Build Log: Double Triple XP-G R5
- Thread starter sosemot728
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Matt I got my Maxflex pre-wired so my build is a bit different. But gland is in untrimmed (warmed it to help flex). Thanks for the guide.
T.
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sosemot728
Enlightened
I would remove the existing wires and start from scratch. There is very little room in the case.
sosemot728
Enlightened
Neither! They are held secure by the glass lens (which is pressing down on the optic).
I am going to try with the Maxflex wired. I am pretty sure it can work. I did a test 'dry' run and worked out if I solder the bridge to one led PCB, then position the led PCB's, run the switch wires through, then solder all in place, then pull back the switch (after sealing) all that's left is to solder the power wires.
Hey if I fail I can always start again and remove the wires.
Was it tricky to solder the wires to the led PCB? The last time I did a build I had holes. Did you have to flux first?
sosemot728
Enlightened
I did not use flux, I think it is fairly straight forward to solder.
The problem is, that once the delrin cap is pressed in place with the switch, it is practically impossible to remove!
IT LIVES!
My GILI-6 is 95% done - just now.
All complete bar the 2xlens.
Wow what a tricky build for me. I managed to get the build done with the MaxFles pre-wired. I installed the switch first. Then power, then fixed the MaxFlex, then leds.
Only issues I created for myself were:
Too much thermal paste behind one of the led PCB's. Six cotton buds to clean up....
Soldering the leds in place was easier than I expected. And the switch was simple. I even managed two bits of heat sync to shield (with silicone).
My wiring around the MaxFlex looked tidy before I tightened the back cover.
Power up is fine - MaxFlex is in duo-mode. On dusk it is bright on high. The switch is not as tactile as I'd like - I might have got a bit of silicone in there somehow? That said it works perfectly and I am confident is sealed!!!
It is a small button but easy to locate and function.
I can't wait for my lens to arrive so I can fully seal.
I'll post photo's later.
CA.
My GILI-6 is 95% done - just now.
All complete bar the 2xlens.
Wow what a tricky build for me. I managed to get the build done with the MaxFles pre-wired. I installed the switch first. Then power, then fixed the MaxFlex, then leds.
Only issues I created for myself were:
Too much thermal paste behind one of the led PCB's. Six cotton buds to clean up....
Soldering the leds in place was easier than I expected. And the switch was simple. I even managed two bits of heat sync to shield (with silicone).
My wiring around the MaxFlex looked tidy before I tightened the back cover.
Power up is fine - MaxFlex is in duo-mode. On dusk it is bright on high. The switch is not as tactile as I'd like - I might have got a bit of silicone in there somehow? That said it works perfectly and I am confident is sealed!!!
It is a small button but easy to locate and function.
I can't wait for my lens to arrive so I can fully seal.
I'll post photo's later.
CA.
Just did a back-2-back with my Exposure MaxxD (960 lumens). The GILI-6 blows it away. On 1000mA so another level to go! I won't go higher until I set the thermal cut.
I just changed to bike mode on the MaxFlex - but are still in duo-mode. (a sticking switch made this a pain).
The switch is better now. A bit of lube did the trick.
I took a photo of the 'guts' before I sealed the back. The front is still loose (no lens). I'll post pics soon.
CA.:thumbsup:
I just changed to bike mode on the MaxFlex - but are still in duo-mode. (a sticking switch made this a pain).
The switch is better now. A bit of lube did the trick.
I took a photo of the 'guts' before I sealed the back. The front is still loose (no lens). I'll post pics soon.
CA.:thumbsup:
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Ok, now I am getting excited. I just spent some time lighting the backyard alongside my Exposure MaxxD at 960 lumens and another light I have at just under 1000 lumens (but more spot than the MaxxD). Wow is all I can say. Wow. The GILI-6 is impressive.
I have the two 'spot' optics (10507) - glad I didn't go any broader. They are perfect.
The MaxxD just got shunted to backup bar light. The 1000 Lumen (RadXL) will stay on my helmet - but I think the GILI on my bars is going to overpower it.
Anyway - there comments for the bicycle forum.
As for the build. I'll post a more detailed run-down now I am back in from the cold (about 5deg c outside now).
