motion.

http://www.rutab.com/web/Rutaseal_Products_2_1/TRS_-_RUTASEAL%C2%AE_EPDM_Metric_RAL9005-107.aspx

ProductCatalogBinaryLoader.axd





http://www.newark.com/pro-power/1458233/grommet-m12-grey-pk50/dp/95M7842
 
Last edited:
matthewm

matthewm

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Example of the rutaseal. In reality the outer face will be stretched outwards in a wider circle, covering most of the rear raised section.

I am getting a few of the seals in the meantime, to test them.



I also figured out I could create a 3d pdf file, I though I would post it up.

http://rapidshare.com/files/364353947/main.PDF.html
 
Last edited:
H

h22

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I would definatly be interested in one or two when the design is finalised!
 

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