I have the two 'spot' optics (10507) - glad I didn't go any broader. They are perfect.
The MaxxD just got shunted to backup bar light. The 1000 Lumen (RadXL) will stay on my helmet - but I think the GILI on my bars is going to overpower it.
Anyway - there comments for the bicycle forum.
As for the build. I'll post a more detailed run-down now I am back in from the cold (about 5deg c outside now).
Coldass GILI-6 build notes:
1: fitted gland and power cable (I didn't need to trim to get in, I just heated the gland in some boiling water to soften). I epoxied the gland and cable per Matt's instructions.
2. positioned MaxFlex (pre-wired) and ran wires to led and switch. Ran two small lengths of heat shrink on the switch wires prior to solder.
3. Tilted MaxFlex to push switch wires further toward switch cavity.
4. Trimmed switch tabs and soldered to wires.
5. Slid heat shrink and use lighter to shrink.
6. Positioned switch (after a quick multimeter test), in cavity, and in some silicone per Matt's guide. Didn't install press in switch cover/holder.
7. Soldered a bridge wire for series wiring to one led PCB
8. Applied too much thermal paste to first led PCB...........^%$^^#%#@#$#@!!!
9. Soldered first PCB while in place (in this case to ground) - excess paste making this harder than it should have been as I had to clean a bit off first as it crept over the sides of the PCB as I applied some pressure (note - don't use too much paste... in fairness I used too much paste because the first bit of paste in my paste tube was a bit runny)
10. Applied paste (right amount this time) on second led PCB, positioned, and trimmed + and the - bridge wire (after sizing bridge wire per Matt's instructions). Soldered final PCB wires while in place. This second PCB was easier than the first as the wires were held a the other end.
11. checked the rear wiring was still ok - all looked good - flipped MaxFlex and applied thermal tape then fixed it into its final position.
12. Soldered power wires (joined two wires in 'telegraphic twist' with heat shrink - under no strain). Checked three times.
13. Connected battery with clips as the light has no connector yet - test run - all ok - phew!
14. Installed rear cover. It fit nicely and found resistance from the o-ring and not the wires. Applied locktite (blue) and tightened
15. Fitted optics and o-rings (sans lens for now). Installed front lens cover - (no locktite yet)
16. sized power cable (long enough to fit battery on downtube) - fitted connector (3-pin mini din style like my three batteries) - actually this was painful as the power cable was a bit thick. I had to trim it carefully with a knife.
17. Power up - all ok! Now what mode is the MaxFlex in?
18. Pressed in switch cover (yes Matt, I left this until last know that you said it doesn't come out - easily).
19 . Switch binding! Crap!!!:devil::devil::devil:
20. Tried to program MaxFlex - sluggish switch PITA!:devil::devil::devil:
21. Little lube on switch - all ok! BIG Cheer.
22. Set MaxFlex to 1000mA max for now.
All seems great. 🙂
Concerns:
23. Crack a 'Fat Yak' pale ale.:thumbsup:
1: fitted gland and power cable (I didn't need to trim to get in, I just heated the gland in some boiling water to soften). I epoxied the gland and cable per Matt's instructions.
2. positioned MaxFlex (pre-wired) and ran wires to led and switch. Ran two small lengths of heat shrink on the switch wires prior to solder.
3. Tilted MaxFlex to push switch wires further toward switch cavity.
4. Trimmed switch tabs and soldered to wires.
5. Slid heat shrink and use lighter to shrink.
6. Positioned switch (after a quick multimeter test), in cavity, and in some silicone per Matt's guide. Didn't install press in switch cover/holder.
7. Soldered a bridge wire for series wiring to one led PCB
8. Applied too much thermal paste to first led PCB...........^%$^^#%#@#$#@!!!
9. Soldered first PCB while in place (in this case to ground) - excess paste making this harder than it should have been as I had to clean a bit off first as it crept over the sides of the PCB as I applied some pressure (note - don't use too much paste... in fairness I used too much paste because the first bit of paste in my paste tube was a bit runny)
10. Applied paste (right amount this time) on second led PCB, positioned, and trimmed + and the - bridge wire (after sizing bridge wire per Matt's instructions). Soldered final PCB wires while in place. This second PCB was easier than the first as the wires were held a the other end.
11. checked the rear wiring was still ok - all looked good - flipped MaxFlex and applied thermal tape then fixed it into its final position.
12. Soldered power wires (joined two wires in 'telegraphic twist' with heat shrink - under no strain). Checked three times.
13. Connected battery with clips as the light has no connector yet - test run - all ok - phew!
14. Installed rear cover. It fit nicely and found resistance from the o-ring and not the wires. Applied locktite (blue) and tightened
15. Fitted optics and o-rings (sans lens for now). Installed front lens cover - (no locktite yet)
16. sized power cable (long enough to fit battery on downtube) - fitted connector (3-pin mini din style like my three batteries) - actually this was painful as the power cable was a bit thick. I had to trim it carefully with a knife.
17. Power up - all ok! Now what mode is the MaxFlex in?
18. Pressed in switch cover (yes Matt, I left this until last know that you said it doesn't come out - easily).
19 . Switch binding! Crap!!!:devil::devil::devil:
20. Tried to program MaxFlex - sluggish switch PITA!:devil::devil::devil:
21. Little lube on switch - all ok! BIG Cheer.
22. Set MaxFlex to 1000mA max for now.
All seems great. 🙂
Concerns:
- My led PCB solder is not the best looking - but it seems to hold. I'll check it again when I install the lens.
- I hope the switch is water-proof. I don't plan on submersion so I guess it isn't a big concern and I don't plan on testing it. I might have been a bit hasty in waiting for the silicone to dry. I got it all over the place. I think this silicone was causing the sluggish switch.
- I forgot how confusing programming a MaxFlex can be. Glad the switch is free now as it was a pain when it was sticking.
23. Crack a 'Fat Yak' pale ale.:thumbsup:
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sosemot728
Enlightened
Yeah you have to be careful to not get silicone, around the top of the switch, it is only really necessary to use silicone on the base of the switch and where the wires come through into the case to get a very good seal.
Overall, I have been very happy with this omron B3WN switch; its cheap, IP67 rated and durable. Plus I think it looks nicer than the giant 'jaycar' type version.
I'm glad you like it! 🙂
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sosemot728
Enlightened
Switch binding! Crap!!!:devil::devil::devil:
Little lube on switch - all ok! BIG Cheer.
If you haven't already put the switch cover on, I will mail you a new omron switch in the morning, use less silicone this time! 🙂
Yeah now the switch is free I really like it as well. I was worried I'd stuffed it.
I have the giant 'jaycar' IP67/8 rated switch on another build and it while functional - it takes some real estate. Your gland is better than most DIY.
I am sure I was too liberal with the sealant - getting some on the plunger when I pressed in the stopper (I even got sealant in the main chamber on the switch wire). The carrier for the lube cleared it - I used a tiny amount and wicked it away.
I achieved good isolation of the switch through heat shrink. So I guess I didn't even need the sealant.
I'd like to build my light again - I bet the second build would be very clean.
I am too lazy to post the few photo's of the build just yet. I might wait for the beamshots to post them in one go. I don't want to run it too hot tonight as I should let the sealant and epoxy dry.
Thanks Matt.
Nah - its good now (edit: really free and tactile) and the cover is set. Thanks.
sosemot728
Enlightened
Finally got around to taking beamshots!
These two taken at ISO 100, 6.0 sec @ f/4.0, 45 mm
and these two taken at ISO 3200, 1/5 sec @ f/5.0, 24 mm
Photo's were taken in the city so there is a large amount of ambient light, I have included the extra shot for reference
These two taken at ISO 100, 6.0 sec @ f/4.0, 45 mm
and these two taken at ISO 3200, 1/5 sec @ f/5.0, 24 mm
Photo's were taken in the city so there is a large amount of ambient light, I have included the extra shot for reference
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sosemot728
Enlightened
I know I said I wouldnt, but I did and I cant help myself.
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3562/frontlc.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7676/backqm.jpg
Reduced weight.
Reduced cost.
Reduced complexity.
http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3562/frontlc.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7676/backqm.jpg
Reduced weight.
Reduced cost.
Reduced complexity.
sosemot728
Enlightened
Any interest in a $99 kit price for gili-6 gen III?
